cbrxxquad

i will take #16 Joe

Get a load test on your battery

test plugs are grounds and grounds are the problem.

yeah Mike my thoughts are that while that headlight is starting up I hit the starter switch disconnecting it and then the bike starts and when I let off button it is in the middle of the startup and the load might be extra high

I had the solder on the start button (headlight disconnect side) turn loose twice and lost my headlights. Without knowing the above feared that with the HIDs starting to fire up and hitting the start switch that the load was to much at that time and heating the contact enough to cold solder the wire. Still, went with leds turned 90 on the low beam, and HIDs on the high beam. We will see if the wire problem was that I did not get the base hot enough last time to really stick good. Think I did this time, but I always think I do things right. Sorry If I pooped in your thread Vern and Phillip.

Pics Pics of the lights are high low beams after the reoriented. The before you couldn't see.

Update, thought about it and was not happy with the way the lights were orientated in the housing. the Cree chips were vertical and the headlight reflector is horizontal pattern. So I cut some new index tabs and rotated the bulbs and... perfection. Not HID bright mind you. but great.

Yeah, errr no fn way. Total waste of time and money. High beam less than low beam HID's. Make you a screamming deal on some LED head lights.

Just got my leds installed. Will ride tonight and see if they are enough. Look to be very bright. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121278865595?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Ok first, I just looked at this thread. Second, great info and conversation. I been drinkin,,,,,, Not gonna get into the tech now or a dissertation. Cause. I was under the impression, and told Eric, that the field current was all that was shunted, so the electromagnet side of the alternator was defeated hence reducing the magnetism of that side and reducing the load and power generated ...... If it ain't is should be. rebuttal?

Are those 6 piston? I would think as long as the master is larger it would be harder not softer. Long as it feels good and stops good. I pull as hard as I can on the lever....stopped of course...to make sure it has some movement after what it normally takes to stop...cushion... and does not go all the way to the bar. All good. Mike, I have changed my settings on the zxx trees. Back to the top. Not lowered. Went back to the xx swingarm too. Tall bike now. Not really, but really different than before. Got a idea from the TSR linkage I wanted to try. Did some research into progressive and linear triangles. Got an adjustable link too. Wanted a more neutral turn response. Something intuitive. Your going to have to try it. Oh yeah... and a 1000rr rear shock as delivered.

Verrrrry nice! Hows it ride?

take the plug out of the end of the cct, and a small screwdriver that will fit inside and clockwise turn a little, see if it goes away. its a ratcheting catch. feel it? adjust the balancers by the book. #3 rod bearing gone. ever ride wheelies?

http://www.spieglerusa.com/ lines due to the fact the ends turn. Hate all lines that are not. They never go the way I want them to otherwise.

The switches are all the same, on off... The main thing with all the masters is the size of the plungers. Match that... Now some of the newer radial masters are radial...really. not linear. Brimbo stuff. get on their site and get into the differences. But for what your doing, not much to be gained in normal street riding, unless you ride really hard in the twisties. and for all up to race conditions. For stock look, there is a front master like the birds from the gold wing with a big piston. Should be good. I have one on the quad with radial calipers. Works. No reason to change the clutch side from stock. Lines and pads are where it's at after that.

Any nicks in the wheel can be touched up with the paint from the 01 bb. Perfect wheels other than that. I have some 929 954 bars with trick ends and grips. They are what you want. Fender is not show as it has some wear but nothing that shows. It is high dollar. You do know the silver is the base coat for the red bikes. More later. Really we need to call. Too much typing makes me crazzzy.

Missing the pictures. But, the links are bout an inch and a half shorter than the stock links. Figured would have to cut the coupler and maybe the threads of the ends too. I can give you a distance for mine with the top adapter. Oh yeah, carb throttle cables work for the additional length.

upper I used http://tyga-performance.com/site/index.php?cPath=72_1036_892_894 Rear master is the same on both bikes.

I went with the billet upper. Love it. The thing I ran into, well the lower did is the ram air tubes. I went with some button head allens I think. Cut the stops off the lower too and drilled and tapped for some allens and spacers verticle out of the lower to hit the frame. Yes, I cut and welded the stock links cause I could not afford the best way to do it. There are some adjustable links for the 14, and could be cut down and used to give your self a little room to set the tire off the ground on the rear. I had to build a few. Also, you need a upper mount built that will allow the 14 shock to turn 90 and clear the overflow bottle. I built one from a stock top shock mount and a shaft out of a link like the BB one from the frame to the triangles. The 14 wheels I have are red. 41 sprocket to get your spedo right. Pretty new rear pr3.

Spray alcohol on it. Methanol....

No rr stuff is not going to work. Narrow. Least the new stuff is.Big stem too. I have stuff to do this with, wheels and arm and shock and links modded etc. Been converting mine,,,a lot...Let me know, but been real busy.

I got mine from them but had to get some friends in England to take shipment and resend to me in the US as they would not send directly. I do have the tree cover left if anybody wants that. Pm me.

New Transmission Friction Damper In an effort to minimize the annoying ‘clunk’ of metal against metal that often occurs when motorcycles are shifted into gear from neutral at stop, particularly in cold conditions, the CBR1100XX’s engineers developed a simple yet effective new damping system that softens the jolt. Mounted on the transmission’s main shaft, this hard rubber ‘friction’ damper quickly slows the spinning main shaft when the clutch is pulled in to reduce the difference in speed between it and the stopped countershaft, thus reducing the shock to the gears on the two shafts as they mate, and significantly reducing the resulting ‘clunk.’ maybe the bearing seal....going to have to go look at one and spin it...

I see that just not in the parts.

Don't think that exist in a bird engine of either model.