Redbird USA

Well you guys have convinced me to leave it alone for a while anyway. Thanks for all the input. It is not slipping at all even in high gear at about 3K rpm and nailing it. I just hate the feeling of it going so far out to engage. I guess I will just get use to it. Plus I already have to put one in the 85 Virago this winter, it is slipping and it's actually hard to leave from a stop at times without giving it too much throttle!!! Thanks again for all the input!!! :icon_thumbsup:

I had fluid change last September when I purchased the bike by a dealer that put two tires on for me, I didn't think it was that but wanted more clutch. My father-in-law who is a car mechanic suggested that. It did not change then. Any other ideas that it could be. The two track nights(only seven runs) I didn't think would have hurt it that bad either. But, after the 20 or so launches on back roads with no spinning, just fanning the clutch, then the track runs have definately pushed the lever out further before engaging?

I believe it needs replacing because the clutch lever is almost all the way out before it ingages. It is not slipping yet. Just in my past experience when the bike doesn't start rolling until clutch lever is almost all the way out, it is usually the clutch is almost gone. I have also had it on the drag strip twice in the last 6-7 weeks and made about 15-20 launches on the back roads before I went the last time. Just by doing that I can tell it has to be further out to start moving. Fanning the clutch eats them up, I was working on my 60' times. Let me know if I am incorrect in my thinking. Most of you guys know a lot more than I do on this situation. The bike is a stock 01, has 12,500 miles on it, it had 9500 when I bought it this time last year. Which it seemed like I had to go a ways with the clutch lever before rolling when I got it. I am pretty sure it was not raced before I bought it and I am satisfied with what I got out of it at the strip. Therefore, I am done on the strip. The Russell Long Day seat went back on and the Heli's and I am ready for some longer rides. :icon_thumbsup: Oh, I had heard before that there is no clutch adjustment on the BB's. Is this totally correct? :icon_doh:

Looks like I will be replacing my clutch this winter. I will probably stay with stock? Where is a good place to pick up what I need? Friction plates, flat plates and springs? All in input is appreciated!!! :icon_thumbsup:

I use PJ1 Chain Lube. It just seems to make a mess. What are some others that can be used and is this one of the better ones?

Anyone who has Jardine RT-1's on there Blackbird, how do they sound? With a street baffle are they deep or tingy? Do you feel any power increase?

I will take a set also if I can get 20 more HP.

Do you have a different one on a newer model? I have an 01 now(EFI). This same one worked fine on my 97. :icon_doh:

This one is supposed to break connection when pulled. However, it is working just the opposite. When it is pulled, the button comes out. At that point all power should be lost, not so, that is when I can fire it up. http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...905D1C46FA20911

The tether has only two terminals. A white wire coming off one and a black off the other.

I ordered a BikeMaster tether kill switch from Chaparral the other day. Going to the track to just see what I can run these days. I went to hook it up from my kill switch wiring harness. Used the black wire, like I did on my 97 BB. Wired each end of the switch to one side then the other of the black wire I cut. The problem was that when the button(tether) was off, the bike was running. When I put the button on it shut off. Tried switching the two wires from the kill switch around, same result. It seemed to be the correct wire because with the button off EFI came on, put the button on and no EFI and no power. Took the switch off, with my two blacks open, no start, connected them, she fired up??? Do I have a backwards switch or am I doing something wrong??? :icon_doh:

Yes, I can with no problem. I really don't feel any difference pulling it up on the centerstand and mine always goes on the center! I only weigh 155-160, I do work out & push ups daily. But, putting it on the center stand is more technique than muscling it up to me.

Just rotated my triangles. I can flat foot now, 5'8", 30 inseam! Going out for a ride to check the handling! WELL IMHO FOR ALL YOU GUYS THAT WOULD LIKE TO HAVE YOUR FEET A LITTLE FLATTER ON THE GROUND AT A STOP, ROTATE YOUR TRIANGLES. I had been thinking about lowering links. Just didn't like the way they work or really had full trust for them. I only rode about 25 miles after the change. But, it was dramatic. I actually felt like I had more control of the bike, maybe too much! It would be easy, for me, to overdrive or feel too confident when approaching turns and twists. I did not push it too much. I did, kind of, find out where the limits would be. It was not under nor over steering. Every turn was smooth. To me it actually felt better sitting back a little further and this slight bit lower. Before I always sat right on the tank. I was able to sit back a bit and it was real nice. NOW, I was not on a track or dragging my knees. If you are pushing that hard, DON'T LOWER IT. You will grind your pegs down to nothing and could get scraped up real good. It could also be worse. But, if you just like steady riding and sweeping turns and want to be a little more comfortable this is the fix. That is if you are probably 5'8" or less.

HOWEVER... there is a pretty simple fix. The XX has triangular shaped linkage plates which attach to the rear shock. If you remove them, you'll notice the distance between the bolt holes are not the same. By flipping the triangular pieces and reinstalling them you lower the rear of the bike by a hair over 1-inch. A vertically-challenged friend of mine with a Smuggler on a Blackbird simply rotated those triangular linkage plates and his inseam problem was solved. You can, of course, compensate by lowering the triple trees in the front or... not. He didn't readjust the triple trees and his bike handled great. I am 30" inseam also. This sounds like a great idea to get a bit lower. Will look into it this weekend. Thanks John! :icon_thumbsup:

Nice looking chrome. Just what I am looking to have done. Emailing XXXPLATING now! :icon_thumbsup: Thanks for the info Redd!

I would like to get my alternator cover chromed or polished. If not, would possibly by one. Anyone know where I could get this done? I live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland.

I am changing my gearing on my bird. Going to 18 tooth in the front and not sure how far down to go on rear. Who is the best manufacturing company for the sprockets and chain? Also any reco's on vendors? Thanks :icon_thumbsup:

Depends on how well the chain/sprockets are maintained. With steel sprockets and a good quality chain you should be able to get 20,000 miles.. How about on the stock? I have 11K on mine now with no sign of wear. Only had it since 9500, last September. I keep PJ1 on it. Thanks

Yeah, the one that I was looking at in the 30's was an aluminum alloy(Renthal). I am on my third Bird and have never kept one long enough to wear out the chain or sprockets. How long, on normal wear, do sprockets and a chain last? Probably will need to change chain if I go into the 30's. Just wasn't sure. I'd replace the chain but that's just me.. If your cheep you can just shorten it. I do tend to cut corners. But I would replace in this case, thanks!

Probably will need to change chain if I go into the 30's. Just wasn't sure.

I am going to change gearing before waiting for them to wear out. I am going to at least an 18 tooth on the front. Anyone heard of anybody going higher than that(18T)? How low can I go on the rear sprocket and stay with stock size chain? I would like to go to the high 30's. Like maybe 38, 39. My bike is crate stock so I want to make sure I don't go too far and hurt the top end. Also don't want to burn the clutch taking off. :icon_think: I would just like a smoother ride and better mpg, have heard on here that going with the 18 smooths the ride out considerably. Plus boost the gas mileage. I would appreciate any input! Thanks if advance for anyone who chimes in! :icon_thumbsup:

I have a Vista on my 01. Which is about the same as the NEP. It's a big help at times. Once it meshed with my throttle grip after the first couple of weeks of adjusting, I do not get any slipping anymore. It's a cheap fix that pays greatly! :icon_thumbsup:

Hey Joe! yeah i thought the speedometer would be close to exact, but i did do a reset of my speed'o healer, and riding beside my buddys bikes, my speedometer was 1 to 2 miles ahour faster then theres. maybe now i just hav'ta make sure i m at lease close with my calibrations. maybe i'll call speedo healer for more advise. but i do like this 18t ! beside's i also like to push the botton in a crowd of bikers showing what speed was reached, even if it is a little off!! they go damnn. When you went up to an 18 on the front, did you stay with the stock 45 tooth on the back? Or go down any on it? I was thinking of maybe going 18/43 when my stock wears out.

Any info on going with a 18 tooth front sprocket and dropping the rear to a 44 or even 42?

Appreciate all the info guys. So basically changing sprockets will do nothing, at all, unless I have the horseys to pull it through that? Thanks again, Mark