jrdxx Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 You might also want to spray the nut with some penetrating oil and wait a day or so before you try to loosen the nut again, just in case you have some corrosion or galling going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 Do you have a torque wrench to properly tighten it back with? I got mine at Sears...you could actually use it to loosen the nut. IIRC it has a 250 ft/lb limit. I'm gonna buy a torque wrench too.....but why would a torque wrench help in loosening the nut??? NEVER break torque using a torque wrench. you will simply fuck its calibration all up. I think he means a torque wrench will help the next time you get it off, as you and make sure its not overtorqued when you put it back on. GOOD, somebody beat me to saying that! Mike +3!!! NEVER use your tourqe wrenck to loosen ANYTHING! And if it's a click type always wind it down to zero for storage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted August 2, 2005 Author Share Posted August 2, 2005 I bought everything matey_peeps suggested (Thanks, Matey!) at Harbor and then some....breaker bar, torque wrench and a sweet set of socket extensions. I adjusted the chain and have a lot less gear whine now. The only problem is my torque wrench never clicked as I tightened the axle nut and I felt like it was definitely tight enough. I tested out tightening a bolt on my bench press at 40lbs/ft to see if it would click when I hit the spec and it never did.....the bolt just broke in half. So I didn't want the same to happen on the bike so I tighten it enuff...don't know if it's 69lbs/ft but it's tight enough. Next week scorpion slip-ons and pcIII and Ohlins springs up front... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonW Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Most cheap hand tools are okay for the shadetree mechanic, but I wouldn't skimp too much on a torque wrench as you found out. Good thing you realized the problem before you broke something too serious. Crapsman is about the cheapest I'd go on a torque wrench and I've even seen my share of them be waaaay off on calibration. Enough to break a head bolt on a big block Ford (of course the user should have felt something wasn't right, but nonetheless.....) You're probably good to go with the axle torque, as long as you made sure to sinch down the adjuster bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonox Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Do you have a torque wrench to properly tighten it back with? I got mine at Sears...you could actually use it to loosen the nut. IIRC it has a 250 ft/lb limit. I'm gonna buy a torque wrench too.....but why would a torque wrench help in loosening the nut??? NEVER break torque using a torque wrench. you will simply fuck its calibration all up. I think he means a torque wrench will help the next time you get it off, as you and make sure its not overtorqued when you put it back on. GOOD, somebody beat me to saying that! Mike +3!!! NEVER use your tourqe wrenck to loosen ANYTHING! And if it's a click type always wind it down to zero for storage. the bi-directional click types can be used in either direction, BUT ONLY if they are set to a torque setting higher than what you are undoing - ie if it clicks and you still haven't moved it, set it higher or give up. Generally it is not considered kosher to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, but if you have nothing else, go for it. You will only screw the calibration if you leave it unset and then lean on it. And has been said already, slack it off before you store it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 so you can't use a tw on left threads????? bs then why do they change directions?????? I always take apart with torque wrench at the correct setting . will tell you a lot about how to assemble also,,,ie lube with what lube and where to lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Do you have a torque wrench to properly tighten it back with? I got mine at Sears...you could actually use it to loosen the nut. IIRC it has a 250 ft/lb limit. I'm gonna buy a torque wrench too.....but why would a torque wrench help in loosening the nut??? NEVER break torque using a torque wrench. you will simply fuck its calibration all up. I think he means a torque wrench will help the next time you get it off, as you and make sure its not overtorqued when you put it back on. GOOD, somebody beat me to saying that! Mike +3!!! NEVER use your tourqe wrenck to loosen ANYTHING! And if it's a click type always wind it down to zero for storage. the bi-directional click types can be used in either direction, BUT ONLY if they are set to a torque setting higher than what you are undoing - ie if it clicks and you still haven't moved it, set it higher or give up. Generally it is not considered kosher to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, but if you have nothing else, go for it. You will only screw the calibration if you leave it unset and then lean on it. And has been said already, slack it off before you store it. This is true as long as you MAKE SURE you have the TW turned all the way up and DO NOT let it click! If it does click, stop pushing... after it clicks and you still turn on it, THAT is when it starts to lose it's calibration... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXMAN Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 I would use a breaker bar if that did not loosen it I would add pipe to the end of the breaker bar for more leverage. Using some lube woudn't hurt either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Ok now here's one thing to learn out of this. When you replace any metal parts or objects as mentioned in this, next time make sure that you do use copperslip before you replace the parts!! This will ensure that the parts stay in a movable, good condition and will also be able to be taken, unscrewed at a later stage. Oh and don't use the cheap shit - buy the right, real copper compaind copperslip. The best ones comes from Germany... A tin will last you nearly a lifetime and it's well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Agreed. I like anti-seize, however many folks here don't. In fact, I use it on my brake caliper bolts (I'm sure people are cringing as I say this) but I've had more brake caliper bolts be siezed by heat and expansion than I care to remember. A little dab of antisieze and snugged to the proper spec and I've never had one come out on me in 100,000 miles among various bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
county Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 The lug nut wrench on a 1997 Saturn will fit over the handle of the tool kit wrench and provide enough extension for ample leverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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