county Posted November 15, 2004 Share Posted November 15, 2004 Since installing SuperBrace, when I hit a particularly stiff bump, my horn beeps. And, if I hit a mild bump while I am on the front brake, the horn beeps. It's just a short beep and I guess I could live with it but I don't think I want to. Any quick cures out there, that don't involve cutting the wires to the horn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 15, 2004 Share Posted November 15, 2004 That's just a feature to let you know when the brace is working. There is a feedback thermocouple encased in the unit that generates a field as the brace flexes under situations when the brace is tensioned....like braking or stiff bumps. These are precisely the situations where the brace is supposed to help, and the field generator makes your horn blow to indicate that the unit is functioning. You can shut the thermocouple off if you have an eprom programmer large enough to penetrate the agitated dilurium core of the brace. Either that, or something is screwed up somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partmonster Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 It could also be that thing called the nuetronic flabulous agitator causing a harmonic vibration thru the shocks and into the atmoic flagulence pickup module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 That's just a feature to let you know when the brace is working. There is a feedback thermocouple encased in the unit that generates a field as the brace flexes under situations when the brace is tensioned....like braking or stiff bumps. These are precisely the situations where the brace is supposed to help, and the field generator makes your horn blow to indicate that the unit is functioning. You can shut the thermocouple off if you have an eprom programmer large enough to penetrate the agitated dilurium core of the brace.Either that, or something is screwed up somewhere. :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: Is that the only way you can tell? LOL :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Lets see fi I get this right, You made the forks stiff and the bike is horny :?: :roll: :???: :???: :???: :???: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Country, check this thread out... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...er=asc&start=20 I think what you're experiencing is the SuperBrace is "completing" the circuit when it hits the horn... At first I didn't quite understand what the others were experiencing, but after a bit of investigation (and a tie wrap) I now see what's happening. The horn and the brake lines/brackets are getting tapped by the brace. These components now act as fork stops and limit full fork compression (on my bike with my fat ass on it) by about 3/8". I'm thinking that a little modding and I can correct this condition. The forks are gonna get worked over this winter, so that may just stop this from happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
county Posted November 16, 2004 Author Share Posted November 16, 2004 Country, check this thread out... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...er=asc&start=20 I think what you're experiencing is the SuperBrace is "completing" the circuit when it hits the horn... At first I didn't quite understand what the others were experiencing, but after a bit of investigation (and a tie wrap) I now see what's happening. The horn and the brake lines/brackets are getting tapped by the brace. These components now act as fork stops and limit full fork compression (on my bike with my fat ass on it) by about 3/8". I'm thinking that a little modding and I can correct this condition. The forks are gonna get worked over this winter, so that may just stop this from happening. I dunno. Doesn't look like the brake lines/brackets are getting hit. It may be the left chrome guard getting into the horn wiring. I'm pretty sure that the rest of the advice I got is from people who are more familiar with Allstate Motorscooters than Blackbirds though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 The only thing remotely similar with the Allstates was the sintered abduction harness used in the last two years of production. You are probably thinking of the Puch Twingle with the rotary valve hymen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 That's just a feature to let you know when the brace is working. There is a feedback thermocouple encased in the unit that generates a field as the brace flexes under situations when the brace is tensioned....like braking or stiff bumps. These are precisely the situations where the brace is supposed to help, and the field generator makes your horn blow to indicate that the unit is functioning. You can shut the thermocouple off if you have an eprom programmer large enough to penetrate the agitated dilurium core of the brace.Either that, or something is screwed up somewhere. sooo...this was sarcasm? I am confused...Hell I thought I had learned something today!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 From the "For What It's Worth Department" If you are constantly that close to bottoming out your forks, (a common problem on the Blackbird) you really need to get some stiffer springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
county Posted November 17, 2004 Author Share Posted November 17, 2004 From the "For What It's Worth Department"If you are constantly that close to bottoming out your forks, (a common problem on the Blackbird) you really need to get some stiffer springs. Thanx. (Also, I was a bit surprized to get all that BS in the Tech [Garage] Forum.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBird Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 From the "For What It's Worth Department"If you are constantly that close to bottoming out your forks, (a common problem on the Blackbird) you really need to get some stiffer springs. Thanx. (Also, I was a bit surprized to get all that BS in the Tech [Garage] Forum.) The horn is the first thing that the brace will bottom into--thats pretty funny---also verify that the bracket is turned the right way--I put mine on backwards once and had interesting clearance "issues"--if it on properly and it still hits--it would be easy to build a bracket that remounts the horn--I forgot what a PITA all those funky linked brake hoses and brackets are to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Are your forks at the stock height or are they moved higher in the tripple clamps? Fork brace sounds like it's completeing the circuit when bottomed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothmotion Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 That's just a feature to let you know when the brace is working. There is a feedback thermocouple encased in the unit that generates a field as the brace flexes under situations when the brace is tensioned....like braking or stiff bumps. These are precisely the situations where the brace is supposed to help, and the field generator makes your horn blow to indicate that the unit is functioning. You can shut the thermocouple off if you have an eprom programmer large enough to penetrate the agitated dilurium core of the brace. LOL....omg you are crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR-RR-XX-CESS Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Since installing SuperBrace, when I hit a particularly stiff bump, my horn beeps. And, if I hit a mild bump while I am on the front brake, the horn beeps.It's just a short beep and I guess I could live with it but I don't think I want to. Any quick cures out there, that don't involve cutting the wires to the horn? LOL I have a similar problem with my 954's horn going off from vibration at about 10k,Cal and tim thought this was real funny. Now that there are others I don't feel so alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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