Furbird

I say 97 because the center gauge looks like a speedo, it has 97-98 taillight, 97-98 brake rotors, and that color is not original. It's too dark of a red. Probably a repaint to customers choice, which happens to be a non-stock color.

I have a breaker bar that actually has a hole in one end of it. I put a regular allen wrench in it and slipped it through the hole on the breaker bar for leverage. it just about took the bike off the centerstand, so I know what you mean when you say it's tight (you all have fun with that one...)

If you want to get a general idea, try riding around with your center cowl off. Result? The water temp is higher because now that cowl is not forcing air up to the radiator. I put mine back on after one day.

If I remember correctly, I got about 16k out of my factory D205.

I run Continental Contiforce's which would be classified as a "cheap" tire. I get incredible mileage out of them, even with trips to the dragstrip, they grip well within my riding range, and they stick very well in both wet and cold conditions. I can do stoppies on a cold tire. I can do wheelies in the rain. Now I don't do that regularly, but it is possible. I can't comment on ride quality as I didn't buy a sportbike to ride good. There's only so much ride quality you can get out of a ~60" wheelbase; these are not Lincoln Towncars. I do know that they ride better than the factory Dunlops did. Since I bought my first set of Conti's, I have not had anything else on the bike.

Near Miami. Maybe some of the FUXXT crew can check it out for you.

RXX, it's yours for the taking. The local track has just posted up the payout sheets today and bikes are not even listed on it. I have asked about a points championship system, and if we have one, there is no sponsor for it and it will be up to those who show up as to whether we even want one (we have low attendance for bikes). So with no guaranteed money and no shiny trophy to shoot for, I have no purpose in buying a racing-only bike at this time. On top of that, the General Manager quit (we think "quit" is the right word) yesterday and we have a new guy there. I have no idea how he will run the show, nor what changes he wants to make, so using a significant portion of my reserve cash to buy a bike is just not a smart decision right now. The transport guy also emailed me and if he has to make a solo trip just with the two bikes, the price would be about $400. He could do it for 225 if I could wait long enough for him to get another one to bring down this way, but that would put Doug in a situation of either sitting on paid bikes or waiting who knows how long for a "word of mouth" buyer to actually buy them. Neither of those two options is something I would expect anybody to agree to, nor would I ask for them to do such a thing. I would have loved to buy this bike, but the timing is just not right. If I would have rented that truck last weekend like I had originally planned to, I'd be a nervous wreck right now after finding out about the racing AND management change within 24 hours of each other.

RXX, I am interested in the bike, but it's first come, first served. I have not contacted Doug yet for this very reason, because I want to get everything handled on my end first to make sure anything we set up goes smoothly. I won't be able to go up there until this weekend at the earliest, but if you get the funds before then, then it's yours. I'm still waiting on the transport company, and I need to talk to Doug to see how much of a paperwork nightmare this is going to be. If I can't do it all in one trip up, then I won't even worry about it and will just do it on bill of sale only. All I plan on doing is racing with it, and if you plan on getting it titled and tagged, I would much rather see it go to you. I will still continue with my plans at this point unless something changes over the course of the week.

Josh's transport guy contacted me today. He's going to let me know on a price Sunday. I'm still not going to commit to buying the bike until I can get all the details hammered out, because I don't want to call Doug and waste his time if something falls through. If everything works out to plan, this may be coming to Mobile by next weekend. Obviously, any parts I don't end up keeping will go on here first.

I would always start with the ground. My trailer used to do this as well. What's happening is that there is enough ground to run one signal at a time, but once both lights cut on, there isn't enough ground so they just kinda fade in and out. Reground it at the tongue and it should solve the problem. If that doesn't work, check or reground the plug on the vehicle side.

Thanks to JBowen's quick replies, I have an email out to a transport company. Secondary option would be renting a brand new Tundra from the local Toyota dealer and hooking up the enclosed trailer for a one day road trip. I really hope the transport works out because $3 a gallon @ 15 gallons per mile sounds awfully expensive....

U haul rents motorcycle trailers here. Maybe you could find a place/person to loan/rent you a trailer. For that matter rent a small moving truck with ramp. I have a trailer, just not one big enough to handle what could be two complete motorcycles. What I really need is a fullsize truck and pull my trailer behind it, but I don't know if Uhaul rents just a pickup truck. No nationally known car rental companies will allow you to tow with their vehicles. I don't even need the title, nor the drama that goes with it. This would become my dragbike and the Furbird would stay on the street.

I would have called just as soon as this was posted, but I have no way to go pick up two bikes. It's 5 hours away too which is what really pisses me off, because I have cash in hand.

As they say at Barrett-Jackson: SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!

Does that part number for the hypertech supersede or something? I'm showing that application to take a 30024 according to the ones on ebay, but I can't verify that because I can't access hypertech's site from work.

I just hand changed 4 tires on my gocart (which has wheels off of a golf cart on it, tubeless type), and even with that much sidewall, it was a major PITA. Never again will I complain about how much it costs to get my motorcycle tires changed at a shop.

Anybody know how much it would cost to ship this from Delaware to south Alabama?

I'd clean the pistons off, do a valve job, and get the heads resurfaced while they're off to prevent any problems from arising. I would NOT pull the bottom end loose to replace just the rings. If you're going to pull the pistons out, you might as well rebuild the entire engine. I can tell you this though. If the valve stem seals were leaking, that causes smoke on startup. Oil burnoff all the time is typically not valve stem seals. Since it's already apart and you want to get by for now, I'd do the above and button it back up. However, I would start saving up for a rebuild or another motor. It sounds to me like the rings are already causing blowby, so the valve job will help, but it's highly unlikely it's going to stop the oil consumption.

I actually ran my 12/49 combo on the bars the last time I went to the track, post I made about winning some money a month or so ago. That was stock rear tire, stock length, stock chain length as well. It will clear for a fact on wheelie bars as the solid strut replaces the rear shock, which allows you to line up the swingarm however you want it (I run mine as parallel to the ground as I can get it, which makes for almost perfect alignment for the chain to have maximum clearance). 12 is the smallest countershaft sprocket that is made. It's been a little while since I checked on it, but if I remember correctly, you can get an aluminum rear sprocket for an XX in as much as a 65 tooth. It is stupid high dollar, and completely useless IMO. With the 12/49, I have to shift BEFORE the 60 foot mark at the track, and the tire is about at it's adhesion limit, and that's with the stock motor with no mods other than the exhaust. I could understand a 65 tooth for a stuntbike, but the XX is way too heavy for full-on stunt use like that (although there is one guy I have pictures on with a stunt-modified XX).

I think I dropped the ball on this one. I got this post and the one about the Firebird engine one mixed up. Oh well, nothing new for me!

DOH! Replied to wrong post! AACK!

If you don't want that 14, I'll take it and add it to my pile of gears. I've run a 12/49 on my bike without hitting, but that was on wheelie bars. You can straighten the swingarm out and remove the suspension from the equation, which will make it clear.

What exactly is the advantage of getting this? I've never even heard of this mod for an XX before.

There is a company that makes a black tape that reflects white under light. The BMW guys use this on their side and top bags for night riding. Just throwing out the obvious here, but it needs to be said. You can't run a modulator on an HID. Captain Obvious signing out.

Uhhh, there is no pressure in the return line. :icon_wall: It just dumps in the tank. Clamping off the line would not cause it to show normal system pressure, though it may well burst the line. The regulator should not backflow, so leakage could not be seen here anyway. Note that I did say, in caps no less, TRY. I also said that I can't guarantee it would work. But there would be pressure on that line as it dumps back into the tank at a pretty good speed. If you leave that line off the bike and pressure the system, it dumps fuel out in a stream. I did not know that the extra bolt was for that purpose. Now I don't have to have a new hose made so you just saved me some money.