tweety Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 just found out i can get a great price for the Avon 45/46 at Cycle Gear, but I have to bring in just the wheels for mounting/balancing. i've never removed the wheels before, so what is involved? the brake discs can stay on, right? i scanned the manual quickly, and found this: front: 1) support front end 2) remove front fender 3) remove right caliper 4) remove left secondary master cylinder & left caliper 5) remove pinch bolts 6) remove axle bolt & axle 7) remove wheel rear: 1) bike on center stand 1) remove axle nut & washer 2) push forward, derail chain 3) remove axle 4) remove wheel any advice or tricks on this task? the rear wheel removal instructions don't mention the rear brake caliper...? also: noting that i have a very ill equipped garage- what do you guys usually use to support the front forks? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDAZ XX Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Put the bike on its center stand and use a car jack under the exhaust manifold to raise the front end. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TOMOVE OR BUMP THE BIKE!!! I have done this a dozen times to work on the front end and it works great, just be careful. The itemized list is fairly accurate. The tool pouch should have everything you need. :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Yup, what Randy said. For tools I'd buy a socket for the rear nut (1 1/16" with a 1/2" drive and a breaker). In fact, I bought a sliding 11" breaker bar which fits under the seat. The stock tool broke on me on a ride, I could have been fucked if it wasn't for the other bikes having tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Be very careful when raising the front end with a jack, too. The header is off-center, and the bike can tip if you're not careful. Just raise the front enough to touch down the rear tire (if only removing front), and the bike will stabalize better. Don't raise it any higher than that, or it will come off the center stand, and tip over. :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 I don't know if anyone else does this, but before I bought stands, I use to put the bike on the center stand, remove the rear tire, then have a helper push down on the bike, remove the front tire, and then take two 13" pieces of 2X4 and place them under the forks. This kept me from having to remove the front fender too. MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweety Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 thanks for all the help guys. Be very careful when raising the front end with a jack, too. The header is off-center, and the bike can tip if you're not careful. Just raise the front enough to touch down the rear tire (if only removing front), and the bike will stabalize better.Don't raise it any higher than that, or it will come off the center stand, and tip over. :shock: hmm. the store isn't too far away- i wonder if i should do the wheels one at a time for safety. note also that i don't have a private garage, just a carport shared with other neighbors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Be very careful when raising the front end with a jack, too. The header is off-center I totally agree with North on that one, that's why I jack it up under the oil pan. Seems way more stable to me, though still enough to make a guy a little nervous at first. Am I the only one using the oil pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 In addition to the good advice so far, one other thing that you need to know. The left front brake assembly and master DOES NOT need to be removed in order to get the front wheel off. I just had my wheels off last week for new tires and brakes and the front will come off just fine with only the right side brake caliper removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD Marc Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Hey Tweety how much is Cycle Gear charging you for the tires, I may follow your example. If you want help we could do it at the garage and take the wheels up at the same time in my truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweety Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 Hey Tweety how much is Cycle Gear charging you for the tires, I may follow your example. If you want help we could do it at the garage and take the wheels up at the same time in my truck. Marc- i emailed you, but i guess you'd left work already. that would be great to do them together. Cycle Gear will sell the tires for $123 front + $168 rear, - 25% sale price! + $30 installed on both wheels + $3 shipping fee = ~$252. i think there might be a bit of tax on top as well, but still that's the cheapest price around, and great for a local store! if you're in for sure, let me know and when i call tomorrow morning i'll order 2 AV45s and 2 AV46s, unless you prefer to call yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD Marc Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 .... going to check my e-mail now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Better yet, duct tape on rims when you remove calipers to protect paint. I use 2 4x4's under the forks and a bottle jack under the front, center bolt on the oil pan as back-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mounty Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Before you remove the wheels press the brake pistons back, makes later installation much easier. Be careful not to damage the brake pads and the disks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMBYBOB Posted May 11, 2003 Share Posted May 11, 2003 I'm about to remove the rear tire for the first time myself. Is there anything I need to be very aware of? Does the caliper need to be removed before or is it OK where it is? How long does it take to do? And do I need to loosen the chain adjuster screws to take the wheel off? Sorry for all the questions but It's a first time thing for me. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 11, 2003 Share Posted May 11, 2003 O.k bike on centerstand, loosen right side axle bolt. Turn adjusters to move axle all the way forward. Count turns to put back when done. Derail chain to outside. remove axle nut and pull axle out left side. Rear caliper is in a slot on swingarm. Slowly roll wheel backwards to get caliper out of slot. Then lift caliper on arm out of way and remove wheel. Reverse to reinstall, tourqe right side axle nut to 76 ft. lbs. when adjusters are back where they were. Hope I didn't forget anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted May 11, 2003 Share Posted May 11, 2003 i found my axle moving at only 76lbs so i use 85 at somebody's suggestion on this list, and i don't have that problem any more :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Shop rags on the rims as they pass the calipers and brackets so they don't get scratched. Better yet, duct tape on rims when you remove calipers to protect paint. You'd better heed this advice or you'll be polishing your wheels like I currently am. The manual says 69 foot pounds.I have no problems with the machine at that torque. Joe is correct - the correct torque value for the rear axle is 69 ft/lbs. Remember, it's just as bad overtorquing metal as it is undertorquing it (relating to the attchment of two surfaces). One thing I learned while removing my rear wheel that I see hasn't been mentioned yet - remove the inside rear brake pad before you try derailing/railing the chain. This will make the removal/installation of the brake caliper much easier. You'll see what I mean especially when you try to re-install the wheel. And, don't worry, removing the brake pad doesn't open up the brake system so you won't have to bleed it. Sorry I can't help with the front tire. I haven't done that myself, either; but, give me a week... Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweety Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 now that i've done it here's a tip that may apply: with the front tire, you only have to remove one side of brakes. it's usually easier to remove the right side since it has fewer bolts, but one of my bolts was WELDED in there. (actually just red loctite, but we couldn't get it out after trying 304 different methods) anyway, we ended up removing the left caliper to remove the front wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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