Helvet Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 BTW: the rear spring gave 1/2" more clearance on the back, and the front spring was about .4" longer and gave some preload. I did not lower the front even thoug it was suggested. TimXX And I strongly recommend you lowering the front a little. It will make the bike go into corners a lot easier, without compromising stability. Try dropping it half an inch. With a little help from a friend it will take you all of ten minutes, and the difference is incredible. Also the braking capacity will be increased! Will lowering the front help even if you haven't modified the suspension? Yes it will help making the bike more agile. On the negative side, it will also make the front fork reach rock-bottom on bumps sooner...... New springs are not expensive, and in my (and most others who have tried) opinion the best money you can spend on your bike..... There is a difference in spring-brands (as you might have guessed I love Hyperpro's), but they are all better than the original! You can try lowering the front a little at first with original springs, and than leter replace the springs and oil..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedlt Posted November 20, 2005 Author Share Posted November 20, 2005 I think I have decided on the wilbers setup with the preload adjuster. Fortunately one of the members has offered a setup to me that was not mounted on an XX. I need to send it back to the factory to get the right spring setup for me. I wish I would have been paying attention when the group buy happened sorry warchild. Another question is there an easy way to change the fork oil without tearing the forks apart and why didn't honda spend a couple of extra dollars and put drains in the bottom of the forks it would have cost what maybe $1.50 per fork and made it a heck of alot easier to to do every year. Oh well I guess its a good winter project thanks for all the information from everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 There is. When you remove the front axle the bolts that hold the fork internals in place also act as the drains for the fork. You wil need to remove the fork caps as well, which will allow the fork oil to drain. You can then remove the springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 obviously I'm really slow into things like this. I've had a good look into the options available in South Africa, and posts on this forum. Now my biggest question is: I see a lot of guys are talking about changing the fork springs. I can understand why and what the difference is between the 2 step and other springs. Now I've been looking more into the Hyper Pro, due to the cost of the parts. It's more affordable to me to get them shipped and then just fit them myself. I did notice that there was mention to replacing the valves. Why would I need to replace the valves, and is it really needed? I'm not looking for a full racing suspension with all the possible adjustments thinkable. I'm also only weighing in at 144 pounds. So being a lightweight and a midget on top of that, what would you suggest? Helvet I've sent you some questions with regards to parts and availability. Please keep in mind that i do not have any experience with suspension, and have never before changed or upgrgaded any of my previous or current bikes suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Bang/buck the best bet is to replace the fork springs, but at your weight, it's probably a waste of money, IMO. If you were 160lbs or more, I'd definitely swap out the front springs, first. At your weight, I'd recommend a re-valve of the front forks to improve ride quality, and more controlled front end action when riding aggressively. After that, go with an aftermarket rear shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 I am about the same weight (75 kilo), and I found the difference with Hyperpro springs shocking! The bike became a lot better i.m.h.o. For a heavier rider the difference probably would be a lot more, but I recommend it to anyone! I first only had the springs and oil done. Two years later I had the oil changed, and the valves reshimmed. The valves made some difference, but it was minor compaired to the springs..... If you know what you are doing, or willing to pay the price to have it done, it's OK. If not, you don't really miss out on something..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedlt Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 Thanks to O Rich for the info I knew there had to be an easier way and my manual doesn't say. :idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodantking Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 10:22 am Post subject: Wilbers setup -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think I have decided on the wilbers setup with the preload adjuster. Fortunately one of the members has offered a setup to me that was not mounted on an XX. I need to send it back to the factory to get the right spring setup for me. I wish I would have been paying attention when the group buy happened sorry warchild W.C. is have a group buy on willbers on the fjrforum. You probly cann't get part for the bird or you all readywould have know about it, but it is worth asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodantking Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Sorry, I got the quote backwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 There is. When you remove the front axle the bolts that hold the fork internals in place also act as the drains for the fork. You wil need to remove the fork caps as well, which will allow the fork oil to drain. You can then remove the springs. Would these the be the four on the bottom of the fork, facing you when you are in front of the bike? What do they hold in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Those 4 bolts you are speaking of just hold the front axle to the tubes. One you drop the front wheel, in the "crecent" shapped section of the fork tubes that hold the front axle is a bolt on each fork tube. That bolt goes right up the lower tube into the internals. The head of the bolt ( should be an allen bolt ) faces the floor from your perspective. When you go to remove that bolt to drain the tube, may I make a suggestion or two? 1) Once you determint the correct size hex ( allen ) key, get one from you local tool store that will fit on a ratchet. Don't use one you may have laying around that has wear on it. Those bolts are tight , and you don't want to take a chance in stripping one out. Not only that but a rachet will allow you more torque to the bolt. It's a better way of doing things than using a pipe or a standard box wrenck on the end of the allen wrench for leverage. 2) Now this tip may be argued by a few others so you need to decide what is best for you. As for draining the fork tubes, you don't have to remove that center bolt all together. You can loosen it up 3-4 turns and slighty prop up the fork tube to let the oil drain out, but there should be a copper washer ( it works like a gasket ) under the head of that bolt. Some people replace that washer whenever ( and all like it in other applications ) any time the bolt is loosened. Keep in mind that if you unscrew that bolt all the way, that the fork tube WILL drop down a couple of inches. This might make re-assembly a little bit more difficult. I have not had a problem with copper washers leaking after re-useage on a low pressure application. If it were a brake line and a banjo bolt , well then, that's another story. Never take chances on the brakes. You might want to stop by your local dealer or mail order place and replace those washers for peace of mind , but I never had one leak after I re- assembled a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Those 4 bolts you are speaking of just hold the front axle to the tubes. One you drop the front wheel, in the "crecent" shapped section of the fork tubes that hold the front axle is a bolt on each fork tube. That bolt goes right up the lower tube into the internals. The head of the bolt ( should be an allen bolt ) faces the floor from your perspective. When you go to remove that bolt to drain the tube, may I make a suggestion or two?1) Once you determint the correct size hex ( allen ) key, get one from you local tool store that will fit on a ratchet. Don't use one you may have laying around that has wear on it. Those bolts are tight , and you don't want to take a chance in stripping one out. Not only that but a rachet will allow you more torque to the bolt. It's a better way of doing things than using a pipe or a standard box wrenck on the end of the allen wrench for leverage. 2) Now this tip may be argued by a few others so you need to decide what is best for you. As for draining the fork tubes, you don't have to remove that center bolt all together. You can loosen it up 3-4 turns and slighty prop up the fork tube to let the oil drain out, but there should be a copper washer ( it works like a gasket ) under the head of that bolt. Some people replace that washer whenever ( and all like it in other applications ) any time the bolt is loosened. Keep in mind that if you unscrew that bolt all the way, that the fork tube WILL drop down a couple of inches. This might make re-assembly a little bit more difficult. I have not had a problem with copper washers leaking after re-useage on a low pressure application. If it were a brake line and a banjo bolt , well then, that's another story. Never take chances on the brakes. You might want to stop by your local dealer or mail order place and replace those washers for peace of mind , but I never had one leak after I re- assembled a set. You've never actually done this, have you? Couple things- The drain bolt is a 6mm allen. A standard socket type allen is nowhere near long enough to reach the bolt. The best way is to make the appropriate extended allen socket and use an impact wrench, more on that later, I'm short on time. Leaving the bolt in saves nothing once it's loose, but the threads will act as a pretty handy filter to keep all that crap inside your forks. I'd recommennd against this. Removing the drain bolt completely will have no effect on the height of the forks, nor will effect the difficulty of the rest of the project. Removing the forks caps will have the instant and dramatic effect of completely dropping the front end should it not be unloaded and up in the air, they hold the weight up, not the drain bolts. Personally, I'd recommend removing the forks completely for service. Once you pull the wheel you're halfway there anyway, and it makes draining, cleaning and filling them to the correct level waaaay easier. I'll post more detailed instuctions later if anyone is interested. Reading the manual is also very helpful if you have access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Yes please on the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I have pulled the cartridges and springs 3 or 4 times without removing the forks. One trick is to leave the caps on till you take out the bolt in the bottom. I think the spring preasure help keep the cartridge from turning. The only touble i have ever had leaving the forks on is the nose piece falling off the cartridge when you lower it it . I fished it with a wire , no big deal. Make sure you have a way to use your torque wrench when you tighten the 6 mm bolt. I forget the torque number but it was a lot higher then i dared tighten the 6mm bolt the first time with out the torque wrench. (it was weeping a bit till i use the torque wrench on it ) I just did it by feel the first time and got it too loose. Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Im happy the way my revalved f4 shock with the 1100 pound spring turned out. Im going to do some more tweaking of the compression stack this winter, its still a little stiff and im running the adjuster wide open. If you like to play it might be worth trying if like messing with stuff. I would be scared to rip a part a $1200 cdn ohlins but i have 2 spare f4 shocks besides the one im running. You can find them on ebay for abot $20, or at least you could last fall. Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 why do you put in lighter fork oil and not heavier? Is this to make the forks and springs respond quicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Lighter oil makes the forks more compliant, it removes both compression and rebound damping. People usually say the xx springs are too soft but also have 2 much compression damping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Lighter oil makes the forks more compliant, it removes both compression and rebound damping. People usually say the xx springs are too soft but also have 2 much compression damping. That is correct. All suppliers sell thinner oil, and stiffer springs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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