Iceman_40

With my bike tuned for economy and flat highway I made it 200 miles still had 1/4 of a tank(according to the gauge).

http://www.jeepforum.com Lots of good jeepers on there that would likely be able to point you in the right direction. But it is likely the sensor mentioned.

It's simple the higher up you are the less Oxygen in the air, the bike puts less fuel in because there is less Oxygen. Gives you better MPG but less HP. For example on a dyno at sea level your XX makes 130HP. If you dyno your bike at 5000 feet you'd get about 20HP less. Most dyno's correct the HP reading to sea level BUT doesn't change that your bike made 20 less HP. Since you make less HP you need less fuel to make it. My XX was getting between 30-35MPG highway before I had it dyno tuned. After the custom map I was getting 40-45MPG at 140Km/h (85MPH). Keep in mind this is just at cruising speed and all highway(and +1T on the front sprocket). Before the tune on the highway 310Km was my MAX on a tank(digital dash and gas light flashed for at least 50-60Km) and when I pulled in for gas it was on fumes. After the tune the same 310Km stretch(no other changes) I still had more than 1/4 tank showing on the gauge. Both trips were made with full Givi luggage and the same gear/supplies on the bike.

Glad to hear that, I emailed them last night as I can't seem to order online from my postal code. Hopefully they will ship USPS to me.

I personally don't like the blue color of HID's. I've seen 35W Kits at 4300K and that color works great for me. I can't imagine 4500K being much off. From there website is says ... "55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit)." So I'm wondering if I should order higher K bulb to get the same white as 35W 4300K.

Anyone have HID's from DDM? Wondering on the color of the 55W 4500K kit. Some claim the extra W means you are over driving the bulb and need a higher K. But I got no experance with them. Ideally I'd like 4300K as apparently it is the whitest but at that price it is hard to go wrong.

If memory serves me right Adobe doesn't allow selling used software. I think someone was taking them to court over it, so you likely won't fine a legal copy. I believe CS4 is the latest version.

As long as you don't close it while the heater is going you should be fine. Once the heater is off it isn't consuming Oxygen or putting off any exhaust.

Bump for a nice bike.. BTW first 3 pics you'll notice you are missing a fairing bolt. Can really see it on the 3rd pic down.

I've got a 03. Normally riding on the open road it sits at 80C, idle it will go up to 103-104C before the fan kicks in and stays around that.

Most of the setups I've seen just had a fuel line running from Aux tank to main tank. Open the valve and it fills the main tank, of course these were mounted on passenger seat.

Ahh, good point, did not consider that. So less air friction offsets the loss of power... Most likely your engine didn't have as much O2 going in so it cut down the fuel going in. Otherwise it would run REAL rich. Don't think the drag would be that measurable. From 5500 feet to sea level I noticed a big diff when you jump on it, normal driving not so much.

I have all LEDS and fixed the problem by installing something like this, clickey it looks exactly the same. simple easy no fuss just replace the stock flasher relay. +1 don't bother with the resistor, they unload a lot of power as heat(need all the W we can get on the XX). Not worth the headache if you are doing more than one bulb.

I know some c-clips aren't suppose to be reused. No idea on the ones in the shock.

Never seen it happen at the rate you are talking but after 5000Km my clutch fluid was always very dark on the XX. Put in ATE Brake fluid and after 20,000Km still looks exactly like when I put it in. The stuff I have is the TYP 200. Gave Northman a jug to try not sure if he ever did though.

Check the connection at the fuel pump and work back if you don't hear the fuel pump kick in. Other wise check all the connections you had unplugged or maybe pulled loose.

They are smoking glue on the harness prices. The harness cost almost as much as the gauge, looked up the instructions and it is only 5 wires so no way I'm paying $58+ for a harness.

If you buy this one make sure it doesn't see water. I've gone throw 3 of them now. Won't put another on but that Acumen looks great going to have to look into it.

You wouldn't need to use the speedo healer to fix your speedo, I'd just use it to fix the pulse rate to the cruse. Would be very simple a diode and the speedo healer would do it. I just wouldn't install it the way they say to, I'd install it between the VSS and the cruse module. Speedo healer is designed to modify the VSS signal.

If the issue is the VSS, a speedo healer may work to solve your issue. It has a huge calibration range.

If the sound goes away when you pull in the clutch it is normal for a XX. Has a very heavy duty but noisy clutch.

What browser are you using? First thing to try is to clear the cache and delete the cookies.

I've put them on without any issue, just be careful routing the wires between the grip and the controls. As long as you keep in mind you need the wire to make a more gradual turn while sticking on the grip heaters you should be fine. Use a relay and switch for them to be safe.

Does it still work while on the center stand?

Sure you would be able to do it if you took the time. My remote for my Jeep's alarm senses distance and can auto unlock when I'm close. Personally I'll take a alarm/remote start over a fob, also nice to be able to fire it up before you get there on colder mornings. As long as the steering wheel is unlocked I don't need my key.