R1 Reg/Rec?

[FloridaSilverBird]

I need a new R/R for my 98 XX. Evidently the board is uninimous that an R1 R/R is the way to go. But what year R1 R/R's will fit on my bird? There is an 05 on ebay being sold for a cheap buy it now here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-Yamaha...1QQcmdZViewItem

would this work?

Thanks.

[TechnoGecko]

Dunno if a 05 will work or not. For the most part, anything will work as long as it provides more power than the existing one. VFR and Blackbird R/R's are interchangable without any wiring changes - they're 100% identical including the plug, so if you see a VFR (94-97) that will work too..

Good reading: http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html

Actually, 90-97 I believe...

and here is one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-VFR-7...sspagenameZWDVW

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Black...sspagenameZWDVW

[Red J]

I need a new R/R for my 98 XX. Evidently the board is uninimous that an R1 R/R is the way to go. But what year R1 R/R's will fit on my bird? There is an 05 on ebay being sold for a cheap buy it now here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-Yamaha...1QQcmdZViewItem

would this work?

Thanks.

Not unanimous, but a majority.

[exskibum]

I need a new R/R for my 98 XX. Evidently the board is uninimous that an R1 R/R is the way to go. But what year R1 R/R's will fit on my bird?

2001 R1 is most recommended from the research I did -- for the '97 and '98, at least. Yamaha Part No. 4JH-81960-01-00

Call Gary at University Motors (701)235-6478. Just do it. You can thank me later -- AFTER you find out what you can get one for there, how good the service is, and how promptly you have a new R1 R/R in your mitts.

[testrider]

I need a new R/R for my 98 XX. Evidently the board is uninimous that an R1 R/R is the way to go. But what year R1 R/R's will fit on my bird?

2001 R1 is most recommended from the research I did -- for the '97 and '98, at least. Yamaha Part No. 4JH-81960-01-00

Call Gary at University Motors (701)235-6478. Just do it. You can thank me later -- AFTER you find out what you can get one for there, how good the service is, and how promptly you have a new R1 R/R in your mitts.

Does anyone know where I can buy the plastic connector for the R1 regulator?

[Red J]

Does anyone know where I can buy the plastic connector for the R1 regulator?

I'd call up your local Yamaha dealer and tell them you fried the wiring in that location, and that you need the repair harness for the RR. Failing that...

Call Gary at University Motors (701)235-6478. Just do it. You can thank me later -- AFTER you find out what you can get one for there, how good the service is, and how promptly you have a new R1 R/R in your mitts.

I think he's a Yamaha dealer, too.

[JasonW]

Does anyone know where I can buy the plastic connector for the R1 regulator?

Just so you know, you don't actually need the plastic connector for the R1 regulator to make it work on the XX.

Somewhere there is a write up about how it's done, but I have no idea where that may be. Basically, you simply pull the spade connectors out of the XX harness and plug them directly into the R1 unit.

Don't know the difference between years, but I've got a carbed bike, so if you need to know how the wires are arranged on it, I can pull mine apart quickly to check. Since it doesn't matter what order the yellow wires connect, I found that the XX plastic connector if cut in half and turned 180 degrees will connect right into the R1 unit. Then you only have the other 2 wires to deal with.

[exskibum]

Just so you know, you don't actually need the plastic connector for the R1 regulator to make it work on the XX.

Somewhere there is a write up about how it's done, but I have no idea where that may be. Basically, you simply pull the spade connectors out of the XX harness and plug them directly into the R1 unit.

Don't know the difference between years, but I've got a carbed bike, so if you need to know how the wires are arranged on it, I can pull mine apart quickly to check. Since it doesn't matter what order the yellow wires connect, I found that the XX plastic connector if cut in half and turned 180 degrees will connect right into the R1 unit. Then you only have the other 2 wires to deal with.

Here's the writeup:

http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html

[testrider]

Thank you all,

I have a 97 carb bike and I bought a new R1 regulator from Ron Ayers (?).

Is it secure enough to just use the spade connectors to plug in to the regulator?

Can those spade connectors get loose by vibrations without interlocking plastic

connector?

I thought if I can get a r1 plastic connector it'll be more secure?

-mike-

[bajjer9]

mine has worked with only the spade connectors and some electrical tape for a while. I would like to say for 3 years but my stator fried it 2 times before i discovered the problem...but it did last 1 1/2 years prior to that

[Red J]

I thought if I can get a r1 plastic connector it'll be more secure?

It would be more secure with a locking connector.

[rideonXX]

Just did mine and I can assure you it will not shake off. Unfortunately mine is done and taped now or I would post a picture in process.

If your old connectors are good, remove them from the holder, tighten gently with needle nose pliers. Then apply 1/4" shrink wrap to each spade and about 2" down the wire. With a small tie wrap, tie them together about 1.5" from the connectors.

Slide a piece of 3/4 shrink wrap (I used about 3") over the connectors, wires & loom. Now, gently, so as not to spread the connectors enough to make them loose again----attach the connectors to the spades on the RR. Slide the shrink wrap up and shrink.

Here is the key to holding it in place. Place a tie wrap around the loom just below the one you used to tie the wires together--but don't tighten it yet. Take another tie wrap and thread through the one you just put on and through the connector housing latch hole in the RR. Tighten both tie wraps---tape to seal and your done. There is no way for the wires to shake loose unless the tie was to break---which is unlikely since the only pressure on it is the amount you applied in the tightening process. And, it's taped to the plastic base on the RR. No more worries about if the connection will hold.

Happy trails kel

[testrider]

Thanks!

... snip ...

Then apply 1/4" shrink wrap to each spade and about 2" down the wire. With a small tie wrap, tie them together about 1.5" from the connectors.

Did you put a shrink wrap **around** or **below** the female connector?

[rideonXX]

Thanks!

... snip ...

Then apply 1/4" shrink wrap to each spade and about 2" down the wire. With a small tie wrap, tie them together about 1.5" from the connectors.

Did you put a shrink wrap **around** or **below** the female connector?

I'm not sure of the question. But will try to clear up what I meant. The 1/4 pieces cover each female spade connector (there are 5 seperate pieces as you will have removed them from the plastic stock holder). Then, once they are slid onto the male spades in the RR apply the 1st tie wrap (the one that will be trimmed very close and covered with the 3/4 shrink wrap). You can slide the 3/4 shrink wrap up and it will slide under the lip of the plastic female housing on the bottom of the RR. Shrink it up, apply the two outer tie wraps I mentioned----tape and you're good to go.

Hope thal clears things abit. When you get started it will become pretty clear what my feeble attempt to explain is all about. Sorry I'm not a tech writer----but it is a good way to solve the problem when no R1 connectors are readily available. Happy trails kel

[99Birdman]

I'm not sure of the question. But will try to clear up what I meant. The 1/4 pieces cover each female spade connector (there are 5 seperate pieces as you will have removed them from the plastic stock holder). Then, once they are slid onto the male spades in the RR apply the 1st tie wrap (the one that will be trimmed very close and covered with the 3/4 shrink wrap). You can slide the 3/4 shrink wrap up and it will slide under the lip of the plastic female housing on the bottom of the RR. Shrink it up, apply the two outer tie wraps I mentioned----tape and you're good to go.

Hope thal clears things abit. When you get started it will become pretty clear what my feeble attempt to explain is all about. Sorry I'm not a tech writer----but it is a good way to solve the problem when no R1 connectors are readily available. Happy trails kel

Same way I did it on my 99 and I agree, they aren't going anywhere.