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The end of Mobil 1 15-50 as we know it???


Pete in PA

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Just picked up this rumor on STN.

Mobil leaked the news, now there is no proof.

They "might" be changeing their line up of oils. The 15-50 will only be available as an extended drain, more expensive oil.

This will happen in 5 months. (if it happens)

I was planing to try M1 truck and SUV oil next anyway.

EDIT: I was just on Mobil's site and of course no news.

There is the disclaimer on the bottom of every page, "Due to ongoing tech. this product may be changed without prior notifacation" blah blah blah.

I compared the product data sheets for their Delvac 1 (their, and THE best oil) and their truck and SUV oil and they're the same.

Going to see if I can find it at Wally World or anywhere and how much it costs. It's a 5W-40 BTW.

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I am changing my oil this weekend as I finish up my winter PM. I am going with Shell Rotella synthetic, 5W-30 comes in a blue jug.

I figured it wouldn't be long before they jack the price sky high on the Mobil 1. Probably blame it on the war in Iraq for the price increase, or cutting back of oil refinery.

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I used the Shell Rotella Synthetic and the shifting immediately felt like 5k mile old Mobil 1 15-50. :sad:

I went to Wally World today. While there they were just starting to stock the shelves with the new stuff. :sad:

So far the 5-30 and 10-30 are real. It's called extreme performance I think. 1 year or 15K miles with an asteric. Read that, and it says as long as it doesn't disagree with the mfg. recomendations. :roll:

The 15-50 was still on the shelf at $22.42. That went up since I bought it last from $18.88.

The truck and SUV was $4.77 a quart. I was thinking of running this. Don't know if it's sticking around.

Now I don't know what to run. It's getting expensive again.

I heard Castrol doesn't recomend their oil in bikes. Just their bike oil.

Any ideas for a good synthetic oil, available anywhere, for $3 a quart?

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I've been debating a Mobil 1 switch for years and I was about to do it, glad I didn't. Been using Bel Ray dino since I got it 21,000 miles ago.

I'm surspised to hear the Shell doesn't shift that well :cry:

There's no way I'm paying $10 a quart for oil, I use Castrol GTX in my 600RR track bike and change it every 100 miles and wondering if I'll just put it in my XX :???: I'm so sick of wasting money on oil that won't make any difference when I stop riding it. I forget where the link is but GTX out performed the bel Ray I'm using for 1/2 the price and a fraction of synthetic anything now that Mobil might crap out on us. I seriously doubt a motor an incredible as ours is going to have any problems with cheap car oil.

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15w50 is just too thick for modern high reving watercooled motorcycle engine,5w/40 is better suited anyway,no reason to cry.

I don`t get it,some guys spend 6-8 hundred bucks for slip-ons,gain 3-4 hp,and then waste all that by running 15w/50.

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Car oil is not intended for use in bikes.

Cars do not have wet clutches and do not use their oil for gearbox lubrication (as bikes do), not to mention that very few rev above 8000 rpm (and those are Hondas or Ferraris).

In my Bird I have used Motul 5100 (ester based) both 15w50 and 10w40.

Definetely I didn't like the 15w50 (shifting) .

10w40 viscosity is the one that Honda suggests, 5w40 is too thin , 15w50 too thick.

Also tried Castroll (don't remember the exact name, but it was the one with the magnatec tecnology) and it felt better than Motul but only for 2000 Km.

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For all those who profess the atributes and shortcomings of their choices in oil here's a bit for you:

My Acura is now going on 283K miles.. I've always run Castrol 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the Summer. NEVER has this motor missed a beat nor has it had ANY work on it (except for the timing belt and water pump at it's usual intervals). I keep hearing how awful 10-40 is, especially in Dino and how using it will cause famine, locust swarms, people to grow tails, etc. I have YET to hear or see ANY proof of oil causing a caastrophic failure in cars or motorcycles except in ultimate racing situations.

This all being said I have been running Mobil one in both my Bikes (couldn't be happier). Many of the LD riders will run Synthetic oils (brand doesn't really matter much) for durations iver 10K without changing and under tough conditions. Bottom line, we may have our preferences but almost nothing in terms of anything scientific to back our claims of one being "better" than another. Use what you want but IF you're going to soapbox bring some proof.

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I change my oil every 2500 miles like clock work, I could run cooking oil in my bike and it would work if you changed it on a regular basis.

I am going with Shell Rotella

Preventive Maintance is the life of every car, truck, bike, boat, vibrator, dirtbike.

Guy at work let his car oil go 17,000 miles over. Brand new car now. I don't expect that car to make it to 100,000 miles

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Well, to take a step back and look at the big picture, our manuals say you can use crappy HP4 and change it every 8000miles :shock: :shock: :shock:

Why are we so concerned with this subject? I sware I'm 2 seconds from running Castrol GTX (better than HP4) for the rest of my life and using the money for track days, mods, fun stuff :twisted: What's the big fucking deal!

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I never for the life of me understood why the manual says to change the oil every 8,000 miles.

This is a motor that uses the oil for lubrication and also cooling of metal parts in the engine and transmission. The motor is designed to turn high RPM's, 10,800 as a redline. My bike with the stock gearing turns right at 3,000 RPM's running 55 MPH. Bike Temp averages 185 F - 190 F sometimes higher on them warm days mid summer.

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I use sperm whale oil, or do I use whale sperm? :wink:

When I was in the local walmart a few weeks back I was looking for the "red" cap and didn't see any. Then I took a closer look at the labels and see that they have "grey" caps on the 15w50 bottles. Not sure if this is the start of what you are mentioning or just a screw up.

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