county

99 Blackbird with Progressive front springs, Heli bars, Superbrace, heated grips, Hawke oiler, acc plug and some things i am forgetting. Very Good condition, ~40,000 miles NADA $3840. I no longer ride distance and this bike is really not for riding around town. I am looking for something lighter. Will consider most anything from 250cc up but am looking for something along the lines of an SV650 naked. Will trade up or down. No guns, trucks, cars or projects...my bike is registered and running, yours should be also.

Thanks for the assistance but I checked the kill switch instead and it started right up..... Although the bank angle thing was going to be next...

So, headlite and dash lites come on but the FI lite won't go out....I don't hear the normal cycling that happens before the lite goes out ... and pressing the starter causes nothing to happen.... Any help appreciated....

1999 Blackbird, ~39,000 miles, Bagster tank cover and bag, SuperBrace fork brace, Progressive forks springs, heated grips, chain oiler, accessory plug, Cheetah and original windshield and a Give (?). Will include an IB plate bracket Got a couple of scratches on rear cowl. Maybe 3-4 inches long that I toned down with touch up paint. Looks good for age and miles. I no longer ride distance and would like to trade for something like a Speed Triple...will consider a metric cruiser....willing to put some cash with the Blackbird. Am located in Memphis, TN

The guy at Batteries Plus claimed the battery showed good. I told him it wouldn't crank the bike and he needed to put a load on it....he just gave me a new battery....which fixed the problem... My thinking is that if the old battery showed good and a new battery cranked the bike then the problem is likely with the battery...anyway the bike is running and cranking fine so I have elected to leave well enough alone. Appreciate the assistance.

This morning I was at the grocery and came out and bike wouldn't crank....just made a clack noise and the dash lights went out. So, I call a buddy and he comes with a truck and says why don't we try jumping it first and goes for the cables and while he is getting cables....I try it and it cranks...I take it home and put it on a slow charge for a few hours and go out a few minutes ago and try cranking and same thing...turn on ignition, wait on FI lite, hit the starter and clack and the dash lites go out...turn ignition off and try turning it on again and no lites of any kind... Comments...

And WHICH Black :icon_think: It's Bird Black

Front cowl has crack about a foot long ending at air intake $120 shipped Lower right has about 6 inch crack next to vent, this piece has been repainted has some orange peal, and some nasty scratches Decal is a bit marred. $70 shipped All mounting tabs are good. Givi Windshield is like new, maybe 3000 miles on the bike $70 shipped Stock bars $50 plus shipping (I got no idea of cost for shipping) Stock screen like new $100 shipped This stuff is offa 99 Blackbird.

I duuno if I posted about this but in late Sep I collided with a German shepherd and his head and shoulder broke the right lower and front fairing/cowl. Anyway the insurance co is sending a check and Ron Ayers is the cheapest I've seen. Suggestions or comments. (About the repair parts, not the dog) Also, anything to look out for when removing and installing the cowl. Your consideration is much appreciated.

Well, I got fur stuck in cracks on the cowl and side panel...and it doesn't look good. I'll tell you it kinda made me nervous having 100 plus pounds of dog coming at me full tilt. And it surprised me when he got up and ran back into his yard. The fucker was out there sunning himself today when I drove by. I'm wondering what he's gonna do the next time I come by on the bike.

Thanx. I dropped the comprehensive just this year on the bike cause Geico jumped it to over $1000 per year on a 99 model. Hopefully the dog's owner will either pay me off or turn it over to his homeowners insurance. I haven't been in contact yet...I think he's out of town as no response to my note or answer to his phone. How much work is involved in replacing that front cowl? I got a manual but want to hear somebody say it's easy or it's a lotta work?

Fcuker was over 100 pounds easy. Came at me like he really wanted me. I slowed a bit as he approached then accelerated but the fcuker collided with the right lower and the front cowl and broke them both. I kept the bike up and saw him get up and run back into the yard with the electric fence he came out of. Anyway, that was the fun part. Now, where is a good place to get the front cowl, right lower and decal (Does decal come on the panel)? I already called a local shop's parts department and and they are talking over $1000 for parts listed above.

I imagine you can get PVC that'll work with/hold gasoline, they make it for all kinds of caustic industrial applications, I'd be leary of using plastic pipe from Home Depot.

CCT and low beam bulb, also once in Maryland the bike refused to start. I was gonna post my problem here for help but decided to take a chance so I flipped the kill switch off myself. That seemed to resolve the problem. So far. (37,000 miles)

I run Pilot Roads for the mileage and the rain grip. 10K+ miles on rear, replace front ~every other rear.

FWIW, I added heated grips that I bought from Aerostitch (don't remember the brand) and the right gets a lot warmer than the left, in fact it gets downright hot. When I called them about this I was told that heated grips are made for the right (throttle) to be warmer than the left. On my other bike with factory heated grips there isn't much difference but the right does seem to get a bit warmer.

I hadda Givi and took it off cause of the helmet lift and buffeting and I got raised bars. All those shields you listed are not going where you wanna go. Expecially if you lift them bars up enough to go to a "standard riding position. And if you do that I don't know how the pegs will work. And if you lift them bars and get a big windshield you are gonna have a strange looking bike. You can probably pick up some of those big Givi bags second hand and that'll really set off the tall w/s (If you find one...maybe just buy one from JC Whitney and mount it in front of the stocker) You really need another bike. IMO. You can really only go so far modifying these specialized bikes before it becomes counter productive...for instance, if you were to get some kinda tall screen on the Bird you could very well eat it if you used the Bird's power and speed.

Those aerostitch vests (and most others) draw between 3 & 4 amps/~45 watts. Did you get one of the inflatable vests? That's what I'd buy if I was buying one today. I got the fleece vest w/on-off switch.

So, I'm riding back to Memphis in the rain yesterday (from Eureka Springs, AR)...300 long wet miles. And, after a gas stop I look down and see my high beam lite is on, so I look at the switch and it's showing low beam. So I filp the switch to high beam and then back to low beam and the indicator lite goes off. Anyway, a hundred or so miles later I see it's on again (after another stop) so I flip the switch on and then off and it goes out again. So I get into W. Memphis, AR and it's raining so hard that I can't hardly see and interstate traffic is slowed down to like 35 MPH and I figure I'll get a bit more visible so I turn on the high beam and leave it on til I get home (This is daylight). When I get to the house I check the lamp(s) and both high and low are on, I switch off high, only low is on, I play with switch and all seems to work...WTF? How's that lamp working with the switch off? Anybody else experience this?

Well, sidestand or centerstand, I think we can all agree that you need to have your boot on if you are checking with your toe...even though the manual doesn't specify.

I had that problem but then I started putting in my Shure e2's and starting my CD player before cranking the bike. Now that noise is gone.

Toe, with boot on, is good. Finger works too but it gets dirty if you don't have glove on. As far as that sidestand stuff, the manual also says to check tension at several points along the chain to make sure the tension is even (otherwise you may have kinks). I find that easier to do on centerstand. Like posted above, a locking tape stood up under the chain is what I use for adjustment.

So I take the old one out and stick a screwdriver down in it and retract the plunger thing and then I stick the screwdriver down in the new one before putting the cap bolt on it and twist it...and they feel about the same to me, WTF? Does the few oz's of pressure or whatever it is that makes the noise go away make any real difference? If I let it just make the noise will my bike explode? Enquiring minds wanna know, and me too.

Only time I checked was 38-40 MPG running 80-115 mph on the interstate, probably averaging 85-90. I was pleased to get that kinda average over many hundreds of miles.

Well, I replaced my CCT today and to get to it I hadda saw these fasteners off. Since I posted about these as a aftermarket fastener I thought I'd mention this. Sorry if I caused anybody any inconvenience. I had them on the bottom holding the side fair/panels together up front where it takes two fasteners. I unscrewed on those motherfuckers for a while and reached up there and squeezed like a motherfucker and still couldn't get them out. I put a screwdriver under the lip and tried to pry them out, no luck but I got them loose enough to get my hacksaw under the head and presto, they came right out after I sawed the fuckers in half.