Titbird

My first thought was fuel filter... But I don't know my ass from my elbow... P.s. when the bat died on my bird, I had similar symptoms... And the guages went all funky (stopped working, etc.) Good luck brother, let us know what you find... Tit

Yes, clutch lever moves freely... cable is frozen in its "sleeve" whatever ya call it...

Trying to sell a 95 Yamaha Banshee that has been used twice in the last two years... mainly b/c its stored 120 miles away from home... Last two times I used it the clutch cable pull was very hard... so I bought one of those clamp on oiler things but it didn't seem to get much lube in there... but the cable still worked... just very hard pull... now a year later its out of storage so I can sell it. Started up just fine...Went to pull in the clutch ... FROZEN!!! Removed it from the machine and sprayed penetrating oil in both ends... waited... put one end in vise... pulled cable with pliers... with all my strength... wouldn't budge... I now have the whole cable submerged in 2 inches of 10w30 in a pan... was gonna let soak for a day, a week... whatever it takes.... Is this thing shot and needs to be replaced??? Or is there something else I should be soaking it in? Gasoline??? Is there ANYTHING I can do here? Or bite the bullet and buy a new one... THANKS!!!! -Tit

Ahhh... Thank you very much Sir!! Was just wondering why the bike comes w/ 10w40 dino in it... and a bunch of us switch to 15w50 synthetic (or what ever the weight is...it's been a couple years) .... and now back to 10w40 synthetic....just wonderin' Thanks - Tit

Well I'll be corn-swaggled.... If we havn't had at LEAST 13,000 posts on oil....I'll eat a Fram filter.... Why doesn't a search on "OIL" find anything.....?!?! Anyone used: ' Mobil one synthetic racing 4T 10w40 4 stroke motorcycle oil ' in their Bird?? Can't find regular Mobil one anymore (without friction modifiers - AKA: SuperSYN) and was looking for a reasonable substitute!!!

I always wondered about that....it's a scary thought... I just keep asuring myself that Honda would have thought of that... I mean...how much different could a wheelie be than HARD 1st/2nd gear acceleration with respects to "where the oil goes" in the pan.... - Tit

I felt no diff after switching to K&N - 2000 injected Alot of guys will say screw checking the vavles on a XX until after 40,000 miles (don't know the conversion to km)....and I plan on doing the same... - Tit

In the past I have had a slightly hard time finding H7 bulbs......soooooo In the mean time.....if you have to wait for one to be shipped: 1. You could swap the hi and low beam bulbs - they are the same. 2. run w/ the hi beam on - Tit

D'oh !!! Gonna have to be a wussy then Chris...cuz all I have is a stock one.... :razz: - Tit

Just s/w Donny(Demon) on the phone - GREAT GUY!! Thanks for the help brother!!! See you all tomorrow!!!! - Tit

Thanks anyway Peter!!

any tricks? just the clutch slave bolts, remove clutch slave (any tricks to that?) then remove sprocket cover and finally sprocket...Sound right?? I have the service manual but can't find a clear description of the procedure... Thanks folks...I need quick help...leaving for SeXXt in a few short hours... Thanks - Titty

Not sure....but what are you adding.....a MONSTER TACH or something?!?!?!? :wink: - Tit

the ignitions locks are a piece of shit! both keys work fine to unlock the seat....but both keys are difficult to insert into the ignition...it's a 50/50.... sometimes it goes right in ...the other half of the time you have to wrestle with it.... I've given up stressing over it....I just keep a hammer under the seat....

This is another pm I sent to Joe: I was skeptical about soldering too Joe... but some of the guys on the board had suggested it when I posted my problem. I think the heat could damage the TPS. Every time I had reseated the connector in the past, I would try my best to clean the contacts (kinda tight in there) and would always add dielectric grease to the pins before reconnecting it. This always seemed to work for about a month or 2. Last time I fiddled w/ it, when I resprung the pins on the female connector, I cleaned everything as best I could (now I had it apart so I could get in there a little better), I added dielectric grease once again and clicked it all back together again. It was much tighter this time and I felt a noticable difference when pushing the connector down onto the sensor. Much more resistance. I even double checked to make sure none of the female pins backed out of the connector due to them being tighter. I'm really running out of options here....

Good idea Mith.... The bike had not sat for a while...I ride it all the time. It did sit for a few months over the horrendous winter we had so maybe you're right North. I've already gone through 2 or 3 tanks of fuel while this problem has been occuring. and the problem didn't start right after the bike came out of winter storage... the problem started like 3 months later... I will do the injector cleaner just for S & G's..... and look into replacing the fuel filter/s ... what's the replacemnet interval? Where are the filters located? I have 10k on the bike and replaced the plugs and air filter (K/N) at 8k. This is a side note I wrote to JoeRock about an old post I had made: Hey Joe.. I don't know if you remember but a long time ago, on the old board, I had a post in the garage section about a problem w/ the TPS connector. I was getting 8 blink codes on the fi light and constantly had to fiddle w/ the connector. I was experiencing throttle response issues and every time I reseated the connector they would go away....for a while. So last time I fiddled w/ it, I took the connector apart and "re-sprung" the little pins to make a tighter grip on the posts of the TPS. This worked very well and I thought my problems were gone forever. just about the time when my starting issues began to act up, my TPS issue returned. I wonder if they are related. I'm seriously considering soldering the damn wires to the TPS. Thanks guys... - Tit

Now I'm really confused.... is there a problem or no...???

a little clutch noise is normal.... clutch rattling around in the basket while engaged... but a NASTY VIBRATION?? don't know about that one.... - Titbird

I like the way you think Joe.... What was my original question ??

:grin: Starts absolutely fine any time after that second start....and fine after being warmed up.... but if I let it sit over night the problem returns... I'm thinking something to do with that stupid wax thingy.... :headscratch:

Oh Joe...I saw that you replied and was all excited to get a knowledgable answer from a bike guru... instead I get a slap and a tickle...and still have to start the bike twice.... waaaah

Alright...this is starting to bug me now.... This has been happening for the last few weeks...when the engine is cold (first start up of the day)...I turn the key and start the bike. It used to start up just fine. Then every once in a while, it would start but have a VERY low idle...like fucking 2 rpm... I would shut it off and restart and the idle would be just fine. After a while, I found if I let the fuel pump finish it's initial whine, the low idle problem became non existant. Then the problem came back even after letting the pump finish. Now I find myself turning on the key, letting the pump finish, then turning the stop engine switch to off then on again to let the pump cycle for a second time before starting her up. this helped for a while. Not any longer. NOW I have to start the bike twice everytime the engine is cold just to get the proper "high" idle. What gives ??? Any ideas ?? I prolly should mention it's a y2k injected bird... - Titbird

Rats....

Melissa is great to work with. I ordered a full set for the bird. 2 Green sets for the front and 1 black set for the rear. They got to the house in 6 days, just as she promissed. She even gave me a 15% discount for being part of this CBR1100XX group. The total was $94.90 for all 3 sets and shipping. They were all wrong !! I ended up getting 2 black sets for the front and 1 green set for the rear. I called her on a tuesday (got the pads on Monday when I got home from work) and told her that I have a big ride to connecticuit this weekend and really need the pads by Saturday. She said no problem the pads will get to your house by Saturday. I asked her if she could include a return ups sticker for return postage for the wrong pads. She said - no problem. Today is Wednesday, I'll keep you posted how everything goes.... - Titbird