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Balance Shaft Timing


Northman

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Anybody done this, and can recall some details?

My rear is easy enough to time, but the front is very vague. Book calls for a scribe line on the counterweight, ,and shows it as being on the weighted side of the balance shaft.

I don't have a scribed line, so was going by a casting line on the light side of the shaft.

Problem is: it doesn't line up properly to the boss in the case, either a little off one way, or more off the other.

And the engine vibrates bad, very buzzy around 5-6K, like the shaft is out 180.

Any advice?

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My rear is easy enough to time, but the front is very vague

My god the bad comments just write themselves, don't they?

(seriously)

I THINK that Forest has done this before, when he did his turbo.

DaveXX01 was thinking of doing his harmonic blancer stuff this winter, as he's convinced his is off a bit. He was talking to someone at Mega about it, but I don't remember who it was.

Bueller??? Bueller??

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And the engine vibrates bad, very buzzy around 5-6K, like the shaft is out 180.

Posts like this will start giving me nightmares when it gets closer to start bolting my motor back together.

I can photo one of my front weights, if you want to eyeball the scribe line to see if yours is in the right location. Hell, mine might not have the line, either. I haven't checked.

J.

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Yank em out like Elixxir said. They don't do anything for the actual balancing of the crank. They just quell vibrations from the engine. Removing them might be worth a couple horsepower and you'd get better throttle response in the process as well. May get a few more vibes, but just think of the end result. :wink:

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That's exactly what I was looking for! :grin:

The first pic scared the shit out of me, as that's what was used to time the shaft.

The second - 4th pics show the groove on the side of the gear, and that's what I did tonight.

A lot smoother now!

Thanks again, man :)

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That's exactly what I was looking for! :grin:

The first pic scared the shit out of me, as that's what was used to time the shaft.

The second - 4th pics show the groove on the side of the gear, and that's what I did tonight.

A lot smoother now!

Thanks again, man :)

Sorry about that. Don't know why in the hell I took the first photo. :???:

So you retimed it?

I annotated IMG_1817.jpg, but sounds like that wasn't necessary.

Future reference, those photos aren't oriented like the photo taken from the manual.

J.

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Yep, all retimed, just in time to see your pics. :wink:

I thought about it all day, and pulled the shaft out when I got home to see the marks close up. That was the only one that made sense, so I went with it.

Turns out I was right, but needed to see your pics to ease my mind.

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J Red, Thanks for the pics, now I know a little better what to look for when I reset mine!

Northman, was your engine in your bike complete with fairings? How long did it take you to re-adjust your front shaft? Any tips for me? Talking to the stealer only makes me more worried about letting them touch it!

-Dave

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J Red, Thanks for the pics, now I know a little better what to look for when I reset mine!

Northman, was your engine in your bike complete with fairings? How long did it take you to re-adjust your front shaft? Any tips for me? Talking to the stealer only makes me more worried about letting them touch it!

-Dave

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Engine in the bike, completely assembled.

Remove both lowers, and the header.

Remove the oil pan, then the inspection cover on the lower right side (crankshaft position indicator).

Remove the access cover to the rear shaft, then rotate the engine until the "T" mark lines up with the mark in the cover, which is when the "T" is @ 12:00.

Rear balance shaft should have it's index line at the edge of the boss in the crank case, and the lower will have it's notch lined up with the boss in the lower case.

It's in the manual, and well detailed, except for the notch in the front shaft.

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