lew69442

Shock is in great shape with no leaks. Never had a chance to install it before buying and Ohlins. $50 OBO.

Regardless of and A/C or DC application bad connections = resistance/resistance=heat & increased current draw. Any good marine store will offer shrink type butt connectors but and investment in good ratcheting crimpers will go a long way. Dielectric grease is OK to use but if you are using tinned wire & connectors its not really necassary. If I recall all the BB OEM wire is simple copper strand (not tinned) so tinning the wire that you strip with solder is a good idea before inserting it into a connector.

There are two industry standards in resitive type instrumentation the US standard is 180-10 ohm and the world is 230-33 ohm. Next more than likley the threads on a Jap bike are not going to be NPT, others are close BSP & etc but you need to pay attention to the proper thread pitch I know it is in the shop manual. Once you do find the appropiate plumbing stay away from brass (to soft for engine vibration) use black iron or even galvy and keep the fittings short to minimize fitigue. In CT you have Faria instrument company which is kinda the VW of the gauge world (low end) but for quality instruments for any application and they will custom build just about anything I use Hoyt in NH.Hoyt

Tire Express

I think there were a few posts on the Wilbers blowing their oil seal a bit prematurely I think Warchild was one of them aside from that I have heard nothing but happy Wilbers owners....

Has anyone had first time success with Race tech’s recommended valve stack configuration on the compression valving on the new G2R valves? I kinda got the feeling when I had to call them for the valve stack arrangement they had little feedback and it was just a rough baseline they are currently providing.

In general bikes using the Yusa wet cell batteries with sound electrical systems get on average 6 to 8 years of life. You will not see that type of longevity out of a Wal-Mart battery. The only question regarding battery selection should be the OEM wet cell Yusa or moving into newer gel or dry battery technology to take advantage of zero maintenance increased cca and Ahrs count

Painting your bike this close to the start of the riding season may not be in your best intrest. What I have learned from over the years of restoring cars and bikes paint/body shops are (believe it or not ) even worse then general contractors with being on schedule. Also Color Rite gets a premium for their product and there is nothing premium about it at all. The color matches are close but not perfect and the durability is a bit off. I have been pleased with the Sikkens and the PPG product........

The Vermont American's are the perfect beater set for everyday use and are great value but the set to have forever and hand down to your grandkids is the Thunderbit

Looks nothing like my 2002 collector.......

Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing....... Yeah, I know that, but it doesn't drop below 12V with the low and high beams on, and the brakes on, when the engine is off... I've lost a cell on batteries before, and this isn't it... You also don't get a cell back after it's gone, then lose it again, then lose it again, then get it back again... This is why I keep telling that Wadem guy to get his battery tested... Mike Mike, for me at the moment I would focus on three things. 1.) There is a sudden large demand & the V/R is working its nuts off to compensate. 2.) The V/R can't properly sense the battery and it’s lost. 3.) The insulation on the stator winding is breaking down from heat & or vibration. To determine where you stand on #1 it’s back to the amp meter on the battery in conjunction with a VM. To determine #2 check all the connections or install jumpers to remove connections from the equation (which I know you already did) To determine #3 you will have to have access to a mega ohm meter. Aside from that hopefully you have a buddy who has and XX that you can slut parts from as a test mule. Regardless keep us posted as I am sure this will be and education for all once you nail it..... Lew,

Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new.... Battery is (3) months old, is a Yausa battery, and has been on the tender the month is was constantly icy here, and I just got back from TN, and had ridden to work like 5 times since I got back. BTW, come to find out, the local cycle recycle place keeps the R1 R/R blank plugs in stock (after-market) and will put connectors in them, for a total of like $8 or so for a completely new R1 plug with pigtail... Mike Rule of thumb "never gage a battery by its age" plate seperation is a cruel cruel thing.......

Nope, no airflow change, no nothing else... Any time I've had something suck a large load like that (actually, never had anything suck THAT much load), at idle, it dropped to something like 12.0V. This was fairly constant, but just too low... Even when I was running heated gear and heated grips, with the high beam on, I felt it right after I stopped and it wasn't NEARLY this hot... Mike All I can suggest at this point is to install an amp meter at the battery to see if a sudden current draw coincides with the sudden voltage oscillation. Lastly have the battery tested with a digital analyzer (not a resistive type "hand warmer"). Any good parts store will have this tester available to customers to test before they buy new....

Mike, as I do not have the carbed model XX has the V/R been removed from the bike or air flow thru the location of the V/R been changed before this issue? V/Rs generally speaking either work or they don't. It will get warm to the touch when it is putting out full field but on bikes the V/R heat is usually dissipated from the case to the frame or some metal object. I'm wondering if something on the bike is putting a large demand on the charging system intermittently and it’s just doing its job....

Start with checking all the V/R connections from point to point including all the battery and ground connections. If the V/R can't see the battery voltage due to a bad connection it will do this.....

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LSL claims that their horizontal portion (where the logo is) keeps the bike from spinning in the event of a long slide as well as the delrin puck is a replaceable item. They are pretty good quality. Kneedraggers seamed to have the best pricing if I recall.....

Tjvulvula, was extremely kind enough to forward me all the info he had regarding this earlier this year and I do agree it is excellent fit and finish hands down. As I am preparing for my annual winter refit in a month or so I am trying to weigh all of my exhaust system options especially since my addition of Sw- Motech hard bag brackets. With the notion of this necessary evil (hard bags) put into the equation any info regarding twin can exhaust systems high or low mount will be greatly appreciated...Lew

Any movement on this topic? As I am intrested in his product as well......

I'm not sure, but I would check more closely with the charger you're talking about. 2 amp hr/10 amp hr? Our batterys are 10amp hour batteries, so setting your charger for 2amp hour for 2 hours might not do too much. I'm not sure about this however. And yes, a trickle charger is the way to go. Just "set it and forget it". Even harbor freight has a cheap one if you don't want to spring for the Battery Tender. However, I've never used it so this is not a recommendation. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=42292 I agree with you in theory. The clock should pull .02mA, and with the 10amp hour battery, it "should" be good for months. But you can do the math if you want. However, I've never had such great luck with this practice. I believe the honda manual says to charge it ever 2 weeks so sulfer dosen't build up in the battery. I don't claim to understand the why's and how's of this, but I've killed a few batteries by letting it sit off a trickle charger for months and as a direct result, killed my stator too. Much more expensive and time consuming to change that, believe me!! Jay Residual sulfate is a result of charging and discharging most evident in a storage type battery. Being that we are talking about a starting type battery (with minimum ampacity) that on a proper functioning electrical system its lowest state of discharge is after cranking. With this in mind the sulfate build up issue at best should only be minimal and over time. Generally to dissipate sulfate build up charging at a slightly higher rate over "Bulk" charging for roughly 8hrs will take care of this it’s called "equalizing".

A 10 amp or less QUALITY ELECTRONIC battery charger preferably of the three step type will work just fine. Battery Tender is a fine product but it seems the motorcycle community is caught up in the marketing it is the holy grail of bike battery chargers. Your battery should not be just going flat over the course of a few months if it is you have a problem......

What the???? :icon_wall: "You will not hurt the alternator by operating it at high output because of a flat battery. It always works at max output and what does not go to the battery or other accessories is shorted to earth by the regulator and is sunk as heat." :icon_wall: John you have apparently confused a V/R with a stick welder......

Damn fine job on your ride man! Need a winter project??

Dunlop D 208 rears consistently around 3K (spent tire) and the fronts again consistently around 3K as well but only due to scalloping. Have since moved to Pilot powers front and back and as a result to the way they adhere to the road I don’t even care about the mileage that I obtain from them as they work so well at any temperature on just about any road condition.

I would first try to determine the state of the battery by disconnecting the battery from the bike and with a digital VM check to see if you reversed the polarity of the battery. And if so completely drain it with some sort a 12v load a simple incadesent bulb will do fine. Re-charge the battery (properly) and have it tested if possible and put it back in your Bird. Then we will try to help you move forward……