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Steering head bearing


Dotetcher

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Replacing the steering head bearings can be done without that tool. To replace mine I did buy a long drift (12") to tap out the old races and a 12" section of 1 1/4 ID pipe to tap in the lower stem race. An inexpensive hook wrench from a bicycle store also comes in handy.

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Replacing the steering head bearings can be done without that tool. To replace mine I did buy a long drift (12") to tap out the old races and a 12" section of 1 1/4 ID pipe to tap in the lower stem race. An inexpensive hook wrench from a bicycle store also comes in handy.

I'm gonna assume the hook wrench is what your using to replace the special tool? You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

Thanks

Skip

I made my own. Not pretty but it works :icon_biggrin:

Sounds good to me. I'd like to give that a try. Dimensions? Pictures? Instructions? Any xtra info around that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Skip

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Replacing the steering head bearings can be done without that tool. To replace mine I did buy a long drift (12") to tap out the old races and a 12" section of 1 1/4 ID pipe to tap in the lower stem race. An inexpensive hook wrench from a bicycle store also comes in handy.

I'm gonna assume the hook wrench is what your using to replace the special tool? You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

Thanks

Skip

I made my own. Not pretty but it works :icon_biggrin:

Sounds good to me. I'd like to give that a try. Dimensions? Pictures? Instructions? Any xtra info around that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Skip

You have been PM'ed

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Replacing the steering head bearings can be done without that tool. To replace mine I did buy a long drift (12") to tap out the old races and a 12" section of 1 1/4 ID pipe to tap in the lower stem race. An inexpensive hook wrench from a bicycle store also comes in handy.

I'm gonna assume the hook wrench is what your using to replace the special tool? You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

I think most bike stores sell a hook wrench like this. I've had mine so long I can't remember where I got it. I used the end with one claw (lower right).

HOOK-WRENCH-TOOL.jpg

Another useful tip it to put the new races and the steering stem in the freezer for a few hours before installing. The slight contraction will make things go together easier.

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Replacing the steering head bearings can be done without that tool. To replace mine I did buy a long drift (12") to tap out the old races and a 12" section of 1 1/4 ID pipe to tap in the lower stem race. An inexpensive hook wrench from a bicycle store also comes in handy.

I'm gonna assume the hook wrench is what your using to replace the special tool? You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

I think most bike stores sell a hook wrench like this. I've had mine so long I can't remember where I got it. I used the end with one claw (lower right).

HOOK-WRENCH-TOOL.jpg

Another useful tip it to put the new races and the steering stem in the freezer for a few hours before installing. The slight contraction will make things go together easier.

Yeah, I do that with my wheel bearings when I change them. Tnx

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Here's how to make the Steering stem scoket using a deep well 36mm socket

http://us.geocities.com/warren1m/steering.html

And this guy sells them for $39 shipping included

http://www.bigbikeauctions.com/auctiondetails.php?id=1224

Also here's a good discussion with pictures on how to change out the bearings

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31599

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are done!! Many thanks to Brett for the use of his tool. :icon_whistle: Unfortunatley my torque wrench is 3/8 inch drive not 1/2 :icon_frown: but I did it by feel and thigs seem to be just fine.

Bike handles much better. I think those were the original steering head bearings with almost 125000 miles on them. There was a little rust around both the top and bottom bearings. Defintely time for them to be changed.

Thanks again Brett!

Skip

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I did it by feel and thigs seem to be just fine.

Skip, that's what I did when I changed mine. For something like the steering head I'll go by feel over a specified torque everytime.

After a week or so my steering felt really light, so I came back and tightened the lock rings another 1/4 turn. It feels great now, but it took me a few days to get used to how light the steering felt with the tapered bearings. BTW, did you use tapered bearing or just a new set of OEM bearings?

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I did it by feel and thigs seem to be just fine.

Skip, that's what I did when I changed mine. For something like the steering head I'll go by feel over a specified torque everytime.

After a week or so my steering felt really light, so I came back and tightened the lock rings another 1/4 turn. It feels great now, but it took me a few days to get used to how light the steering felt with the tapered bearings. BTW, did you use tapered bearing or just a new set of OEM bearings?

Tapered from All Balls. The steering feels very solid. It seems to seek very imperceptably at low speeds but there is absolutely no headshake at any speed. I'm very happy with them so far.

Brett, I did not use the "other tool" you sent. Just used the 1 1/4 pipe method. Worked fine.

I'm gonna hang on to em for just a day or 2 if you don't mind just in case I need to readjust the bearings.

Thanks again.

Skip

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