ekasXX Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 OK, this is probably a very dumb question, but here it goes anyway. I changed the brake fluids and clutch fluid in my bike today. I had a heck of time getting it to get pressure, but finally used some of the posts here (instead of the book) to get them working. I went on a test ride and the new wave rotors and fluid were unbelievable. I stopped on a dime and everything seemed to be great. I figure I must have got it all done correctly. Is there a possibility that air can hide in the line somewhere and I may just be riding sometime soon and have no breaks? I think I'm good, but a little reassurance from a second opinion would be good. It works great, but just a little nervous since this was my first time doing this. Is there anything to follow up on or should I just ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 I'm no expert but if you tightened everything back up and don't feel any sag in the brakes now I'd say you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texhoss Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 John, I understood there is a certain progression in the steps of the bleeding of the LBS System brakes. I would want to know I had done this correctly. I'm sorry, but for me, there should be nothing left to chance on proper function of this LBS System on straight or curve braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 Did the clutch recently, and could not build up pressure on the clutch lever. No matter how hard I tried to get it right. Spoke to a couple of friends and they told me the quickest way to get the air out would be to use a clamp on the rubber hoses. Pump the lever, and slowly release the clamp. This worked like a dream, and the air came out quickly.... After that, just bleed like you normally would to get all the air out of the steel piping. So what I'm getting at is that I think the majority of air gets trapped in the rubber hoses, and is more difficult to get out than what it would be if there was any air trapped in the steel piping. If you blead the brakes according to the manual in the right order, and did not get any air bubbles, I would think you should be safe. If you are not 100% sure, maybe use a clamp on the rubber hoses and see if there are any bubbles coming up in the reservoir? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 I have always changed the fluid in my hydraulic systems by fashioning a reservoir out of a regular brake cap. I haven't done one for the XX yet but will in November when it is due for the flush. The thing takes the form of a funnel and is used to replace the stock reservoir cap. Remove stock cap and diaphragm, replace with reservoir funnel. Fill funnel with fresh, clean brake fluid. I also use a Mity-Vac on the bleed nipples. This way, you just pump till fresh fluid is coming out of the bleed line and your done. Never an opportunity for air to get into the system. When the bleed is complete, it is a simple matter to suck the excess fluid out of the funnel and down to the proper level in the master cyclinder, I use a 10cc syringe with a long needle, available from most chemical supply houses. Replace the modified cap with the stock components and your done. Looks like the windscreen will have to come off on the XX to do this but that is no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 Did the clutch recently, and could not build up pressure on the clutch lever. No matter how hard I tried to get it right. Spoke to a couple of friends and they told me the quickest way to get the air out would be to use a clamp on the rubber hoses. Pump the lever, and slowly release the clamp. This worked like a dream, and the air came out quickly.... After that, just bleed like you normally would to get all the air out of the steel piping. So what I'm getting at is that I think the majority of air gets trapped in the rubber hoses, and is more difficult to get out than what it would be if there was any air trapped in the steel piping. If you blead the brakes according to the manual in the right order, and did not get any air bubbles, I would think you should be safe. If you are not 100% sure, maybe use a clamp on the rubber hoses and see if there are any bubbles coming up in the reservoir? Let me get this straight you're saying to pinch off the rubber clutch/brake lines I'm thinking that is a very bad idea. :icon_nono: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 The mistake a lot of you seem to be making is to purge ALL the fluid till there is only air in there. Don't. Pump the lever till you are almost sucking air and the reservoir is almost empty then hold the lever/pedal in the engaged position and refill. Continue till you get clean fluid at the other end. Don't make the job harder and introduce air into the system. The only time this is necessary is on a rebuild or hose change. If you have good stopping power now it will be fine. Any air in there is already in the system and in use every time you brake. It won't mysteriously appear unless you have a loose fitting or bleeder. Wouldn't hurt to run more fluid through as I described to get rid of any air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 I agree 100% with airborneXX, do not pinch a rubber brake hose. In my opinion that would damage the hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toynut Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 The safest (and cleanest) way to bleed your bike or any vehicle is to use a combination brake bleeder /reservoir filler from Mityvac. If you have a few vehicles that you need to change the fluids regularly or have a few buddies nearby that you can split the reasonable cost of one (#6835 appx $120-$150), and have a tool that comes in very handy. I concur with the others that pinching a brake/clutch hose can easily ruin one. :icon_nono: Here is the link.... http://mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasXX Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 I used the Mity Vac to suck out all the old based on the directions in the book. I put in new fluid and and sucked it through. Once it seemed like I had fluid at all the points in the order that the book called for, I went back and did them again just to be sure. For the clutch, I got lazy and did the pump the fluid out just before empty, and started adding new fluid. I did this until I had nothing but clear fluid at the bottom. That seemed to be a good option. It has good pressure and seems to work just fine. I guess the verdict is that I should be OK and nothing should mysteriously show up and be brakeless at the wrong time. Thanks everyone, I feel better now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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