BlingBird

The info on the V+M site, stated that their bird did a 130mph 1/4 and took a further 1.6 miles to reach 200mph BDAZ... for someone who (allegedly) races bikes, you don't seem to know a great deal about their setup. Anyone who thinks any track bike is geared for top speed, needs to take their nose out of the gas tank coz their head is obviously more mixed up than scooby doo. And just so you know... I'm 38, I started riding bikes when I was 6 years old and driving karts when I was 7. I did 140mph on a kart at 10 years of age and started racing them at 14. I was rally driving by 18 and at 21, I was building and tuning some of the fastest hot rods in the UK... and guess what... nothing I ever worked on or drove was ever geared for top speed, not even when set up for an oval. Your suggestion, that because a race bike is only geared to pull 190 at daytona, means that that's its maximum (horse power limited) speed, is ludicrous. Did it not cross your mind that the bike might just be geared to get round the circuit in the fastest possible time? I'm giving up up this now coz although the V+M XX figures may be incorrect (I have no proof to the contrary), it's like talking to a child who doesn't have a clue what he's talking about but resorts to name calling because doesn't know how else to express himself... stick to your ovals, BDAZ, they suit you.

I only just noticed this... Who mentioned anything about a stock bike.. the V+M bike was over 200bhp OK, I'll bow to your superior knowledge oh wise one... you're obviously right because you've been riding a bike for 30 years and Honda, V+M and the official timers were all lying.

Looks like the V+M site has disappeared but here's a little info on the bike. V & M Blackbird. The First Normally Aspirated Road Bike To Do 200 M.P.H. "When we decided to build a road bike to do 200 m.p.h. the Honda CBR1100XX was the obvious choice. Good streamlining and a strong stock motor were the basis for V&M's Steve Mellor to start work. Wanting to keep the bike flexible and user friendly, the stock carbs and engine balance shafts were left in, but the air box was modified to ram air. The bottom end of the engine was left stock with "Carrillo" rods fitted as "insurance". Power centres around the 1200 big-bore pistons and the extensively gas flowed cylinder head. Careful machining for correct squish and compression ratio and VMR profile camshafts are phased in for optimum power. Steve also put a lot of work into the stock C.V. carbs, for maximum drivability in conjunction with the ram air box. Fitted with a modified AKRAPOVIC race exhaust the engine produces in excess of 180 b.h.p. at the rear wheel, compared to the stock bikes at 135 b.h.p. Even though the V&M bike has in excess of 45 b.h.p. more than the stock bike, it is easier to ride with the immense torque spread making a very flexible and user-friendly motor. Official Honda results... CBR1200XX -182 RWHP 0 - 200mph - 9980 feet (1.85 miles) So as I said previously, no, you can't do the 200mph in 1/2 a mile, or 3/4 but 200mph on a bird is possible with 180RWHP Honda advertised the bike as being capable of 204mph but I can't find any figures to back this up... still, what's 4mph between friends

http://www.scta-bni.org/Bonneville/records/BNIrecs_bikes.htm Seems there was even a 350cc yamaha managed it back in 1973... but maybe that doesn't count because he didn't do it at daytona?

LMFAO... I've just been looking for proof for you BDAZ XX but it seems you already found it. You posted the same shit on another forum... you honestly believe that half a mile should be sufficient to reach 200mph? Maybe it would be a good idea to check out some land speed records then come back and post your findings before you start accusing people of being full of shit. Just because you choose to believe that 200mph isn't 200mph unless it's done at daytona or whatever track you're talking about, doesn't mean you have to spout bullshit to me about your perception of speed. The bikes you're talking about aren't geared for top speed, they're race bikes ffs... fookin part time bikers, i've shit em! bartonmd, V+M proved it when they got their hands on the XX and upped the output to 180RWHP but you don't have to take my word for it, do a little research of your own.

Your full of shit! Theres no way 180rwhp will get you to 200 on a XX! Chris and Forrest have been there done that! Hell the AMA Superbikes are putting out 200+ rwhp and at Daytona there only hitting low to mid 190's and they have 3/4 mile to get there(which is more than enough space), 100+mph run at the banking and straight. You might be able to BS those that dont know, but we DO KNOW the truth about what can and can not be done with the XX! Someone else who doesn't know his arse from his elbow :icon_duh: Suggest you do some calculations, 198 flywheel bhp is sufficient to push the bike to 200 with the correct gearing but if you're unable to use a calculator (judging from your last post, that wouldn't surprise me) then do a little research into the V+M blackbird (if you know how to use google)

180 RWHP will give you 200mph with the correct gearing - proven fact. Getting your bird to push 180 RWHP is another matter. Be prepared to fork out a lot of hard earned and as was said previously, you'll probably only ever do 200mph a few times because you need a set of balls the size of melons to do it regularly. Roads that you thought were pretty smooth suddenly turn into ploughed fields, you only skip over the surface, maybe touching it every 50 foot or so... but it's fun

I've been looking through paperwork and can't find any figures for the cams, sorry mate. Going off how tractable it is at low revs, I'd say it could easily take something a bit wilder but I have no idea what the duration and lift are. I'll take some measurements when I blow the engine The bike was just short of £16,000 GBP new, which is about $36,000 CAD I think? It is a shame Honda never saw fit to produce something of this spec but I think Honda's biggest problem is competing on price. We all know that Honda's build quality is second to none and for them to produce a bike of this standard and maintain their unbeatable reliability would probably mean the bike would be overpriced or wouldn't be cost effective. I could be wrong, maybe Honda have something up their sleeve as we speak but I think they've given up looking for the top slot, a case of 'been there done that' and they've gone back to doing what they do best... producing the best bikes in the world. (shame about the wobbly st1300 )

The alternator on your bike will provide 460 watts. This is probably just enough to run the bike and all your gear but Honda's infamous rectifier will probably be your downfall. HID lights are much better than standard halogen lamps but if your only reason for buying them is to save power, don't bother, you won't save any worthwhile amount.

The V+M is (was) V+M racing, A UK company who specialised in ripping loads of power from the XX. V+M produced 50 of these bikes for Honda Europe to celebrate Honda's 50th anniversary. The bike was a standard bird with a 1198 big bore kit, forged pistons, VMR cams, gas flowed head, modified carbs, corillo con rods, re mapped, adjustable ignition system, new oil cooler, Acrappybitch exhaust, Penske rear shock, LSL rear sets and steering damper and a few other little bits. The bike produced 200 bhp at the crank in standard form (about 175 at the wheel), I've had a modified injection system fitted which added a few HP and makes it a bit more user friendly. and is now pushing out 181bhp at the rear wheel and 108 foot pounds of torque... not bad for an XX I've replaced a lot of the original gear and fitted Ohlins front and rear which makes a big difference to the handling. Sounds like you're doing a lot to yours, would be nice to see the figures when it's finished.

It's a V+M 1200 fitted with a remapped injection system. It's heavy on rear tyres but the grin factor is amazing! I fuckin' love my blingbird

Ok, i'll go first 181bhp at the wheel! :icon_nana:

As you can guess, this one was screwed up to the last for a fat bastard, you should be able to work the rest out from there The adjustment screw at the bottom is for rebound damping only.