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Steering head bearings??


Rider99XX

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I need to change the steering head bearings on my 99XX. Any help would be appreciated. The bike has 17,000 miles on it with most of those miles riding two up. I've been through most other things on my XX except those bearings. I have a very slight head shake at slower speeds (25-40)mph. I just put new tires on less than 500 miles ago. Wheel bearings, front and rear checked out OK. I hope replacing those bearings will cure the shake.

Rider99XX

Any one here from Mississippi?

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Mine are notched at 24K and I think Redbird said his were bad at 12K. I know my bike hasn't seen any real wheelies since the 9500 mile mark. The Avons I just put on really wobbled which led me to the bearings. No wobble at all until the tire change but I know the bearings have a problem.

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Does any one have the part number for the tapered head bearings??

I thought i read a post a long time ago that thats' what the guys are using, and where did they order them from???

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I first noticed the shake about 200 to 300 miles before I replaced the Dunlop D207 tires. The shake cleared up about 98% after the new tires. I put Dunlop D220 back on to try and get a little more milage. I'll give up a little performance for the milage. I pulled the top triple clamp off and tightened the nut up just a little and it seemed to help some but I can still feel some shake through the bars.

I have had a couple of hard wheelie landings but it's been about a year ago. I don't do too many wheelies anyway. I've never hit a curb or any pot holes. Right before this tire change the shake got pretty bad, especially while slowing down. It started when the D207s started going away and got somewhat better with the new tires.

Appreciate the input guys.

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Does any one have the part number for the tapered head bearings??

I thought i read a post a long time ago that thats' what the guys are using, and where did they order them from???

Don't have the part number with me but I just ordered them from Dennis Kirk. It's a kit from "All Balls" I think.

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I would like to know the procedure for changing the bearings just for my peace of mind. Are there any major things to look out for other than the obvious? Any hints. Anything?? :loony:

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If you have over 10,000 miles on your bike, the stock steering head bearings are probably notched some. This is normal, and not to be confused with steering head bearings that are either to loose, or to tight. It is because the bike spends way more time with the front wheel pointing straight ahead than with the wheel turned. You can check this by raising the front wheel off the ground, and moving the bars slowly from side to side. There will be a point somewhere in the center of the movement where the forks want to come to rest. This is where the bike currently thinks straight ahead is.

After a tire change, (particularly when you change brands) you may pick up a little weave under deceleration when you remove your hands from the bars. Some of this is due to a change in the tire profile, and some of this is from the rear wheel not being in exactly the same alignment as before.

The cure for this, is to keep your hands on the bars. (Yeah, yeah, I know. Once you find that the bike wobbles with your hands off the bars, you keep doing it. BTDT :grin: )

Usually, the problem fixes itself as the bearings and tires settle into their new alignment patterns.

If the notch becomes deep enough that you feel some play in the steering head when the front end is in the "notch", but there is no play in other positions, it may be time to replace the bearings.

Tapered bearings are less prone to this problem than ball bearings because there is more surface to surface contact, but, they cost more, weigh more, and are much more sensitive to adjustment.

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When I sit on the bike and hold the fron brake, then try to rock the bike back and forth, there is a slight amount of movement just below the upper triple clamp where the dust shield and the steering head meet. I haven't tried to do that with the bars turned one way or the other. That might be that notch RoadRash is talking about.

Could all the two up riding I do( my better half likes to ride...ALOT) have any effect on those bearings? About 98% of the miles on my XX are with her onboard and she is not a large person at all.

I'm in the market for a new chain. Any suggestions????

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If your head bearings are slightly loose, every bump you hit starts hammering a dent in your bottom race. There is a lot of force there. Since the bars are almost always straight when riding, this happens in the straight ahead position.

If you are fond of wheelies, then kiss your head bearings goodbye.

Tapered rollers have a lot more surface area and can take a lot more abuse.

To check, get front off ground and slowly turn bars from lock to lock paying close attention to straight ahead. If notched you will feel the bars fall into the holes.

I wouldn't be surprised if every bird out there has slight to moderate denting of there bottom race.

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I do very few wheelies and when I do one it is normally a power wheelie with wheel low to the ground. There is a slight bump when I rotate the bars from side to side with the front end in the air. It is very slight, but it is there. I checked it yesterday.

Now what? Is replacing the bearings as straight forward as it appears or are there some hidden obsticals I really need to look for other than the obvious? I know I need to change them, just need to know what I'm getting into.

Thanks guys.

Rider99XX

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I wouldn't be surprised if every bird out there has slight to moderate denting of there bottom race.

This is probably true of most motorcycles.

So, here my theory of why it shows up most often when you change tires.

I think that when the rear tire is changed, and the chain is re-adjusted, it is not pointing exactly the same as before. This slightly changes how the bike tracks. So, when you decelerate with your hands off the bars, the front end tracks back and forth between the worn in spot of th old straight ahead position, and the new straignt ahead position. After a while, you will seat the bearings in to the new straight ahead position, and everything gets better. If it tracks back and forth with your hands on the bars, you need to do something to remedy the situation. Check rear tire alignment first, and then the steering head bearings. The more anal you are about aligning the rear wheel, the less problems you will have. Keep in mind, it is not necessary to back off the chain adjusters when you change tires.

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Changeing the head bearings is kind of involved. That's why I didn't do it yet.

Once the forks and fairing are off you unbolt the head and remove. getting the races out without the "special tools" means long punches, and chisels.

To install you'll have to take the yoke to a shop to get the race pressed on.

For the frame races you'll need some galvanized pipe of the right diameter to hammer them home.

I've heard of using the old races to hammer the new ones in, but I've also heard of the old shattering on removal so it's useless. Wear goggles.

If you do this, don't even think of using balls again put in the tapered type.

That's my input, Northman did it already, maybe he can add to it.

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