marquis

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/detail.aspx?ID=297 That's where I got mine. Brian Lewis is a good guy.

Looks like you get the chain, the master link and both sprockets. Tough to say from that diagram. I'd call before ordering just to be sure.

One more thing that may help also. If you're going to change your rear sprocket, make sure to loosen the bolts on the old one before you take the wheel off. They are torqued down pretty tight and if the wheel is not secured, unless you have an impact wrench, it will be a pain in the ass to undo those bolts. Reverse the order when putting it back together - mount the wheel first, then tighten as specified. Good luck

How old is the battery? Could be it's not getting charged anymore. I would put a meter on it and make sure it has the full voltage needed to turn the engine over. If that's not the problem, see if you are getting any spark.

Bobcat with a hydraulic hammer will do it in one day 8) Seriously, that's the right equipment for this size job. If you are worried about the foundation wall, you can do some hand work there to isolate the joint a little. But to do it all with that little hammer might take awhile.

Just to follow up, my connection for the press and riveter did not come through, so I went to work on the link with a pair of vise-grips and a c-clamp with a small nut (thanks, Pete). I was able to press the plate on without a problem, but I still had to smash the pin tops... Enter a 6 inch c-clamp :shock: After almost breaking my right hand thumb, I was able to stake the pins out to 5.45 mm. The manual call for anywhere between 5.5 and 5.8 mm for a DID link. I think I'm good to go, any objections?

Got a 5 inch c-clamp. Probably not enough to squeeze it, though. I had the thing in a 3 inch vise and I gave up when the handle bent a little. But I'll give the clamp and nut a shot, thanks, Pete. I live the the NE, around Stroudsburg.

Thanks, Porter. Seems like it's going to take a lot of torque to operate that press/rivet tool. Can I hook it up to an impact wrench ? Kidding, I'll knock it out once I get it here. Thanks again.

Hey All, Question for those who have changed their own chains or just know how it's done... is the cover plate for the master link supposed to be impossible to slide over the pins without a chain press?! Again, I'm not talking about staking the pins, just putting a link plate over them so they can be staked. Found it to be a major project just getting the pins to come out on the other side of the holes..did not force them :? Am I missing something here (except the chain press, which I'm still waiting on)? Thanks for the help Mark

Thanks, all. They are quite an improvement from stockers. The other day, just pulling the bike into the garage, I almost went through the back wall because I hit the lever kinda hard :shock: The bike stopped on a dime and my ass just kept moving forward :grin: The hardest thing now is not abusing this power during the break-in :cool: Thanks again, everyone.

So I trashed the stock front brake pads and put in EBC's HHs. The recommendation on the bed-in time is 250 miles of "around town" riding, which probably means average to low speeds and frequent brake use. My question is: can I occasionally blast down a freeway or will this glaze the pads? Or will it just take longer to get the pads worn in? It is harder than I thought it would be to put 250 miles on the bike just riding from stop light to stop light. Definitely a very concious effort :roll:

If you are not required by code to dig footers, look into this: www.deckplans.com BUT... I would talk to someone who built a deck that way first and have a look at the finished project to see how it holds up

Thanks, everyone. I use Maxima on a hot chain and let set overnight, so :???: Must be over-applying cos I see some drip off the chain right away when I rotate it to spread the wax out. Anyway, after seeing CS's bike :shock: I don't even feel like washing mine, it ain't never going to look that good anyway :sad: Carlos

Can you guys share your secrets for removing the wax that drips/flies off the chain and crystalizes on the bottom of the left panel, pipe and kickstand??? I could take a gasket scraper to it, but that seems like such a pedestrian approach Maybe there is some sort of chemical that'll soften it up so it could just be scooped off? Or is elbow grease the only way to get rid of it? Thanks for any advice.

Yeah, I heard about you guys :grin: Pillaging this beautiful area; regret I wasn't a part of it Definitely NEXXT time, no excuses. Maybe if I feed'em, Dave and Don won't have to rape me for being delinquent the last two times

How about a quick hang-off move? That should do it. :razz: But, yeah, it's mostly psychological - just knowing that the seat is loose would make me nervous and distracted. I live around Tannersville in the Poconos.

How do you lose a seat that you're sitting on? Some get up on the pegs to stretch their legs...surprise, seat blown away from right under your ass :shock: I saw Jessie James lose it that way on one of his high $ choppers.