bpg Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I'm looking to add the following mods to the bird (a 2002): - Hella FF50 (f550??) driving lights, 50 watts each, 100 watts total http://www.rallylights.com/hella/ff050.asp - Warm-n-Safe heated jacket liner with Heat-troller - variable wattage http://www.warmnsafe.com/ - Dual-star heated grip kit , 32 watts http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm Also, I will be replacing the following with LEDs to conserve some electricity: - rear tail/brake lights - rear turn sigs - front marker/turn sigs . Will I have enough juice to run said farkles at normal RPM, given that the '02 supposedly has a better alternator?? :icon_pray: :icon_pray: :icon_pray: (I will likely permanently mount a voltmeter to check while riding, just want to know if it's even feasible)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I'm looking to add the following mods to the bird (a 2002): - Hella FF50 (f550??) driving lights, 50 watts each, 100 watts total http://www.rallylights.com/hella/ff050.asp - Warm-n-Safe heated jacket liner with Heat-troller - variable wattage http://www.warmnsafe.com/ - Dual-star heated grip kit , 32 watts http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm Also, I will be replacing the following with LEDs to conserve some electricity: - rear tail/brake lights - rear turn sigs - front marker/turn sigs . Will I have enough juice to run said farkles at normal RPM, given that the '02 supposedly has a better alternator?? :icon_pray: :icon_pray: :icon_pray: (I will likely permanently mount a voltmeter to check while riding, just want to know if it's even feasible)... You might also want to consider going to the HID kits a lot of guys have installed. Go from 55 watt lights to 35 watt lights (or is it 30?) and save between 20 and 25 watts per light for another 40 to 50 total. I THINK you could run all those at normal cruising (4K+) RPM with no problems, but I'm not totally sure. Those additional lights are gonna suck some serious juice from the system... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottw Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 A voltmeter is the only way to tell if your system has enough charging capacity to keep everything fired up w/o draining the battery. All PGMFI model (1999 on) have the larger alternator, ut they also have more electrical consumption, fuel pump/injectors. Even if you only rig a temporary voltmeter. Even if you get to 13.0-13.2 volts you can stay ahead of the load, but it will take a lot longer the recharge a discharged battery. I picked up 0.4 VDC charging voltage, just by cleaning the connections on the R/R and giving all the connections a good coating of dielectric sillicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 I don't NEED to run the Hellas full time, just wanted more visibility to oncoming traffic during the day and better lighting overall at night (especially when leaned over)... If I switched off the Hellas (@ 100W total) when running the heated stuff, and still swapped to LED tail/turn/brakes, how dangerous would that be? Guess in this case I'm asking 2 separate questions: 1) Can the bird handle 100W of auxillary lights? 2) Can the bird handle a heated liner (50W?) and grips (32W)? I'd hate to get stranded on a cross-country ride if I could possibly avoid it... Would love to do the HID swap, but simply can't right now (student) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 If my memory is right you have about 100W of extra power that isn't being used to run the bikes lights and electrical system. LED lights will give you a bit extra but I'd still say your best bet is to not get the aux lights and save up for HID. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Not at a long stoplight at idle or worse, stop'n'go traffic... Don't ask how i know this :icon_doh: Make sure u have on/off switches for each device and voltmeter (i use 8500 built in meter) to do XXVLCMMM (alias XX Voltage Load Control Manual Management Monitoring), a winger she is NOT, but a fast wench ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 If my memory is right you have about 100W of extra power that isn't being used to run the bikes lights and electrical system. LED lights will give you a bit extra but I'd still say your best bet is to not get the aux lights and save up for HID. thing is, I bought the Hellas last summer... I could put them on the truck I guess... Will the HID's light up the ditches better, and provide lots of light when the bike is leaned way over?? Always hated that sudden loss of light when cornering at night.... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Oh yeah baby, do HID Best $ spent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 The HID conversion works wonders, no doubt. That combined with adjusting the headlight up some makes a HUGE difference in cornering light. I would recommend sticking with a halgoen high beam, as the HID's heat time won't help you if you need to use the high beam in a corner. I have a 100 watt high beam (because I rarely use it) and that with the HID in a hard corner rivals sunlight! I also agree with everybody else, stay away from the extra lighting. On a cold morning, or if I haven't started the bird in about a week, the HID will strobe until I bring it up to above 2g's, so that extra power soon dwindles once you start adding stuff on. I already have the running lights bypassed in the mirrors and am going to change to LED's eventually in the taillights and turn signals as well. I just wish somebody could come up with a way to rig some other bikes stator or something to our bikes to increase output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlingBird Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 The alternator on your bike will provide 460 watts. This is probably just enough to run the bike and all your gear but Honda's infamous rectifier will probably be your downfall. HID lights are much better than standard halogen lamps but if your only reason for buying them is to save power, don't bother, you won't save any worthwhile amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 You are looking at a 17amp load. HIDs are no majic bullet, they will only save you about 1.6 amp per bulb. LED turn signals are a wash because they are hardly ever used and you will probably have to add a resistor into the circuit to get them to flash correctly anyway. Tail lights are about 600ma (4.5 amps with the brakes applied). With all this done you are still asking for about 160 extra watts from your charging system. It could be done if managed correctly. Warchild has about the most farkles I've seen on an XX. Didn't he come up with some load management switchbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I am currently running: HID low beam (stays OFF except after dark) Stock high beam with modulator (stays ON except after dark) Audiovox electronic cruise control Sirius satellite radio AutoCom intercom system Beltronics detector (with digital voltage meter) Stock front, rear LED turn signals with modulator Pro-oiler Ipod 30 gig MP3 Widder heated gloves Widder heated vest Widder arm chaps At anything above a dead idle, I consistently get 13.5+ volts on the system. At speed it is always over 14V At idle it dips to about 11.8V I trickle charge my battery every few weeks just to be safe, and I am on the same battery that came with the bike at 2500 miles (so I think it is the stock one) 7 years and 22K on one isn't too shabby? If you are installing Hellas to be noticed, save your time. A cheap (80bucks or so) modulator hooked to high beam will beat that hands down. The HID is I believe the single most important mod anyone can make to their bike if they ride at night (given it is aimed correctly) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I don't NEED to run the Hellas full time, just wanted more visibility to oncoming traffic during the day and better lighting overall at night (especially when leaned over)... I'm rigged with HID low beam and Signal Dynamics Modulator rigged to oem high beam, works great. I have headlight adjusted up just a bit (haven't been flashed). The HID is fantastic at night, huge improvement. During the day i run high beam (modulating) and of course HID is on too. The modulating yellowish tint high beam under the HID low beam makes you really stand out big time. Plus, i came across some switched 20W fog lights i use for conspicuity that i have mounted under the front fender. These take way less juice to run (than 55W) plus are very conspicious (don't do shit for seeing road better, do help a bit in slow corners). They small, lightweight and ez to mount. I run these all the time except in stop'n'go traffic. Eagle Eye 20W (2nd set of lights) Other things i've done for conspicuity: 1. Replaced front amber side reflectors with amber 12-LED units w same shape and size. This works great at night, does little during day. I commute daily very early in the morning (dark) on freeways and these really help cagers see u from side. 2. Installed red 4-LED unit on sides (under red lens, looks oem) of Givi E52. Major improvement in conspicuity from side and rear angles. 3. Replaced cheap Givi brake lights (broke) w 24-LED units and wired as running/brake lights, woohoo, oh yeah baby . This is a big bang for the $ improvement. 4. Mounted Signal Dignamics 24-LED Light Bar on top of Givi E52 as running/brake light. 5. Installed Electrical Connection Turn Signal Conversion Kit. It turns your rear turn signals into a fully integrated 12-LED red running/brake lights and oem amber turn signals. Really slick design, fully legal and ez to install. Little trendy in $, but really work nice. Linky 6. Still need to replace oem brake lights with 25-LED ones... Since i install these my incidents w cagers has been reduced dramatically, but there are still a few galactically stupid cagers out there that just don't get it :icon_doh: I have a switch bar (poor man's version to Warchild's C.U.N.T) to control modulator, fog lights, chain oiler and heated grips for ECM (Electronic Control Management). Running heated grips and fog lights is starting to overload the XX alt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I have heated grips and a heated vest. I don't use the vest except in cold weather. I use the grips as needed. No HID or AUX lamps though. No problems so far, but I think it's definitely wise to shut down stuff you don't really need when not using it. Heated clothing doesn't take too much juice if you have a thermostat to regulate how hot it gets. Most good gear doesn't need max power to do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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