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Pilot Screw Adjustment


Mikesblackbird

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At the suggestion of a few board members I plan on synching the carbs and also adjusting the pilot screws to correct a lean condition. The Haynes book says that the 97 model should be 2 3/4 turns out. If I want to richen the carburetor to offset a lean condition, does that mean I should go to maybe 3 turns out, or in to 2 1/2 turns. Instincts tell me that the screw controls the air into the carb and therefore the screws should be turned in.

What's the answer. Can't seem to find it doing the search.

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At the suggestion of a few board members I plan on synching the carbs and also adjusting the pilot screws to correct a lean condition. The Haynes book says that the 97 model should be 2 3/4 turns out. If I want to richen the carburetor to offset a lean condition, does that mean I should go to maybe 3 turns out, or in to 2 1/2 turns. Instincts tell me that the screw controls the air into the carb and therefore the screws should be turned in.

What's the answer. Can't seem to find it doing the search.

Turning the screws out richens the mixture.

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At the suggestion of a few board members I plan on synching the carbs and also adjusting the pilot screws to correct a lean condition. The Haynes book says that the 97 model should be 2 3/4 turns out. If I want to richen the carburetor to offset a lean condition, does that mean I should go to maybe 3 turns out, or in to 2 1/2 turns. Instincts tell me that the screw controls the air into the carb and therefore the screws should be turned in.

What's the answer. Can't seem to find it doing the search.

Turning the screws out richens the mixture.

Thanks Brett. I know it was a stupid question, but I wanted to be sure. My luck, I assume the wrong way and screw things up.

Mike

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At the suggestion of a few board members I plan on synching the carbs and also adjusting the pilot screws to correct a lean condition. The Haynes book says that the 97 model should be 2 3/4 turns out. If I want to richen the carburetor to offset a lean condition, does that mean I should go to maybe 3 turns out, or in to 2 1/2 turns. Instincts tell me that the screw controls the air into the carb and therefore the screws should be turned in.

What's the answer. Can't seem to find it doing the search.

Turning the screws out richens the mixture.

Thanks Brett. I know it was a stupid question, but I wanted to be sure. My luck, I assume the wrong way and screw things up.

Mike

There are no stupid questions Mike... Only stupid people :icon_razz:

J/K bro, it took me forever to get that straight in my head. :icon_doh:

You may find if you're running that lean the pilot screws aren't going to make that much difference. It's easier than rejetting so it's certainly worth a shot.

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While you have the carbs out remove the pilot screws and slot them with dremel so you can use a straight slot screwdriver to turn them. Lightly seat them and turn out 3 turns.

remove each carbs vac. slide and shim the needle with a 25 thous. thick tiny washer. (in addition to the factory washer there)

These 2 simple free changes transforms the lean condidtion on carbed bikes.

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While you have the carbs out remove the pilot screws and slot them with dremel so you can use a straight slot screwdriver to turn them. Lightly seat them and turn out 3 turns.

remove each carbs vac. slide and shim the needle with a 25 thous. thick tiny washer. (in addition to the factory washer there)

These 2 simple free changes transforms the lean condidtion on carbed bikes.

Thanks Pete. I had shimmed the needles on my Kaw before getting the bird and it did make a difference. What about drilling the slides? Should I do that as well while I have the carbs off? I think I read to use a 1/8 drill bit?

Mike

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If I am not mistaken, when the pilot screws are located on the upstream side of the carbs(closest to the seat) they control air and would lean out the mixture when you back them out. When they are located downstream of the carb, they control gas and richen when backing out.

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While you have the carbs out remove the pilot screws and slot them with dremel so you can use a straight slot screwdriver to turn them. Lightly seat them and turn out 3 turns.

remove each carbs vac. slide and shim the needle with a 25 thous. thick tiny washer. (in addition to the factory washer there)

These 2 simple free changes transforms the lean condidtion on carbed bikes.

Thanks Pete. I had shimmed the needles on my Kaw before getting the bird and it did make a difference. What about drilling the slides? Should I do that as well while I have the carbs off? I think I read to use a 1/8 drill bit?

Mike

I'd say leave the slide drilling alone for now. I drilled mine first for the Dynojet kit then later removed it. You can always do it later.

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

I never could either with the Dynojet kit till I made it so rich it was getting 30 mpg so I removed it. Based on what I've read, I now think a Factory kit is the way to go. The DJ needle has too quick a taper I think.

I went back with stock and just shimmed the needle with a tiny washer.

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

I never could either with the Dynojet kit till I made it so rich it was getting 30 mpg so I removed it. Based on what I've read, I now think a Factory kit is the way to go. The DJ needle has too quick a taper I think.

I went back with stock and just shimmed the needle with a tiny washer.

How did the fact that you drilled the slides impact the way it ran after removing the kit?

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

I never could either with the Dynojet kit till I made it so rich it was getting 30 mpg so I removed it. Based on what I've read, I now think a Factory kit is the way to go. The DJ needle has too quick a taper I think.

I went back with stock and just shimmed the needle with a tiny washer.

How did the fact that you drilled the slides impact the way it ran after removing the kit?

Working fine, seems to have improved throttle response.

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

You must have messed up and got the "liberal, left wing kit" because my Dynojet set-up runs smooth as silk. :icon_biggrin:

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I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

Any suggestions?

You must have messed up and got the "liberal, left wing kit" because my Dynojet set-up runs smooth as silk. :icon_biggrin:

LMAO!!!! :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao:

That was a good one!!! :icon_biggrin::icon_biggrin:

Where can I get the correct right wing kit? Or maybe its my left leaning tendancies that cause me to adjust the screws incorrectly.

SEriosly though, could it be I need to adjust the screws out further?

Could the carbs be out of sync? Would that cause it?

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SEriosly though, could it be I need to adjust the screws out further?

Could the carbs be out of sync? Would that cause it?

I don't think that adjusting the screws out would help with the sputtering. Do the carbs run great after 3,500? Are you at a high elevation? A carb sync might be a good place to start. Something must be off because (no kidding) mine is a smooth as silk.

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