Furbird

If it's Dunlop 205's, I can believe it. I got like 16 out of my front and 12 or so out of the rear. Not to mention, as old as they are, they're probably hard as a brick. WAY past usable life. That's the first thing you'd have to put on it. No way I'd trust 12 year old tires, especially not on a bike. However, no way I'd toss 'em either. At this point you might as well keep them with the bike (never can tell what the Barrett-Jackson folks will start selling in another 10-20 years!)

Most of the Nissan's with the V6 have to have the upper plenum removed to do spark plugs. No special tools. 3.5 V6, the upper plenum gasket (which you can only get from us) is like $30 or so. Most aftermarket shops reuse the stock one, then they come to us to get the gasket replaced due to SES light on.

It depends on who you ask and what products they are using. For instance, here at our Nissan, we don't do flushes on most vehicles, we do drain and fills, and the customer is notified of that in advance. We don't have enough machines to do flushes for everything (as our fluids can't be mixed with different types), and the cost of said flush is prohibitive. You can't replace the filter in a Nissan transmission, as it is non-serviceable (good for life of vehicle). We do have a flush machine, but it is only set up for Matic D transmissions, as everything we sold up until 2002 had a Matic D type trans. The machine uses pressure, and is typically attached where the cooler lines come out. Old fluid is sucked out, and new fluid is pushed in, which completely changes all the fluid in the trans, torque convertor included. We always run 12 quarts through, which is far more than any of our transmissions hold, to ensure complete fluid exchange. A drain and fill only changes what's in the valve body and pan, and while it's not complete, it's better than doing no service to it at all. With our fluids costing 12 to 23 dollars a quart, you can understand why customers opt for that. In case you are wondering, in 5.5 years of being here, we have NEVER had a transmission failure with customers who did this service. Those who do nothing, that's a whole other story.

Now we're getting somewhere. The P0740 is what the other guy said, but it is causing your P0700, as that is the Transmission Control Unit. It's pretty common for both to hit at the same time, as the failure of the first part causes the issue with the second code. It's the solenoid pack, and it's more than the whole trans from Pull-A-Part. However, it is on the outside of the case. I would suggest buying the whole thing, putting the pack on your current trans, and rock out until the actual trans goes out, then you already have one for less than just the pack would cost from the dealer.

Mine does that everyday, the flickering on startup. I just hold it at 2,000rpm for about 10 seconds or so and it gives the HID ballast enough time to get out of maximum drain mode. Another thing is when you're sitting at a red light at idle, you can turn on the high beam and the HID will flash like a strobe.

I work for a Nissan dealer, but I have a call in to some friends over at Chrysler and he's researching it now. I'll let you know something as soon as I find out.

Repacking is a massive PITA, in my experience. More power to you if you decide to do it, but I won't ever go through that again. If you do decide to sell your can, let me know how much you want for it because I don't care how loud it is.

I mostly stick to Rotella myself, but I was diehard Mobil 1 back in the day. Unfortunately, Mobil can't seem to leave well enough alone and keeps changing their formula, so I can't keep up with what's wet clutch safe anymore. I bet I have 5 or 6 gallons of Rotella in the shop now and umpteen oil filters, not a single one of which says Honda anywhere on it.

I would lean more towards the fuel line itself. Mine let go at the crimps, and fuel was leaking out and down the vent hose to the ground. The only way I noticed it was by cranking it up and pulling the plastic piece back on the shifter side of the bike. Then I saw the fuel leaking from the crimp. If the regulator goes out, it's still combusting the fuel as it stays in the vaccuum lines or back to the tank, regardless it stays in the closed loop. Raw fuel smell indicates a leak. Not to mention, if the regulator went out it floods the engine with fuel if it's left sitting for several hours or overnight. That's how I found out mine was bad. Rode home Friday night, Saturday morning I have an engine with fuel overflowing the throttle bodies. Hydrolock!

My bike did the same thing and it ended up being a slight bit of corrosion in the connector on the negative connection on the coil. I replaced the end with a standard female spade connector from the parts store and no problems since.

Chains have to be shortened in twos, 110, 108, etc. They count the links individually, but you can't cut out just one single link as there would be no way to reattach it. If you take two links out, I'm fairly sure it would be too short to reattach, regardless as to how far in you ran your adjusters. You could have them all the way in and you still couldn't hook them back together with the axle in.

You have to take out two links to do what you want, which IIRC will be far too short for the axle to even slide in given the factory adjustment range. Pretty sure you're gonna have to live with it. Besides, you should be measuring your chain for proper adjustment as the factory marks are usually not very accurate. That extra inch of wheelbase will improve ride and cut down on the wheelies as well.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=54408 33032 for FI bikes.

Umm, why are you trying to unplug the fan? Remove seat, remove tank, remove airbox, use a 3/8" ratchet with a couple of extensions and a wobble to change plugs, reassemble. I don't even technically remove the tank. Get the fuel level low, and with a thick towel and some well placed items (trash can, chair, books, whatever) you can make a "table" that will hold the tank on it's side while you work.

If it was nitrous, I'd like to see how that was rigged. There's not much room between the tank and the top of the airbox to set up a standard fogger setup like I have on my dragbike. It must have been a bar or something of that nature, but that's still awfully tight. All of my stuff is mounted inside the airbox, and took several hours of planning to get to fit. But I'm EFI, you carbed guys may have a little more room than me.

OK, I searched, and I know somebody has posted this, but what is the correct key blank for our bikes? I have a 99, and it has no antitheft or anything. Trying to do the whole walmart or hardware store thing.

I know on my 99 dragbike, there are two of those test ports, one is ground-based back by the rear tire, and the other one is positive-based and is next to the valve cover on the clutch side of the bike on the frame rail. I had to bypass both to solve all my problems on that bike, not to mention completely replace a couple of wires because the corrosion had gotten through the entire length of the wire. I don't know if that applies to your bike, but it's worth looking in to.

I need the stator cover (left side of engine). Sending a PM.

I did no upgrades when I installed mine that I bought through the group buy we had here a few years ago. It flickers when you first start the bike up, but coming off of idle for about 15 seconds gets you past the startup draw. After that, no issues. As to the benefit, VISIBILITY, both for you at night and for other cars. There's no mistaking an HID. I have them in all my cars, and I won't go back. I actually hate driving my mom or dad's cars just little trips to the store or something at night because HID has ruined me!

I can't help you with the cams and compression thing, but the nitrous I can. Most people with an EFI bike do the "fog the box" routine, which is a 40 shot or less. That's all fine and dandy, but it gives you no competitive advantage, as anybody can bolt that up. The stock engine can handle more than a 70 shot in direct port configuration. The problem is controlling it. You put a 70 shot on a button and it will wheelie on demand in third gear at highway speeds. Imagine trying to handle that from a holeshot. So now you're talking about progressive controllers, or a timed setup, or only spraying certain gears, and your costs start going up. Like others have said, you gotta pay to play. So, my suggestion is this. You need to decide what you want to do with the bike. If you're going to drag race it, then you need to prep the chassis for drag racing. If you're heads up shootout style, you have to extend the swingarm. If you just want to get it to go as fast as you can regardless of the class you're in, you need to put wheelie bars on it. Only then can you make the decision as to how far you want to go with your power modifications. In my case, I knew that first of all I can't afford to go shootout style, because now you HAVE to have a turbo to run heads up. Second, I wanted to be able to undo anything I did and be able to ride it on the street comfortably. I chose bars because I'm a bracket racer, and chose nitrous just to see what it would do. I probably have $1500-2000 worth of nitrous stuff that I have acquired through ebay just to get the nitrous consistent and controllable, and it does not make enough difference to justify the expenditure and the bottle refills in my opinion. So now it's back naturally aspirated. If you want to be able to ride to a cruise-in or back and forth to work, my suggestion would be to keep all of your modifications to just the engine and leave it naturally aspirated. If you want a trailer bike that is nasty fast, you need to prep it as such. It's up to you.

To put nitrous on a carbed bird, you'll have to do direct port. So not only do you have to hide the bottle, you have to hide the fuel pump, 4 nozzles, 4 nitrous lines, 4 fuel lines, external fuel filter, wiring, etc. Not to mention you are talking about only a 10hp shot per cylinder, which are some VERY tiny jets. All of that will fit under the tank, BTW. But you'll have to panel off around it so no prying eyes can look in front of the rear tire and see the bottle, or in the gaps between the tank and frame, and anywhere else. A lot of work. Just mount it outside and let everybody guess the shot. The stock engine can handle about 240 or so HP before you start having problems, and most people with a nitrous system are EFI bikes that fog the airbox, which is about a 40 shot. I have direct port. And I am not most people.

I haven't seen a "Bottle in a Bag" kit in a long time. 100 shot on a rental car, anyone? BTW, that is a really good deal on that kit.

My mom needs one, but 14-16 hours one way is not exactly "around the corner"!

I can't believe they lasted an hour, to be honest. Surprised I didn't get beat to them!

I'll take 'em. PM'ing you now.