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Bleeding brake lines


XXBIRD

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It was time to replace the brake and clutch fluids so, did I. I even splurged and purchased a bleeder system with vacuum indicator on it ($40 from PepBoys). I followed the instructions from the service manual but cannot seem to get the air for the rear brake. There is a slight air noise when I apply the brake pedal and it's spongee at first and firm on the second push. I went around twice with each bleeder valve. I even tried the old and proven way of doing it manually. Squeeky air noise comes from the front calipers for the rear brake pedal. Any ideas??? :question:

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Are you getting a good stream of fluid through the Mity-Vac when you bleed the system? If not, keep at it until all you get is fluid. The lines to the rear through the the secondary M/C, etc. are long and hold a lot of air if you drained them.

Did you also bleed the front portion of the rear system? If not, that will make your pedal feel soft. I'd go through the procedure in the manual again and again until you get all the air out.

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Yes, indeed, I drained both front and the rear. I did also bleed front portion of the rear brake and vice versa. Rethinking about it though, maybe I was not patient enough to get all the air out from the long front part of the rear brake. The instructions for the bleeder says, if you get a steady stream of small bubles, it is from the threads therefore ignore it. I should also wrap the threads with teflon tape and rebleed it.

Thanks for the hint.

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I just changed my fluids also. You may want to try gravity bleeding that line. I didn't let the master cylinders go dry though. I just kept adding fluid and letting it piss out till it flushed the old fluid. Probably not as good as sucking it all out but it doesn't seem to have any air in the system.

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I'm not saying you can't read directions...but it's possible you read them wrong. The linked brake system must be bled in a specific order. If you start with the wrong piston, you could end up with the problem you're describing.

I wouldn't know that by experience or anything.... :roll:

RTGwalt

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This was one of the few things I did following the instructions from the manual to the letter. Despite of the instructions/notes such as:

The brake line air bleeding procedure is performed in the same manner as in the ordinal air bleeding procedure.
(Page 15-5)
NOTE:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Do not release the brake lever until the bleed valve has been closed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2. Release the brake lever slowly until the bleed valve has been closed.

(Page 15-8)

:question: So, what do I do? Don't I release it or I release it slowly? :question: Anyway, I did follow the order of bleeding valves. I guess the problem is that I need to bleed it more to get potential air in the long hose for the rear brake. Since I've seen a steady stream of fluid came out, I presumed it was fine. I need to continue cycle at least once what's in the rear master to make sure that air is all out.

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I had the same problem bleeding the rear...I used mighty vac and went through 3 resevior fills, followed procedure in service manual and even did it the old fashioned way...its still spongy so I figured since I only use the rear brake lightly I just pump it once before using it...Let us know if/how you get it right

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well... it was this weekend I could get to it. It takes much longer to bleed the air out if you do get teh oil out the way I did. I sucked all the oil out from the reservuars through teh bleed valves. I think it was a mistake. The rear brake lines take quite a bit fluid it appears. This time I was bit more patient and let the bleeder pump do the work; create the vacuum, open the bleeder valve, , close teh valve, pump it again and so forth while paying attention to fluid level not to suck the air in from the reservuars.

Good thing is I know how much it takes now when I do change the lines with the Spiegler ones. :cool:

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