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Replacing drive chain


FloridaSilverBird

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I was finally going to get it together and run to a dealer to have my chain replaced. So I got there and asked the guy at the counter how long and how much and he said that i'd have to leave it there for a while and it would take him an hour and $75! Is it just me or is that stupid as hell? So I said no thanks, i'll do it myself... so..

How much do the relevant tools cost to do it myself and where can I get them?

Thanks.

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This is the one I have, I like it.

Do yourself a favor and order an extra master link first time you do it. Remember you're playing with a component of the bike that has serious consequenses should it fail. Kinda like a tire :wink:

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This is the one I have, I like it.

Do yourself a favor and order an extra master link first time you do it. Remember you're playing with a component of the bike that has serious consequenses should it fail. Kinda like a tire :wink:

I've got that same tool. Excellent quality and ease of use. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! And order an extra masterlink in cas you cock the first one up. Just ask J Red what happens when a chain fails.

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I just did my first chain. Purchase the Motion Pro Jumbo tool. They think a lot of it. White Buffalo Racing has a better price. A wrench in town showed me his tool, a pipe flaring tool and a piece of metal for the back side of the chain. I am glad I purchased the tool. The tool was incomplete when I got it and I tried to use it without the anvil that the link rests on. ORDER the second link. It worked much better when they shipped me the anvil. You will also be suprise as to how little force it takes to stake the chain. Go slow, measure often. I have seen people saying they used a impact wrench on the tool. I would suggest not. I cut the old chain off with a dremel tool, and cut off my buggered link the same way. If you are changing sprokets, don't forget to break loose the front sproket bolt before you remove the chain. I would use a six point socket on that bolt, it is really on there.

Good Luck

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Be very carefull putting the link on it if fails you can crack your cases REALLY fast....

Yes, by all means don't cock it up. We're talking pretty big money if you do.

The manual has a pretty decent how-to about this. This is one component that has an attitude if you don't respect it.

Good advice thus far, here's mine:

I have the DID chain tool, which is specifically for the DID chain and their link pins. But I'm sure the MP tool will work fine.

Order two master links, if you don't end up using #2, you will have a spare for later.

Best advice is, measure often, and remove the master if you've over crushed the links.

J.

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I left out the d at the end of purchased. I did purchase a MP. The DID is less expensive and made for the DID chain. I noticed when ordering that I could get a $30.00 option to the tool that gives me that FACTORY 4 point crimp look. What is that about? My DID chain has neat round rivets. Is there a different link, with a harder material for that 30 dollar extra tool?

I will learn to spill / spell one day.

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One more thing that may help also. If you're going to change your rear sprocket, make sure to loosen the bolts on the old one before you take the wheel off. They are torqued down pretty tight and if the wheel is not secured, unless you have an impact wrench, it will be a pain in the ass to undo those bolts. Reverse the order when putting it back together - mount the wheel first, then tighten as specified. Good luck

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One more thing that may help also. If you're going to change your rear sprocket, make sure to loosen the bolts on the old one before you take the wheel off.

Ssssshhhhhh, let 'em learn that the hard way, experience is the best teacher...

Oh shit, i learned that back a Kwack MachIII back in '70, how old am i?

O never mind...

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I've heard that you should always replace the sprockets along with the chain.  What parts come with the 'Chain Kit' or 'Chain Set'? 06405-MAT-P00 , 06405-MAT-P10, Items 26, 27, 28 )

Looks like you get the chain, the master link and both sprockets. Tough to say from that diagram. I'd call before ordering just to be sure.

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Stock rear sprocket is good for at least two chains, maybe three.

Mine came off at 40k and still looked almost new. I got 19k out of my first chain and 21k out of the second, so don't let them sell you any "advanced wear" crap using the old sprocket.

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I've heard that you should always replace the sprockets along with the chain.  What parts come with the 'Chain Kit' or 'Chain Set'? 06405-MAT-P00 , 06405-MAT-P10, Items 26, 27, 28 )

I ordered and used the Honda chain kit. Be aware that the chain in this kit is a DID ZVS not a DID ZVM. They are both good chains but they are not the same chain. The pins on the ZVM are slightly larger in diameter. (Don't ask me how I know. I missed the first MegaXX learning this lesson.)

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