ekasXX Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Problem fixed. It was the white connector behind the headlight which is for the ignition switch system. Reconnected the wires and it works perfectly. The way the connection is housed with other connections in the loom, another connection was pressing against the plastic release mechanism on the connector which is probably how it came apart. OK, I'm obviously a new owner, but I need some help. I just bought a 99 Blackbird and everything was working just fine. I was going up and down the street, and under acceleration is felt like it lost all power, but then kicked back in just fine. About a mile later, I was under acceleration again, and everything went dead. No power whatsoever, like someone unplugged the bike. It wouldn't run, the key doesn't do a thing, and no instrument lights or clicks of any kind. I checked all the fuses and jiggled all the wire connections, but nothing changed the completely dead state. Anyone know what this could be? It has a new battery and it seems to have a good charge. Is this possibly the regulator/rectifier gremlin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Have you done a search on Wiring Loom or Harness, the 99 is known to have a bad wiring harness at a connector (don't remember where the connector was). Here is a good writeup... http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/foru...light=wire+loom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdxx Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Go to the top of this forum and open the thread titled "Not automatic...." Download the file and save it on your computer, or open it and look for the wiring schematic for the '99 'Bird, get a voltmeter and work your way from the battery. Just a SWAG would be an intermittent fault around the ignition key. Check your battery connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasXX Posted November 10, 2005 Author Share Posted November 10, 2005 Thanks for those ideas. I will check on them. I will be getting a chance to work on it on Monday. When I find out what is wrong, I will post it here for others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 When I find out what is wrong, I will post it here for others. Do that, it's a lost art nowadays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 I will put on my white lab coat and come over next week.......bwahahahahahaha :twisted: :twisted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasXX Posted November 10, 2005 Author Share Posted November 10, 2005 Paging Dr. Sean........ You bringing your understudy with you too Intern Faingold :raped: or cousin It. Checked on it this morning and it was in Nebraska. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmccoy1 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I had a shop trouble shoot my problem. They told me the stator was bad. Ok, so I ordered one and replaced it myself. 1 week after replacing it my battery died. I had it charged and retested by a Honda shop in town today. They said the battery was holding a charge so it is good from what the shop tells me. I just replaced my stator from electrix. I verified with them that I got the correct one before installing. I tired of having shops give me the run around and taking my cash, but I'm an idiot when it comes to trouble shooting electronics. In the manual it states to unhook the stator from the Rectifier and test each yellow wire. The meter should read 0.1-1.0 ohms. I just installed an new stator so it should be working fine. Also the manual states to test the Rectifier by connecting to the red and white wire + and also ground wire -. Does this mean connecting to the Positive and Negative terminals on the battery? Can that be tested with a regular Radio Shack multimeter? The manual also mentions something about the; Ground line - Green and Ground - Continuity should exist. Help!! Billy Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 One of our members had a great deal of trouble with Electrix. I seem to remember they shipped him the wrong part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Birdman Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I had a shop trouble shoot my problem. They told me the stator was bad. Ok, so I ordered one and replaced it myself. 1 week after replacing it my battery died. I had it charged and retested by a Honda shop in town today. They said the battery was holding a charge so it is good from what the shop tells me. I just replaced my stator from electrix. I verified with them that I got the correct one before installing. I tired of having shops give me the run around and taking my cash, but I'm an idiot when it comes to trouble shooting electronics. In the manual it states to unhook the stator from the Rectifier and test each yellow wire. The meter should read 0.1-1.0 ohms. I just installed an new stator so it should be working fine. Also the manual states to test the Rectifier by connecting to the red and white wire + and also ground wire -. Does this mean connecting to the Positive and Negative terminals on the battery? Can that be tested with a regular Radio Shack multimeter? The manual also mentions something about the; Ground line - Green and Ground - Continuity should exist. Help!!Billy Mac Warchild had some problems with the wrong part from Electrex http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...opic.php?t=9333 but, their troubleshooting guide http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_f...lt_finding.html that he mentioned might help you determine the actual problem. It is much more detailed than the one in the shop manual and it helped me find a bad rectifier. And, yes, you can do it with any digital multimeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmccoy1 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Thanks! Those are easier to understand than the manual! I now have to draw straws on which vehicle to fix first, my truck or bike!! Master cylinder just started leaking on the truck Wed. Damn the luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasXX Posted November 16, 2005 Author Share Posted November 16, 2005 Problem fixed. It was the white connector behind the headlight which is for the ignition switch system. Reconnected the wires and it works perfectly. The way the connection is housed with other connections in the loom, another connection was pressing against the plastic release mechanism on the connector which is probably how it came apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted November 16, 2005 Share Posted November 16, 2005 Problem fixed. It was the white connector behind the headlight which is for the ignition switch system. Reconnected the wires and it works perfectly. The way the connection is housed with other connections in the loom, another connection was pressing against the plastic release mechanism on the connector which is probably how it came apart. THanks for the update. That is a new one. Somebody playing around back there or something? Really odd thing to happen. Maybe too many wheelie or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasXX Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 Actually it happened not to much after an "unintentional" wheelie. I have a photo or two, but couldn't figure out how to post them. I think it was just a fluke thing, I'm just glad I didn't have to pay big bucks to have someone else plug it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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