REXX

The K&N made my fuel mileage terrible and felt like less power with my butt-dyno. Put the stock filter back in and back to normal...it's a '99 with Scorpion slip-ons.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/aerohpcalc.html

Glad you like it. Hope you cleaned your clutch pushrod while you were in there....... Oh yea, everything's spotless in there now. That new Dupont lube won't make a mess like the chain wax did. The chain was actually making a groove through the ooze. Where did you get the Dupont lube...and how much was it?

StainTunes are VERY NICE...but the price tag will give you a heart attack!

Very nice! How do they sound?

Thanks, I was thinking checking out my local motorcycle shop on the way home. Either that or HomeDepot :icon_think: BTW- My Microns just have allen screws to remove . Or you could have just bought Scorpion cans, packed with a continuous strand of stainless steel, they NEVER need repacking.

Thanks for the info...I think I'll get it. Where are you getting it, and is that the model number for motorcycle brake bleeding? I couln't find that model number on the MityVac site and the brake bleeding stuff they had loooke like automotive --- too big. Got it from here...$9 shipping brought the total to $40.50...info said it would also work on motorcycles. http://www.toolsource.com/ost//product.asp...NSG27NPRP0U276E I've never orderd from them but that's not a bad price for that large a system.

Thanks for the info...I think I'll get it.

Is this a decent brake/clutch bleeder for the DIY person? It's only $32...pretty cheap. If not, what would y'all recommend?

Sounds like a good change to make. Anyone know if there is a factory Honda rubber-damped 18T?

There is a lot of good info here and you can also go to superblackbird.com Is the bike all stock, how many miles? The 96/97/98 are carbed bikes and 99 on are fuel infected. Sounds like a good price to me if it's in good shape and working order.

I had the EXACT same experience as you...except add in HORRIBLE fuel mileage! All I got was a lot of "intake noise" with the K&N that makes you think you're hauling ass, but my "ass dynometer" told me different. My fuel mileage dropped around 8 mpg on top of the shitty performance. I was so pissed that I emailed K&N about their bullshit claims...no response. I would also be willing to bet that the K&N filters WORSE than stock because of all the "dust/dirt" I found in the air box when putting the stock filter back. Once the stock filter was put in place mileage and power returned. I will say that I use a K&N on my 94 Formula and it gets better mileage and performance, just like advertised. I can only attribute this to maybe a computer that "recalibrates itself"...I don't know? I have read here about people that use a K&N in conjunction with a Power Commander that allows them to make the necessary A/F changes to gain increased power. So K&N needs to add another sentence on their advertising..."Must purchase $250 Power Commander and arrange $200 dyno session to gain your extra 3 HP".

Squareman357: http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/foru...light=wire+loom

Get the piston on that cylinder to "top dead center" before tapping. It should be easier to vacuum out the cylinder then, good luck.

Mine fit great...no trimming needed. '99 model.

I use Amsoil motorcycle specific syn (10-40w) as well and have be very pleased. Kind of pricy...think I paid $6.50/quart IIRC from their website. They have filters too...can't remember what they cost, but cheaper than the stealer.

Have you recently switched to synthetic oil...what chain lube are you using?

+1...no experience with battery powered though.

Damn, I didn't know...this is my first "clicker". My other TW's were "pointer" type. I'd been PISSED if I'd screwed up my new wrench. Thanks for the info.

Exactly, I use a breaker bar also even though the TW has a ratchet head. You need a breaker bar anyway for loosening the lugs on your car when the tire shops install them with air wrenches set on max psi. Try breaking those bitches loose with that little tire ironwrench on the side of the road!

Do you have a torque wrench to properly tighten it back with? I got mine at Sears...you could actually use it to loosen the nut. IIRC it has a 250 ft/lb limit.

I forgot to ask, how did it run? Did it seem to have a stumble or miss or sluggish? I also don't think the exhaust distributes evenly out of both cans, back when it was cold I remember seeing more "smoke" coming from one can over the other (can't remember which).

I had the same setup (K&N and Scorpions) on a '99 model. I never had an oil smell but it ran very rich (sooty black inside the exh. tips) and smell of unburnt fuel, after a hard ride, from the rear of the bike. I put the stock air filter back in and it doesn't do it as bad. From what I have read here you really need to have a Power Commander to recalibrate the fuel map when you install a filter and cans to get it just right. It actually seems a little rich from the factory anyway...I don't think you're hurting anything without the PC, it would just run better (cleaner).

GF got me a nice digital one from Sears. It's an Accutire Model MS-4705B...very accurate and almost 90 degree end for tight areas, cost around $12. Best of all...it's CHROME! Check pressure when cold.

Details? Pictures?