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front end shimmy


Pennywise

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I have a wobble in the front end when I am decelerating. I have changed tires, I have had the tire balanced, the rim is not warped or has the bike been down.. any ideas???

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You have a rear luggage rack, yes?

No I dont anymore... It would wobble with or without the rack or luggage on the bike...

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Guest rockmeupto125

That's about all that's left....check the steering head bearings.

Also check the clearance on the left side caliper with the feeler gauge supplied with the tool kit....as described in the owners manual.

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Could be lots of stuff:

Bad rear swingarm bearing

Bad front tire

bad rear tire

terrible geometry

shot head bearings

loose head bearings

low tire pressure

front wheel bearings

Most likely it's simply the head bearings out of adjustment, start with that and make sure o pack them well while in there.

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My bike had no wobble... I put avons on, and left the dealership with a wobble.

I may have gotten a bad tire, or maybe my steering bearings were bad, and because of the criss cross tread on the avons, the wobble became evident, where-as on teh stock bt57's which have a center groove on the front tire it wasn't.

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I have the same wobble. Been meaning to check the steering bearings, maybe it's time. The manual indicates you need a special "steering stem socket" to adjust the torque. Is there another way or do I have to pop for the socket? If so, does anyone have an idea what the cost might be? Also, do you go through the exercise of adjusting the preload with a spring scale as shown?

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The manual indicates you need a special "steering stem socket" to adjust the torque.  Is there another way or do I have to pop for the socket?  

Crude, but effective:

Hammer & chisel. Adjust the bearings so you have some preload, but can turn the steering head relatively freely with some resistance. Measure the resistance with the front end off the ground, and forks removed, preferrably.

Honda calls for too much preload, IMO, so be careful you don't overtorque them.

Keep adjusting and measuring until you get to a point where moving the bars doesn't feel like too much effort, but there is definitely preload on the bearings. It's a fine line, and hard to describe, so you may have to experiment.

Recheck them in about 1000 miles.

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Mike,

The tool isn't needed. I am really anal about geting things perfect with my torque-wrench but that adjustment you don't need the tool or fishing scale, do it by feel. Tapered bearings are the shit if they need to be replaced.

They may just need repacking and adjusting though. Even if they are fine it would still be a good idea to repack them and it's not a chore so I would suggest starting there.

As for the infamous Avon shimmies, had them on both bikes when the tires are new. At low speeds, those under about 15 mph, the bikes feels really odd at first. This goes away after only about 500 miles. That was the only negaive I've found with those tires adn I could asily live with it. There are a few sets of defective tires adn Avon was quick to help out in those situations standing behind their product. Seems like their QC is much better now though.

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Thanks Chris and Steve.  Guess I have a project for next weekend.
Thank all of you,I guess I will have some work to do also, to include ,"I just bought some avons the other day" .. havent mounted them yet but will include that to , checking bearings, I am at 15,000 anyway , its just that time. The prior owner didnt have aclue about the shimmy, but then again he only had 4800 miles on the bike when I bought it from him last year!!! hah Thanks again Pennywise, trample the weak!!! Hurtle the dead!!!!
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There are a few sets of defective tires adn Avon was quick to help out in those situations standing behind their product.

FWIW, Avon did send me a new front. I just haven't gotten it mounted.

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There appear to be a LOT of dynamics going on all at once with this no hands decell. shimmy. They all add to it, but the cause is loose and notchy steering head bearings.

I still haven't done mine, but I know I have a notch in the straight ahead position.

Just raise your front end so you can turn the forks. SLOWLY turn the bars back and forth and feel for a notch at straight ahead. I bet more bikes have it then those that don't.

I just live with mine, don't ride with hands off at that speed. It varies with which tires, their wear, etc.

Tappered bearings is the fix for this I know, just got to do it. Maybe next winter. :roll:

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no kiddin'? I just got a set of Avons and I now have a "no hands shimmy." I thought it was maybe the tire out of balance, or the fact that my left caliper is .002 out and the right is .032 out. I guess its just the nature of the beast with those Avons. Oh, and I probably need to check my bearings also, seeing as I have 23k on it and I bought it at 7300!

What do those tapered bearings go for and where can I get them?

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Yes. "All Balls". If I recall it cost be about $75 to have the Dealer install them for me. Of course they were too loose so I had to snug them up when I got home. I also noticed a slight decel wobble after installing Avons then noticed I had notched bearings.

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I have a wobble in the front end when I am decelerating.

Probably when you take your hands off the grips right? Many bikes do this around 45-50mph. Don't take your hands off the grips then.:grin:

As far as adjusting your steering head bearings, if your gonna pound on the nut with the bike assembled use a brass punch.

Raise the front of the bike and grab the forks. There shouldn't be any play. If they're real loose you will hear them over railroad tracks and when braking over bumps.

Grabbing the forks turn them side to side, there shouldn't be any binding or roughness. If there is they are probably too tight. They should move smoothly and easily.

When your coasting at slow speed (like that is often on the XX) take your hands off the grips (I know I said don't do this) and your bike should track straight provided the road isn't crowned too much. If the bearings are too tight the bars will need constant correction.

Although, I do have to ask what's wrong with adjusting with a torque wrench and the service manual?

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