bartonmd Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 -I'll start by saying that I've got a Datel DVM on top of my guage cluster, so I can always tell what my battery voltage is doing. -The bike's got 40k on it -I run heated gearin the winter, but not today. -When I run heated gear, I turn it off when I am in stop and go traffic, or when I stop at lights. It is only run on the highway. -The bike typically gets 40 miles per time I start it, mostly interstate. The fan only comes on once or twice a week when I get stuck in traffic. (so it's not like the R/R has led a very hard life) -I run the HID low beam, and high is almost never on unless I'm out in the country on my way to the interstate. It's never on at a stop. -Battery is an actual Yausa that I put in (3) months ago, and the month where we had the snow here, it was on a tender. I've gone to TN and back since then, though OK, so I'm going to work this morning, and when I get to the interstate, and get on, the voltage is sitting at a steady 14.2 and I'm rolling to work. Stays like this for the first 15-20 miles or so of my trip to work, then I look down and the guage and it's running a steady 12.6 volts, and drops to 12.5 when I touch the brakes... fuck. I'm thinking "ok, I"ve got the HID light and there is no stopping until I get to work (but I'll have to sit in traffic if I turn around), so I'll just get it to work on the battery and have my wife drive the caprice with the trailer to work (already hooked up from dirt biking on Sunday), and come pick us up after work... no problem" and then on a lark, I let off the gas and pull the clutch in. When the engine gets back to idle, the voltage goes up, and stays "normal" (14.2-14.3) the rest of the way to work, and acts normal at the couple stop lights I have between the interstate and work. Has anybody ever had this happen?? I thought about getting a spare R/R to keep in the trunk in case it goes out while I'm on a trip, but for the price of one spare Honda one, I can switch over to the R1 R/R and buy a spare R1 unit and still be money ahead of buying the single Honda unit... Thoughts? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Get out your wire brush and clean some contacts. Don't worry too much about the HID...it draws less current than the standard bulb. Just don't reach up in there to unplug it while its on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Your regulator is on it's way out I'd have to say. With the engine running at highway rpm, there is more of an electrical load then at idle( injectors, coil packs ). See is you can repeate the symptom while standing still, and have another volt meter on hand when you do it to verify. Let us know what you find & good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew69442 Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 -I'll start by saying that I've got a Datel DVM on top of my guage cluster, so I can always tell what my battery voltage is doing. -The bike's got 40k on it -I run heated gearin the winter, but not today. -When I run heated gear, I turn it off when I am in stop and go traffic, or when I stop at lights. It is only run on the highway. -The bike typically gets 40 miles per time I start it, mostly interstate. The fan only comes on once or twice a week when I get stuck in traffic. (so it's not like the R/R has led a very hard life) -I run the HID low beam, and high is almost never on unless I'm out in the country on my way to the interstate. It's never on at a stop. -Battery is an actual Yausa that I put in (3) months ago, and the month where we had the snow here, it was on a tender. I've gone to TN and back since then, though OK, so I'm going to work this morning, and when I get to the interstate, and get on, the voltage is sitting at a steady 14.2 and I'm rolling to work. Stays like this for the first 15-20 miles or so of my trip to work, then I look down and the guage and it's running a steady 12.6 volts, and drops to 12.5 when I touch the brakes... fuck. I'm thinking "ok, I"ve got the HID light and there is no stopping until I get to work (but I'll have to sit in traffic if I turn around), so I'll just get it to work on the battery and have my wife drive the caprice with the trailer to work (already hooked up from dirt biking on Sunday), and come pick us up after work... no problem" and then on a lark, I let off the gas and pull the clutch in. When the engine gets back to idle, the voltage goes up, and stays "normal" (14.2-14.3) the rest of the way to work, and acts normal at the couple stop lights I have between the interstate and work. Has anybody ever had this happen?? I thought about getting a spare R/R to keep in the trunk in case it goes out while I'm on a trip, but for the price of one spare Honda one, I can switch over to the R1 R/R and buy a spare R1 unit and still be money ahead of buying the single Honda unit... Thoughts? Thanks, Mike Start with checking all the V/R connections from point to point including all the battery and ground connections. If the V/R can't see the battery voltage due to a bad connection it will do this..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 Get out your wire brush and clean some contacts. Don't worry too much about the HID...it draws less current than the standard bulb. Just don't reach up in there to unplug it while its on..... I was thinking the contacts would be the first thing I'd do... Yeah, I just mentioned the HID, because I figured with it drawing less current, I could go longer before the battery died... I'm dreading doing this tonight, because to get the tail off, I've got to take the GIVI stuff off too... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I'm dreading doing this tonight, because to get the tail off, I've got to take the GIVI stuff off too... Mike I know what you mean, I have a NonFango top box and pannier rack on mine and had to remove it yesterday to test my RR, took me ~3/4hr to remove the rack , 5min to remove the rear cowl and 15min to test the RR etc, now it's sitting in bits in the shed while I wait for my new RR :icon_wall: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 Well... fuck. It happened again on the way home, except this time, here's what happened... 1. Voltage was up just fine at startup, possibly a little bit high, but only .1 to .2V higher than normal. 2. Started riding, and voltage was fine for the first ~1 mile 3. Voltage started to fluxuate when engine got warmed up, as I got close to the highway (1.5 miles) 4. Once I got onto the interstate, the voltage started fluxuating between 13 and 14V 5. After about 3/4 mile on the interstate, voltage was at 12.8 and I pulled off onto the next exit (knew traffic around Indy was stop and go, and was going to go the back way instead) 6. Came to a stop on the off-ramp and voltage started acting normal again 7. Shortly after I started going again, voltage crept down to 12.8 8. Over the next 20 miles, I tried the "drop to idle while moving" thing several times and no dice. It did stay up to 12.8 better if it was above 5krpm, but didn't get any higher when revved higher than that 9. Went to come to a stop at a light off the highway close to Travis's place, and when I was on the brakes with the turn signal on, coming to a stop, the voltage came back up as I was coming to a stop, again, about .1V higher than normal. 10. Fine the rest of the way to Travis's house (~1.25 miles) 11. R/R was too hot to keep hand on when I got there (never felt it before after running... how hot is normal?), but not hot enough to burn instantly. 12. Fired up and was fine for the remaining 20 miles home, although ~.1 to .2V higher than normal 13. Slightly hotter than before when I got home, but not so hot as to smell hot (burning dust and such). Got the thing apart and found as follows: 1. all connectors(at R/R, and where stator connects to harness under tank) and wires were in VERY good shape, with no signs of overheating on the shielding. Connector terminals were VERY shiny and not corroded at all. 2. .3 ohms between all 3 of the stator wires, and all were insulated from ground 3. .1 ohms between connector + and - and battery + and -. This all adds up to a bad R/R in the manual, but then again, the voltage was doing just fine the whole rest of the way home, so I'm sure it would read just fine right now... Being that it's still making some voltage, and seems to be somewhat engine temperature and rpm related, it would seem that I was losing 1 of the 3 phases in the R/R... but then again... I dono... I'm going to get into it farther, but I'm thinking about just replacing the stator with the higher output FI version, and replacing the R/R with an R1 unit and being done with it... Any ideas? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I did a little investigation on failed R/Rs a while back. I only had older style units to check out. If you have a later model RR that has fins I would like to have it to study. From my analysis of the failed units it can be seen why the stators are taken out by a failure of the R/R. When the unit fails, the diodes short, which then is a short directly across one of the three stator outputs. This then causes the overheating and failure of the stator wires and possibly connectors. It is not unusual to have heat related breakdowns in solid state devices, which can recover when cooled down. I would not run that bike again until I had replaced the R/R unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 OK, so here's the way it's going down... Just called Mike (Gary isn't in parts any more) at University Motors, and got (2) '99 R1 regs coming to me (always wanted a spare for shits, and they were like $48 each (Hell, Ronayres wants $64 for one), and a single Honda replacement is like $160), because this is the original (non-finned one) from '97, with 40k miles on it, so it's bound to go at some point... If that doesn't fix it, it's a stator, and I'll hit up a '99 stator to get the higher output from the later years. One question though... I've heard tell of a connector pigtail being avaliable for the R1 units... Is there any truth in this, or what? Mike said he doesn't know of one, and if there is one, it's probably being sold after-market... Any ideas? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew69442 Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Well... fuck. It happened again on the way home, except this time, here's what happened... 1. Voltage was up just fine at startup, possibly a little bit high, but only .1 to .2V higher than normal. 2. Started riding, and voltage was fine for the first ~1 mile 3. Voltage started to fluxuate when engine got warmed up, as I got close to the highway (1.5 miles) 4. Once I got onto the interstate, the voltage started fluxuating between 13 and 14V 5. After about 3/4 mile on the interstate, voltage was at 12.8 and I pulled off onto the next exit (knew traffic around Indy was stop and go, and was going to go the back way instead) 6. Came to a stop on the off-ramp and voltage started acting normal again 7. Shortly after I started going again, voltage crept down to 12.8 8. Over the next 20 miles, I tried the "drop to idle while moving" thing several times and no dice. It did stay up to 12.8 better if it was above 5krpm, but didn't get any higher when revved higher than that 9. Went to come to a stop at a light off the highway close to Travis's place, and when I was on the brakes with the turn signal on, coming to a stop, the voltage came back up as I was coming to a stop, again, about .1V higher than normal. 10. Fine the rest of the way to Travis's house (~1.25 miles) 11. R/R was too hot to keep hand on when I got there (never felt it before after running... how hot is normal?), but not hot enough to burn instantly. 12. Fired up and was fine for the remaining 20 miles home, although ~.1 to .2V higher than normal 13. Slightly hotter than before when I got home, but not so hot as to smell hot (burning dust and such). Got the thing apart and found as follows: 1. all connectors(at R/R, and where stator connects to harness under tank) and wires were in VERY good shape, with no signs of overheating on the shielding. Connector terminals were VERY shiny and not corroded at all. 2. .3 ohms between all 3 of the stator wires, and all were insulated from ground 3. .1 ohms between connector + and - and battery + and -. This all adds up to a bad R/R in the manual, but then again, the voltage was doing just fine the whole rest of the way home, so I'm sure it would read just fine right now... Being that it's still making some voltage, and seems to be somewhat engine temperature and rpm related, it would seem that I was losing 1 of the 3 phases in the R/R... but then again... I dono... I'm going to get into it farther, but I'm thinking about just replacing the stator with the higher output FI version, and replacing the R/R with an R1 unit and being done with it... Any ideas? Mike Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew69442 Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew69442 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing....... Yeah, I know that, but it doesn't drop below 12V with the low and high beams on, and the brakes on, when the engine is off... I've lost a cell on batteries before, and this isn't it... You also don't get a cell back after it's gone, then lose it again, then lose it again, then get it back again... This is why I keep telling that Wadem guy to get his battery tested... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike So Mike what does this pigtail enable you to do, does it allow you to plug the R1 RR into the XX plug or do you still need to put spade connectors on the XX plug. I picked up my upgraded 98 RR yesterday morning and it has the fins for cooling and a metal plate that I am assuming is a heatsink. From pics it looks like the RR is still a bit smaller than an R1 RR, what was the part # for the R1 RR?, as I might look into getting one as a spare if they are so cheap, even if I have to get one from over there in the US Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew69442 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job.... Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing....... Yeah, I know that, but it doesn't drop below 12V with the low and high beams on, and the brakes on, when the engine is off... I've lost a cell on batteries before, and this isn't it... You also don't get a cell back after it's gone, then lose it again, then lose it again, then get it back again... This is why I keep telling that Wadem guy to get his battery tested... Mike Mike, for me at the moment I would focus on three things. 1.) There is a sudden large demand & the V/R is working its nuts off to compensate. 2.) The V/R can't properly sense the battery and it’s lost. 3.) The insulation on the stator winding is breaking down from heat & or vibration. To determine where you stand on #1 it’s back to the amp meter on the battery in conjunction with a VM. To determine #2 check all the connections or install jumpers to remove connections from the equation (which I know you already did) To determine #3 you will have to have access to a mega ohm meter. Aside from that hopefully you have a buddy who has and XX that you can slut parts from as a test mule. Regardless keep us posted as I am sure this will be and education for all once you nail it..... Lew, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Well... The only thing about the thing sapping current is: I can't get it to happen again... Of course, I haven't ridden around, but I did start it and let it get warm, but I dono... As it sits, the manual guided troubleshooting guide says R/R, but that's assuming either the insulation in the R/R isn't breaking down, and there isn't something sapping a load (although, it didn't seem like a load issue to me, the way things were happening). I was going to do the R1 R/R anyway, because taking these trips this summer, so I've got a couple on the way, and we'll see if that's it... Mike BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike So Mike what does this pigtail enable you to do, does it allow you to plug the R1 RR into the XX plug or do you still need to put spade connectors on the XX plug. I picked up my upgraded 98 RR yesterday morning and it has the fins for cooling and a metal plate that I am assuming is a heatsink. From pics it looks like the RR is still a bit smaller than an R1 RR, what was the part # for the R1 RR?, as I might look into getting one as a spare if they are so cheap, even if I have to get one from over there in the US You solder the pigtail to your wire connections (after cutting your stock connector off), so you have an actual connector for the R1 R/R... I see your post in the other thread, so I'll assume the other questions are answered... MIke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 OK, so here goes... Put in the '99 Yamaha R1 R/R, along with the aftermarket plug that I got from the local place, and SOLDERED the new terminals on my old wires (cut the old terminals off RIGHT after the old plugs, and there was room in the harness), and snapped the new connector in, and it seems to be working just fine. Tested it out in the garage for awhile last night, then rode the 40 miles to work this morning with the heated gear on full the whole way, and not a problem thus far. About the connectors... They do work perfectly, but I'm trying to source them myself. I'll just post up the part number and location when I find it, because there's enough room in the stock wiring harness to solder the new connectors on right where you cut the others off, so they don't need pigtails made up or anything. I would have picked up more than the (2) that I got (Travis gets one of these) when I went on Saturday, but he only had 2 right then, and will have to order more, so it's not like you could call this guy right now, and order them anyway. I'll keep you posted on the progress with finding these connectors. They do require cutting all the old terminals off and soldering all (5) new ones on, because of the way they hook in the connector. The factory connector has the keepers in it, while the aftermarket connector relies on the pins for the keepers on them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 Keep us posted on the connectors! The one thing I did not like about the R1 replacement was modifing the wiring, but it sounds like you have that sorted out. My R/R was on it's way out at around 35k I got lucky and found one off a wreck that had about 8,000 miles on it for $40. I'm thinking of replacing the R/R and stator before the trips begin, and maybe upgrading the stator to the FI model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 Keep us posted on the connectors! The one thing I did not like about the R1 replacement was modifing the wiring, but it sounds like you have that sorted out. My R/R was on it's way out at around 35k I got lucky and found one off a wreck that had about 8,000 miles on it for $40. I'm thinking of replacing the R/R and stator before the trips begin, and maybe upgrading the stator to the FI model. I'm debating on the FI model stator, too... Just because I've got a little over 40k, and I don't expect it to last more than the next year or so anyway... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 Yeah I'm about to turn 40k and I'm thinking the same thing. When I replaced my RR the connector from the stator to the RR was showing signs of heat. I cleaned up the connectors while I was at it and it hasn't gotten any worse. I ohmed out the stator and it was within spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Yeah I'm about to turn 40k and I'm thinking the same thing. When I replaced my RR the connector from the stator to the RR was showing signs of heat. I cleaned up the connectors while I was at it and it hasn't gotten any worse. I ohmed out the stator and it was within spec. I'm resurrecting this thread because I experienced the EXACT same symptoms this last week at HookersXX '07. Just to validate Mike's symptoms the fluctuations would occur randomly. I would be cruising at a steady throttle and the voltage would drop down to 12.5 or less and the jump up to 13.9 stay there for a while and slowly climb up to 14.3 to 14.9 and occasionally hit 15.0 to 15.3. At one point (in stop 'n go traffic) it dropped down to about 11.6. I'll tear into the bike today or tomorrow and meter the system, but it does seem to be the regulator. As an aside, I was so busy checking the voltage in Oregon that I didn't see the OSP trooper that lit me up at 97 in a 50... Ouch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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