Disolut Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Okay, I'm stumped. I have bled the entire system round twice, per the manual: Front brake lever: 1) left front brake caliper upper bleed valve (bled clear) 2) right front brake caliper upper bleed valve (stream/cloud of small air bubbles no matter how much I bled it out, refilling the master cylinder at least six times) Rear brake pedal: 3) right front brake caliper center bleed valve (bled clear) 4) left front brake caliper upper bleed valve (stream of tiny air bubbles no matter how much I bleed it) 5) rear brake caliper center bleed valve (bled it clear) 6) rear brake caliper 'outer' (rearmost) bleed valve (bled it clear having pumped the rear brake and held it down as described in the manual, no problem) Rear brake seems to function OK; front brake is mushy, does not immediately engage. Am at my wit's end. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be introducing air into the system, or where? Or whether it's a different problem? I can see no evidence of leakage anywhere. For the record, Spiegler kit, brakes functioned fine prior to installing the new lines, new OEM pads. All lines and line connections have been torqued to spec. Kept the OEM line bleeders. I look forward to the inevitable cries of "Sell it!", "Ask Nik to help", and "D) Hookers". Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 you forgot TIRES CUPPED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disolut Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 Damn, you're right, I did forget the tire's cupped. (It really is, too.) Addendum: took her out for a little spin, seems to me that the front brake response is still somewhat mushy and there's a lot more travel on the front lever than I'd like before the brakes engage. Any ideas on how to tighten things up and increase the feel? Besides vaginal reconstruction surgery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Try bleeding it from the master cylinder banjo bolt and where the line ties into the block on the forks....any spot that can hold air. Porter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Remove the caliper, remove the brake pads,slowly squeeze the lever till the pistons are almost out, then squeeze the pistons all the way back in. This reverse flow process has worked for me after doing a master cylinder overhaul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Try bleeding it from the master cylinder banjo bolt and where the line ties into the block on the forks....any spot that can hold air. Â How do you do that without getting fluid on your paint? Fluid on the paint is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Try bleeding it from the master cylinder banjo bolt and where the line ties into the block on the forks....any spot that can hold air. Â How do you do that without getting fluid on your paint? Fluid on the paint is bad. Take a shop towel and place it underneath. Crack the bolt just enough to let the air/ fluid out...do it with the same procedure as regular brake bleeding. Porter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Are you bleeding it with a pump, or are you doing it the old fashion way. Final bleed should be the old fashion way, even with speed bleeders. Front brake should be the easiest to bleed. Pump level until you get resistance, then just barely crack the bleeder and before the lever bottoms out close the bleeder. Pump it up till the lever stops and do it again. I bled mine until they were working and safe to ride but more squish than I wanted. Then rode it 1/2 hour, bled it again. Did this 2x and put new pads in and there is less than 1" lever movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disolut Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 thanks, Dano. I'm going to give your ideas a shot and hopefully get the brakes all tight and touchy once and for all. We'll see how it goes tonight. And man, am I getting good at this bleeding thing... I used a pump bleeder on everything and then manually pumped the rear brake pedal for the final touch, just like it says in the manual. -N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 am I getting good at this bleeding thing...-N. Apparently NOT!!! Nuthin Butt Love. MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disolut Posted August 2, 2005 Author Share Posted August 2, 2005 Tonight after another round of brake bleeding and a short shakedown ride I noticed what looks like a leak from the secondary master cylinder. Well, it might explain the air bubbles in the lines, at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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