silverbird1100

So these ASSHOLES at Interstate sold me a YTX12-BS a year and a half ago and that's actually for the earlier models. No wonder I was having problems running all this shit for a 99' (stator too.) SO mines an 02'. I need a YTX12S but the KOYO from motorcycle batteriesusa.com is a (K)TZ12S is this the same thing? If not what do I need? Thanks

Hey, could you let me know where that shop manual is? I only have the 99 and my 02' is slightly different

460 Watts @5000 The part numbers are 31120- MAT-004 for the 97-98 31120- MAT-E01 for the 99' and up Rick from Rick's motorsport said usually unless the first part (31120) is different it's probably the same part. You really can't argue with 390 vs 460 though... I still can't find any problems in the wiring. I'm just going to hope that my rectifier started over-working my stators just before the first one went out and the 360 watt was just too weak. If a brand new OEM recitifer, stator and battery doesn't fix the problem I'll probably sell it :evil:

Thanks Pete, got on one on the way for $157+air shipping about $10 less than the dick's at Ron Ayers. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: I just found out my 9200 mile stator was for a 97-98 XX :evil: are those 360watts? Hopefully someone with a manual will be able to tell me. :wink: Rick's does not sell Fi Model stators. I guess i'm stupid for not questioning the plug not fitting but they could have said something... Sooooo, I remember 2 days before my first stator went my bike was absolutely baking for a good 10 hours in a row with old crappy Bel ray dino oil and over using the fan. Maybe, just maybe that was enough to finish it off? I'll keep looking for a leak but anyone have a stock stator go out around 12K? Thanks

I went over all tests from the electrixusa flow-chart. There seems to be no more that .5 continuity for all connections and most more like .3. There is also a clean circuit from the recifier all the way back to the battery ground. My part# for the Rick's stator is 21-111 (It says '0Honda) on the invoice)and it did not have the right connector, we had to splice and dice but there were no leaks. I think I know why the first stator went, over using the fan manually :roll: but the second one may have been for a 99' :???: which I may have never noticed not running the headlight. Warchild, it's even darker than yours and even smells crispy. My recitifier is brand new so I'll have fresh compentents once I get my OEM stator. Is Ron Ayers "EXACTLY" the same as my local dealer or do Ron Ayers get the old leftovers? What I'd really like to know is, will a half faulty R/R have over worked my second stator? The bike cranked like a demon all last year :?: :?: :?:

Just got done inspecting. Yea goudy, I replaced my rectifier under the same test. My alternator is putting out 56V on one coil and nothing on the other 2. We checked all the connections and they seem to be fine, 3-5ohlms for all. The only thing I can think of is we had to rewire the three wires coming from the stator to the connector because the Rick's didn't have OEM connector, but it was fairly clean and seemed to work. :roll: I suspect the one from Rick's may have not been good from the start but I never knew since I didn't run the headlight. Just pulled the cover off and it's crispy just like hte forst one. WTF couild be causing this after 9200miles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think I'll just go back to OEM or should I?

So, at 12,000mi I had to replace the stator with a Rick's. Now at 21,300 it stopped charging. I immediatly figured it was the recitifer and the test in the tech manual confirmed it. Now with a new recitifier from Ron Ayers, yaaaaaay! it's still not charging :evil: :evil: :evil: I really could care less about the money to buy another stator but I'm really worried this problem is systemic. I was using a manual fan switch on the first stator then took that off when I put the 2nd one in. For the past 10,000 I've been running without a headlight to save juice and just flicking the high beam on when I want to be seen so, I havn't been taxing the system with high beams, electric vests etc... WTF is going on here. PLease Help.

I had this on mine for the first 12,000 miles. I'd do it again but just for the break-in. It was nice not getting it hot when the motor was new but eventually I was greedy and I'm pretty sure I fried my stator. Forgot it was on sometimes too. The the post 02' models are harder because it runs through the compuer. When mine was new and someone old me not to do this I'd have said in my Cartman voice "I do what I want" but now I wish I'd have left it alone.

Good choice. I've been debating tires for a good three or four months while it snows for 6 months here in Co. I like to make a decision and stick with it so I can adjust my style and set-up. I'm going with the pilots too :rockon:

I asked a guy about them at the Cycle World show. You don't want this tire on an XX. It's pretty much the same as the Metz Z6 only :twisted: SOFTER! :twisted: I was so excited about this tire but most of us here would be lucky to see more than 4000 from it.

Oh, and I also wanted to ask about wear. I've been told that since the 60 has a lower load rating it generates more heat and then more wear. It's hard for me to tell since I've been using the POS D220.

If grip were of no major concern, do you prefer the 60?

I compensated with front fork height. Right now they are at 34mm and 15mm of rear ride height. I think after figuring rear ride height, front ride height and front tire diameter I ended up with the same rake and trail as dropping the front 4-5mm depending on how bad I screwed up the calculations. That is probably irrelivant though because of the raised center of gravity.

A few years ago I bought a 120/60-17 D220 because I needed a tire from alocal shop and it was all they had. I almost immediatly started riding all over the front of the bike and for the past few years it's all I've used, I absolutly love them. They wear out super quick, faster than the rear but the front just feels so planted and turns like a dream. I've actually developed nearly all of my cornering skill in the past few years with the 60 so I'm wondering if I went back to the 70 everything would be diffeent now because the wear is getting rediculous and everyone thinks I'm crazy for not using the "normal" 70. Please help :roll: Thanks

I just talked to a guy at Avon. He said the "B" tire is no different, which is pretty lame of him since so many guys here have gotten better milage from the normal tire, correct?

That's pretty cool you can run them that low. Does Avon usually recommend less pressure than other tires, or is the norm 42 just too much? I bet they stick like hell, or is it made up for with the stiffer construction?

6000 would be just fine. I wiegh 165w/gear and carry 50lbs when I'm concerned about wear. What pressure do the Avon's like with that kind of load?

I got 4700 out of a D220 abusing it and over 5000 from another conserving it. I won't be wearing an Avon out this quickly will I? 4000? That seems a bit low? :roll:

Sport touring all the way. If I wanted to replace my tires after 3000 I'd stick with my beloved D220's Do I actually need to ask for the normal tire? It has the designation on the sideway, correct?

I'm going with the 45/46's after months of consideration. Just to be sure, I don't want the "B" tire right? How do I specify to the dealer what I want? I noticed after lots of searching on this site guys either wore them out in 4000 or less or went a good 8000-11,000. Is it possible those low mlilage tires were the "B"? What's the worst anyone saw from their Avon? Thanks.

Do I need to replace mine? HOw much do you need to spend? Goodridge sells them for $11 or Golan for $39 or F-ing Honda for $60? What size?

Amway!? That's wierd. you mean like network marketing?

I'm way down on the list at 21,000, mine's strictly for recreational use. I'm sure we have some 100,000 mile bike's I'd love to hear how they run.

Has anyone looked int Amsoil? I reckon their car oil is that same as the bike oil...If you can find a local dealer it isn't that expensive about $5/Qt but I'm still looking for a dealer in Denver.

I believe it's on FJRTech.com :grin: