TimXX Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 I know this has been asked before, but I have to make a decision fast. How much effect does the K&N airl filter have on a 2002 XX with FI? I have always used K&N because it is easier and cheaper to maintain them than the stocks. BTW: where are good places to get K&Ns and/or stock filters? In Vancouver they cost $120CAD [$90US] for K&N and $80CAD [$60US] for stock- this is too much money. Aslo- what do your guys charge for adjusting the valves? Here they want $350-60 for the labour for 24,000km service which includes this and synching the throttle boddies and a host of other things I do myself. I need a quick answer since I am leaving on a big trip beginning of August. ThankXX. TimXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titbird Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 I felt no diff after switching to K&N - 2000 injected Alot of guys will say screw checking the vavles on a XX until after 40,000 miles (don't know the conversion to km)....and I plan on doing the same... - Tit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Yeah, I agree with Ray. Leave the valves alone, and only install the K&N if you want a re-useable filter. It seems to affect the carb bikes (leans them out), but the FI actually gained 2hp, IIRC, due to helping lean a very rich factory mixture. Not enough to notice, and it was on different bikes/dyno's, so YMMV. :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Switch to K&N on '02 was no seat of the pants feel, but definitely lean out the mixture a bit, rear tips of oem exhaust lost most of blackness buildup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZITPRO Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 I have a 2003, can't say it made much difference. $45 USD on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebird Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Hey Tim, I felt no noticable difference, but very well made, good name, never needs replacing. Oh yeh come with a cool sticker. Try Imperial Motorsports for your valve job, probably cheaper. If you take of all the nessasary bodywork before hand it will be even cheaper. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Alot of guys will say screw checking the vavles on a XX until after 40,000 miles Really? That long? I was going to do it at 32K miles. Has anyone had valves way out of tolerance at this mileage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11833 That should answer any questions....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrgoudy Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Curious about how they synch the throttle bodies since my understanding is they are non-adjustable from the factory. I've synched the starter valves a few times (and would like to be able to synch the throttle bodies), but am not aware it can even be done without risking a major FUBAR. Have yet to need any valve shims in 42K miles for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Bird Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 Tim, if you're changing "air in" I suggest you change "air out", ie a good pair of slip ons. If you read the pcll post you'll note that these two mods will necessitate a PC lll, my opinion. I would then encourage you dyno the pc installation. www.futurecycle.com ($839.95Can.) pc + dyno. Not cheap I confess. Personally I adjust valves every 25,000 kms as per recommended but not necessarily needed. Yes, it's a pricy service but I overservice my ride and don't turn my own wrenches so it does add up. Ex., Valves, plugs, bath K&N, $440.00. I also have had the same tech do every service and add on since new. Except for Future Cycle. The Bird in not a cheap bike to keep in top form or make additions to. K&N, $84.00 Can. minus whatever discounts you can beg out of the source. I haven't mentioned the addition of Heli Bars, full Givi hard bags plus docking hardware, Two Bro C5 Titanium slip ons and Corbin Gunfighter Lady. In truth perhaps the bird is fine out of the box but most of us can't leave well enough alone. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimXX Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 You guys have lots of good info but I am a bit confused re: distance before checking valves. We Canadians [and the rest of the world too] use kilometers and not miles to measure riding distance. My manual says check the valves at 24,000km [about 15,000 miles]. Some of you checked them at 20,000 miles [32,000 km] and some at 46,000 miles [74,000km]. These are BIG differences. I have decided that I will wait on the valve check because I am at 20,000 km and my trip will be about 10,000km. If I am at the same location in the US for a few days, I might get them done then. If not, I guess 30,000km will not be too bad. Re: air filters- I like the idea of cleaning them over and over again for the long haul. What I do with my car and my old bike is clean them during the winter when they are down for a while. They all use the same cleaning kit and oil so it is not a big deal to do. Since the consensus is that the FI birds run OK with K&N filters, I will get that one. Where is the cheapest [or best] place to get one? I have a US address to ship it to- in fact, one of the guys I am riding with is at that address and he can bring it to me before we take off. Must be done quick though so give suggestions ASAP. I guess I will eventually get a PCIII and carbon fibre cans [my wife has already burned her leg getting off the stock piped bike and the carbon cans seem very "cool" :wink: ] and chasis dyno the bike- but the acceleration does not seem to be a weak point on this bike. I did put Hyperpro fork springs [and 5 wt oil], and their rear shock and spring with remote preload and fast and slow comp and slow rebound damping adjustment. It came with and extra 12.5mm [1/2"] of height at the rear axle, and I use 30mm of sag with the fully loaded rider setup [either me solo, with fully loaded bags, or with my wife on and fully loaded bags]. With the remote preload adj. this is easy to work out now that I have kept track of how many turns of the hydraulic wheel alters it properly. I am still not sure how to fine tune the rebound and compression damping. Any suggestions re: what to feel for and whether tightening or loosening the damping changes this? BTW: I do like the progressively wound spring because I don't have to over preload when riding double because the spring really gets firmer near the end of its travel- I have not bottomed yet. Thanks for all the info- this forum really does help with specific info for the Bird. TimXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REXX Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 TimXX, I got mine from RonAyers.com good price and quick shipping. You might be able to pick one up on Ebay too. I felt as if my bike revved a little freer but probably just wishful thinking. Be warned the airbox lid doesn't fit back nice and flush as with stock...you have to kind of pull it down tight with the screws after you remove the old O-ring and apply the provided silicone grease in the groove (at least that was my case). I freaked out until I sought advice from the board gurus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REXX Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Forgot to mention it earlier but if your plugs are close to needing a change, now's the time to do it. Great directions on Warchild's site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gourmet Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 I am another Canadian dealing in Klicks not miles. Just had my valves adjusted at 40000 kms, the tech at DPE Racing (Woodbridge, Ont) said they were in great shape, didn't really need them done, one shim was changed but could have been left alone. I also changed the steering bearings( did racetech valves reb. and comp. so did the bearings, didn't need to be done either he said). Second set of plugs at 40000 kms, they needed to be done. As for the K&N air filter really haven't noticed any difference. Biggest and most valuable change I have done yet is the Ohlins rear shock. Like having a new bike. BTW Dynoed at 138.5 and 80.1. Numbers seem good for a 4 year old with 40clicks. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimXX Posted July 31, 2004 Author Share Posted July 31, 2004 Hi XXers, Thanks for the advice. I bought a K&N filter through Ebay for $39+6.95 shipping [that is about $62CAD]. This is better than the $85+14.5% tax=$97CAD that the stock one would cost from a dealer. I already have the cleaner and oil from using this on my car and other bike [which I have sold]. My new front Pilot Road is on and I have cleaned and waxed my bike, adjusted and oiled the chain, and gathered my tent and sleeping bag [i will air them out on Monday]. So- next week I am off to Sturgis for 3 days [Aug 9-12] and then down the Rockies to Albuquerque to visit with my brother. Then it's off to Vegas and LA and then up the coast back home. Yes I am riding with a Harley guy- but he is an old friend and we can meet up at the next stop if he drops back too far. Besides- I will probably need to know a Hogger when at Sturgis. We still don't know where we are sleeping yet-Don likes to wing it. Hakuna Matata, TimXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Bird Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 Timxx, I posted a ? on the Brit site re hotweather riding, which you are about to immerse youself in. I received some excellent advice! Have a great ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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