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Anyone have the quick and dirty on replacing the rear shock?


Obby

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I don't remember even having to tip the tank. I think I was able to get to both mounts without removing anything else. You may want to lengthen your shock about 1/4" before you install it. I've had an 8981 for about 3-1/2 years now and love it. Which model did you get?

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I don't remember even having to tip the tank. I think I was able to get to both mounts without removing anything else. You may want to lengthen your shock about 1/4" before you install it. I've had an 8981 for about 3-1/2 years now and love it. Which model did you get?

Yep, the 8981 Two way adjustable...

IPB Image

1/4 inch? Is that like shimming the stocker 6mm? Does it help lighten the turning?

Thanks,

Steve

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I didn't like the tight bend on the hose where it exits the shock body when routing the line below the subframe so I loosened the lower and removed the upper subframe bolts and tilted the assembly just enough to slip the hose behind the upper mount. With no preload on the hose and a more direct route it made it easy to mount the GN2 can above the subframe handle on the left side.

I tie wrapped it to the top rail using the supplied rubber cradles and let the edge of the can below the fill valve rest on the aft leg of the handle after wrapping said handle with a length of self vulcanizing tape. Solid mount and you can adjust the compression by just removing the seat.

Hope this helps. Who did you purchase it from?

Greg

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I took the extra step, I had the hose go to the left as well but I removed the subframe bolts and routed the res to an underseat position. Super clean install and easy to get to.

IPB Image

You may find that the shock is too long and adds too much ride height with the adjuster all the way in. Prior to removing the old shock, with the bike on the centerstand, measure from a point on the swingarm to a point on the subframe. Then when you install the new shock you know how much height you gained. Too much makes the bike twitchy and the tire will not be off the ground on the centerstand. If need be, unscrew the bottom mount on the shock and grind a thread or two off so all the threads bottom out when screwed all the way in if you need to lower the rear.

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I didn't like the tight bend on the hose where it exits the shock body when routing the line below the subframe so I loosened the lower and removed the upper subframe bolts and tilted the assembly just enough to slip the hose behind the upper mount. With no preload on the hose and a more direct route it made it easy to mount the GN2 can above the subframe handle on the left side.

I tie wrapped it to the top rail using the supplied rubber cradles and let the edge of the can below the fill valve rest on the aft leg of the handle after wrapping said handle with a length of self vulcanizing tape. Solid mount and you can adjust the compression by just removing the seat.

Hope this helps. Who did you purchase it from?

Greg

It was a part of the kit I bought in Warchilds Traxxion Group Buy. I probably saved near $100 on the shock alone.

I took the extra step, I had the hose go to the left as well but I removed the subframe bolts and routed the res to an underseat position. Super clean install and easy to get to.

IPB Image

You may find that the shock is too long and adds too much ride height with the adjuster all the way in. Prior to removing the old shock, with the bike on the centerstand, measure from a point on the swingarm to a point on the subframe. Then when you install the new shock you know how much height you gained. Too much makes the bike twitchy and the tire will not be off the ground on the centerstand. If need be, unscrew the bottom mount on the shock and grind a thread or two off so all the threads bottom out when screwed all the way in if you need to lower the rear.

Thanks, My Works rear shock on my '97 went right over the top of the subframe I always thought that was sloppy. I may have to do that initially as I don't have much time left once I receive the shock to work on it. Getting packed for TBME!

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I think I just used jack stands under the rear pegs and took the wheel off for weight reduction, cleaning, inspection, lubing, Since you're going to have it appart I assume you'll clean & lube all the linkages and such. Good luck!

Came off pretty easy and I think I losened all the bolts whilit was on the stands before I put it on the jack stands.

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Well, my shock (and Bigcat's) show up as being in the Sparks UPS terminal (near to him, an hour away for me) and we're leaving tomorrow morning. The UPS tracker shows them as due to be delivered tomorrow (after we leave). Damn!!! He's going to try to see if he can pick his up -- I'm probably going to be riding on the OEM shock. :icon_cry:

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I don't remember even having to tip the tank. I think I was able to get to both mounts without removing anything else. You may want to lengthen your shock about 1/4" before you install it. I've had an 8981 for about 3-1/2 years now and love it. Which model did you get?

Yep, the 8981 Two way adjustable...

IPB Image

1/4 inch? Is that like shimming the stocker 6mm? Does it help lighten the turning?

Thanks,

Steve

Yep. That's the reason. My rear wheel just barely touches the ground when the bike is on the center stand, just like installing the 6mm shim. I mounted the reservoir to the lift handle just under the rear cowl. It isn't quite as easy to reach the compression adjuster knob as some of the other illustrations, but I can still adjust it easily enough. I didn't have to loosen the subframe or anything to mount it there.

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Here's a re-post when I submitted the shock install procedure over a year ago. This was for the Wilbers, but the steps are generally the same for your Penske...

Some photos from today's install job:

After you place the bike on the centerstand, you'll want to use a block of wood and a sissors-jack to lift the swingarm just enough to relieve the tension on the upper shock bolt:

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With the fuel tank removed, now you can remove that nasty old factory shock. The locknut (far side wrench) is 17mm, the bolt head (near side wrench) is a 14mm:

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It seems to take forever to unthread the top-bolt, it goes on and on and on.... :banghead:

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Here's the crusty old Showa next to the shiny new Wilbers. The Wilbers is 5mm longer, eyelet-to-eyelet:

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Here is the initial test-fit of the new Wilbers . I ended up rotating the shock 180-degrees so that the remote reservior and remote pre-load are affixed to the right-hand-side of the bike:

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Here's the remote reservoir installed:

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Job complete! Here's the Remote Preload Adjustment Knob in its final orientation:

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Now to set static sag, and dial in the rear shock. Pretty tasty hardware, is it not? :icon_twisted:

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Dale about hit it spot on, but I didn't remove the tank, just lifted the rear up far enough to get some room to undo the shock kingpin nut. With the bike on the centerstand, I put a flat-bladed shovel under the rear tire and let the weight of the rear tire/suspension/swingarm fall onto the blade of the shovel, leaving the handle rising up behind. After pulling the bottom shock bolt I dis assembled the dog bones, checked the linkage and cleaned and re-lubed everything for the installation. I set up the Penske about 5mm longer top to bottom, mounted it on the kingpin, and reinstalled the kingpin inot the frame, routing the remote reservoir out the left side and strapping it onto the outside of the rear subframe inside the plastic in front of the handle for the center stand. That way, I could adjust the 6 position knob easily with the seat off without screwing with the plastic. I put the rest of the rear shock parts back on the bike, and just pressed down on the shovel handle to raise the rear tire to the height I needed to slip the lower shock bolt through the linkage-piece of cake. Torque evertything back to spec, set your sag, and hit the road.

Bryan...If I can do this, anybody can...

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Well, my shock (and Bigcat's) show up as being in the Sparks UPS terminal (near to him, an hour away for me) and we're leaving tomorrow morning. The UPS tracker shows them as due to be delivered tomorrow (after we leave). Damn!!! He's going to try to see if he can pick his up -- I'm probably going to be riding on the OEM shock. :icon_cry:

I'll be happy to stop by your house and pick up the package, for safe keeping, of course. :icon_twisted:

I could use another ride over Ebbetts Pass anyway. :icon_biggrin:

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Thanks Warchild for the excellent tutorial! :icon_biggrin:

Hmmm, anyone have a tutorial for installing the Traxxion front suspension kit? :icon_pray:

Jim M

Yeah, Bring it to garage that works on track bikes for a living. Drop two-fidy on them. Pick it up after work and enjoy :icon_biggrin: .

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