ekasXX

Migs..I still love those pipes. Would it be wrong to spend my family summer vacation money to get a second bird? This bike is so worth the money with those wheels and all the extras. You will regret it, unless you have another bird on the hook. This bike sold me when you let me ride it before I got mine.

Here is the link we used. The is no way in Hell HDXX would be able to figure out how to post a link. We basically followed how to find the problem area and then used contact cleaner and a toothbrush to clean off all the green and white corrosion (sp) under the brown plastic coupler piece. Then we used the silicone spray to help stop the corrosion. We flipped the cap so that water would run out of it and not get trapped inside of it and then taped the crap out of it to the loom. Scott's connection/connectors/jumpers were all green and white, so it seems the link is correct in the diagnosis. So far, HDXX's light has stayed off, so the fix seems to have worked. Linky: http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/foru...ead.php?t=16438 Hope it helps someone in need.

I'm not a mechanic, but I'd ride it and put some miles on it. Maybe run some Seafoam through the fuel tank, and after a few hundred miles check it out. If it isn't a big problem, why go through the effort. Its not like the bike is a real performer anyway, so how badly underpowered from stock could it be in its current condition. Again, I'm not a mechanic, but that's what I'd do. In aviation we'd use mineral oil to help the engine break in and seat the rings, maybe someone has some thoughts on this.

No expert here, but from my experience it is VERY difficult to tweak a swingarm. I'd suspect something else if it is tracking funny since the crash happened at the front of the bike. I also agree that misaligning the axle is a bad idea. It might mask one problem and create a few more.

I used the Mity Vac to suck out all the old based on the directions in the book. I put in new fluid and and sucked it through. Once it seemed like I had fluid at all the points in the order that the book called for, I went back and did them again just to be sure. For the clutch, I got lazy and did the pump the fluid out just before empty, and started adding new fluid. I did this until I had nothing but clear fluid at the bottom. That seemed to be a good option. It has good pressure and seems to work just fine. I guess the verdict is that I should be OK and nothing should mysteriously show up and be brakeless at the wrong time. Thanks everyone, I feel better now.

I squeaked out 7K on my last Power front. I'm a "B" rider though.

OK, this is probably a very dumb question, but here it goes anyway. I changed the brake fluids and clutch fluid in my bike today. I had a heck of time getting it to get pressure, but finally used some of the posts here (instead of the book) to get them working. I went on a test ride and the new wave rotors and fluid were unbelievable. I stopped on a dime and everything seemed to be great. I figure I must have got it all done correctly. Is there a possibility that air can hide in the line somewhere and I may just be riding sometime soon and have no breaks? I think I'm good, but a little reassurance from a second opinion would be good. It works great, but just a little nervous since this was my first time doing this. Is there anything to follow up on or should I just ride?

I don't think it is normal. Mine doesn't do it and the others that I have ridden don't seem to do it either. I'd replace the pads, don't rely on visually inspecting them on the bike, the left side will have uneven wear that you can really only see with the wheel off. If you get the wheel off, then check the balance if you haven't had it done. I had a bike before, a ninja, that had a tire out of balance that caused vibrations when braking. Once I got a new tire and balance, the problem was solved. Maybe start with the two easy things first, pads and balance, then if it doesn't solve the problem, get a nice set of wave rotors. I'm not a mechanic, but thats probably what I'd do. IMO

If you got a good deal lined up on a carbed model, then get it. I know a couple guys here locally that have the carbed models and they don't have problems. There are a couple of us with the FI models, and no problems either. If you get a good deal on an FI model, then get it. If the better deal is with a carbed model, I'd go that way. Either way, you will be happy. Both are great running bikes and very smooth.

My 99 doesn't have such a sound. I've ridden both 97's and 99's, and they seem to be the same as far as any transmisson sounds go. Maybe there is something different from the newer models, that I don't know.

Never had that problem. Easy fix: Don't go low speed. Don't ride with low revs. $50 please.

A night ride is great now. If you did both lights, wait till they are both glowing on a back road somewhere. Wow.

I bought mine about 4 weeks ago and he still gave me the 185 price for the 4300K. He is still very good and fast on shipping. Very good product.

That is how I mounted mine too. Works really well, the lube just helped it retract a little better. It locks good and is easy to override if necessary.

I mounted mine a little differently, but I had the same problem at first. It worked and the throttle worked fine, but retracted slowly or hung up. I ended up putting a film of oil on the inside of the throttle grip to make it slippery (between the grip and the NEP lock). I did that probably 4 months ago and haven't had a problem since. It works perfectly.

Not really a gold guy, but I like the way your bike turned out. Tastefully done.

Check this post: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30302 He is working on some parts and he might have an engine too. Otherwise, I know others know where to get the parts. Good Luck

Installed the NEP earlier today. It does take a little engineering to get it mounted. The directions were basically no help, and it didn't fit as the instructions said. I had to put a screw in the bottom of my controls to hold the NEP in place. It seems to function pretty good and you can override if it is "on". I have yet to test it on a trip, but I know K9XX has one and I copied my mounting from his design. His works great, so I'm sure mine will to. My NEP was really cheap....FREE. Thanks to K9XX who had a spare.

It looks very cool. How much for the rear? Confirming it is for an XX? I think they would look good on the front too.

That was mega fast. Thanks.

I've looked by searching the forums, the manual, and fiche. OK, here is my dumb question. Does anyone know the size of allen wrench to fit the steering head nut? Year is 99 in case it matters. I know it is around 12-15mm, but before I go and buy them at $8 each, I'd like to know for sure the size. Specifically, the allen wrench hole under the rubber cap. Anyone?

Keep in mind that the 7500 miles have to be on the bike when you buy it. In other words, you can't have paperwork saying it has 3000 miles on the bike when you bought it and then think you can put the extra miles before you register it. DMV won't register it if your paperwork at the time of purchase shows less than the 7500 miles. Make sure you do it right, you'll only get one chance with DMV or they will ask you to remove the bike from CA....one way ticket out.

When I had airplanes, we put quick drain plugs on all of them and never had any problems. I would think if they were safe for an airplane they should be ok for bike. They worked great too. You buy it and let me know. or get Faingold to buy it, he has too much money anyway.

Dude, what a mess. You should have bought that non California 99 from NY, then you wouldn't have these problems. I'll swing by to check on your status. Maybe check the manual and look for the California supplements and remove anything they have for CA bikes.