Hobicus

This would be perfect for my girlfriend... but sadly i don't have the $ to spend on it....

I will check my garage tonight. I might have a right lower I could let go...

???? Yeah, pictures please! Redbird explained it perfectly. The inner race and bearing were gone. There was no way to get to the back of the outer race. See above for the solution.

I got it out. What I ended up doing was using the dremmel, and cutting a groove for the screwdriver horizontally. Once I got it to move a little, I was able to get behind it from the top and finish the job. That sucked.

Thanks everyone for your replies. There's no ridge on the race that I can hit from behind with a drift or a screw driver. I will grab my torch from the house and give that a try tomorrow. Don't have a blind hole bearing puller, but maybe can borrow one at Autozone.

So I pull the front wheel off of my F3 restoration project, and find that one of the wheel bearings is toast. That explains why the front end feels like shit. The bearing pretty much came apart in pieces. All that's left is the outer race. Anyone have any tricks to getting it out?

I could haul it down from Wisconsin if you could find a way to get it down this way (or meet part of the way) before March.

YEA! Check your PMs....

Thanks for the pictures! I see the side covers are missing on the F3... Any dents in the tank? Is the upper fairing stay straight?

Oooohhh that F3 sounds interesting. Maybe pick it up at RacerXX?? Do you have pictures??

OEM.

Takes 3 minutes to disconnect the PC3 and take it out of the equation... why not do that first? It's possible that when it gets hot it has problems... a few seconds is probably all it needs to reboot itself. Yep.. check for bad ground/loose wiring. Also, check the bank angle sensor under the seat.

Oil pan doesn't have a gasket, just black RTV. I'm pretty sure you'd be OK with it, although if it were mine, I'd order the gasket and do it right once it came in.

You have my number, Mikey... Why didn't you call me?

I typically try to flush the brake/clutch fluid once a season, and change the fork oil every 15k miles. My understanding is as follows: Brake/clutch fluid soaks up water from the air. Typically this is not a problem in a closed system, but it does find its way into the fluid. Combined with the heat of braking, it breaks down, and can cause rust in the internals of the brake system. Fork Oil gets dirty... road grime, bugs, etc.. end up on the fork tube and make their way into the oil, turning it into sludge. The oil gets thick and can also increase wear of the fork seals.

What's so hard about pulling the drain plug that you think sucking the oil out from the top is a better solution?

How much cash will you leave in it?

Bank angle sensor is located under the seat on the XX. I'd make sure that's well connected and all bolts which hold it in place are ok. Not a horrible idea to tap it a few times just in case it somehow got stuck. Typically it doesn't fail suddenly, but it can create exactly the situation you're experiencing. Had a very similar problem on my 954.

Copied from your "Advice" thread in the pub: I can get you a Rick's stator for ~$115, and a Ricks RR for ~$87, plus actual shipping. If it were me, I'd go OEM on the RR, and you'll also need to order a stator cover gasket. In the end, for under $250, you'll have a running bike you know and love.

Dude.. I don't make anything on stuff I sell to the XX group. I will call tomorrow and get a price for a Rick's stator. I would go with an OEM RR though, unless you want to do an R1 swap. If you do, ping Bartonmd, he makes a connector for them.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53455 As long as you can start the bike, you can test the stator. Walmart sells multi-meters for $10. While you're there, you can buy a cheap ratchet set and some black RTV. That's all you need to replace the stator. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ They can overnight parts.

Good suggestions so far: Double check the vaccuum lines, although the bike will feel different, especially off/on throttle when those are not working. Been there, done that. IF the FPR was causing it to run rich, it's possible that one of the plugs fouled. It's also possible that the guy used cheap plugs when he replaced them (or attempted to gap them, destroying the iridium tips), causing them to wear out quickly.

Once you remove the caliper, you can slide the pads away from the buttons without removing them from the caliper. That should give you ample room to clean them before pushing them back. Removing the pads isn't overly difficult, it's one pin to pull and they drop right out. You can always remove the old pads, clean the buttons, re-install the old pads to use to push them back, then pull them out and put new pads in. We're talking about a minute or two for the swap, and, of course, practice makes perfect. While you've got the pads out, it's worth cleaning not just the buttons, the the end away from the pin hanger, where they fit into a clip. That can get gunked up and keep them from sliding smoothly.

Yep, stator's fucked. Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again. I'll be calling for pricing tomorrow for some other things... want me to see about the price on a Rick's stator? I already got it covered thanks so much. I replaced stator turned meter to acv now at idle I get 18 to 18.5 that sound right I am going on a long ride and don't want to get stranded. Yes, that sounds good. If you rev the engine, you should see it climb quickly to 80+ VAC. And, of course... do a running battery test: With everything connected, put your meter on DC and test across the battery terminals. When you rev up the motor (4000+rpm) it should climb to between 14 and 15v, assuming your battery is charged when you start.

Yep, stator's fucked. Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again. I'll be calling for pricing tomorrow for some other things... want me to see about the price on a Rick's stator?