Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Getting Ready to Change Coolant...


Animal Mother

Recommended Posts

Well, this will be my first time doing this, so I did a search and read through all of the other posts concerning this topic. I also read Dale's FJR post about a thousand times :lol: Unfortunately, I did not gather all the information I needed on my initial search, so that is why I am posting this.

To reiterate, this is my first time doing the coolant, and I am FAR from being a gearhead like many of the riders here :oops: So, go easy on me :P

Ok, I have Dale's post up along with the manual (thanks Joe!). I have reread and looked at both many times, and I think I got it, but am hoping that anyone out there can correct me, or provide better advice/assistance where you see fit!

From the looks of it, I have to remove both the left and right lowers. The right (as sitting on the bike) to access the radiator cap and siphon hose (for the reserve tank), and the left to access the water pump coolant drain and cylinder head drain bolt.

I dont have my bike with me at the present time, but the cylinder head drain bolt appears to be on the left side kind of behind a bend in the lower radiator hose. Am I correct here (as the diagram is kind of sketchy to me)? Also, it says to replace the sealing washer; can I just get this at the dealership? I should also replace the sealhing washer on the coolant pump, no? If anyone has them, would they be so kind as to provide part numbers and sizes for these items?

So it then looks like I need to replace the OLD drain bolts and washers and then do the blowjob action with the distilled water (as per Dale's article). I take it that I need to take out both drain bolts again, or just the water pump one?

Ohh, I guess I am supposed to drain the reserve prior to the blowjob action.

When the flush is done, just replace drain plugs (with the NEW washers) for the last time and fill coolant and reserve to the proper level, right? Then do the start and warm up followed by the throttle blips to get rid of any bubbles. Let cool and then check levels, and refill if necessary.

Well, I think I got it all.

Could anyone provide a tool/parts list if its not too much trouble? I would like to make just one trip to the dealership if possible. I think I know them all, but just want to be safe!

Thanks a lot for any and all help 8)

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#29 is the drain bolt for the coolant. I've never replaced that washer.

waterpump.jpg

Remove both lowers

Remove radiator cap

Put catch basin under the water pump.

Remove #29. Keep an eye on that washer, make sure it comes off with the bolt

Coolant will drain. It squirts out a fair bit, so make sure your catch basin is big enough.

Perform blowjob manuver. Note that it WILL blow coolant all over the place.

Remove coolant bottle hose on right side, drain coolant from overflow bottle. Replace hose.

Replace #29 with washer.

Fill coolant. While filling, occasionally squeeze radiator hoses to get as much air out of the system as possible.Once it won't bubble any more, it's as full as it's going to get.

Fill overflow container.

Start bike.

Blip throttle a few times. Run it up to 5k+ rpms. Coolant level should drop dramatically. Turn bike off.

Top off coolant. Replace cap.

At this point, I usualy start the bike and let it get warm. It should heat up pretty much like normal. IF it's getting REALLY hot, you most likely have an air bubble. Kill the bike, wait till it cools down a bit, and open the radiator cap. top it off again, and try the start/let get warm test again.

Replace fairings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rich, you forgot the drain on the front of the block.

:oops:

It's in my service manual. But I can't find that one on the Ron Ayers fiche... Can anyone help?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rich,

Thanks a lot for posting that; always nice to get a second opinion.

I saw the drain bolt for the cylinder head, but the picture is not too good in the manual that Joe posted. I mean, it cant be that hard to see it when the plastic is removed, right? I am sure it is the only bolt sticking out on the left front-side of the cylinder head, no?

Also, did you keep the cylinder head bolt out when you did the blowjob, or did you put it back in and just leave the water pump drain bolt out?

Thanks again.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rich,

Thanks a lot for posting that; always nice to get a second opinion.

I saw the drain bolt for the cylinder head, but the picture is not too good in the manual that Joe posted. I mean, it cant be that hard to see it when the plastic is removed, right? I am sure it is the only bolt sticking out on the left front-side of the cylinder head, no?

Also, did you keep the cylinder head bolt out when you did the blowjob, or did you put it back in and just leave the water pump drain bolt out?

Thanks again.

Steve

Yea, it's pretty obvious. The picture in the service manual doesn't make it seem easy to find, but once you get the fairings off, you shouldn't have any trouble. Doesn't look like anyone has found it on the parts fiche.

And I left it out during the blowjob, although it just helps get the extra stuff out of the bottom of the radiator, which is really going to cause the coolant to come out of the water pump drain, so it really won't matter that much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use