EVLXX

Question... What is Best to use to Fill a Large Crack that has formed? The largest crack is 1/4" or so. Short Back story, semi new Hardwood 3-6 months, dry climate, humidifier yes, but since the furnace has kicked on a few times... I think some of the wood Dried way to fast and Dry Cracked. I've read about sawdust and glue... but I'm hoping for some personal proven experience. Anybody?

You can fit a 14 in there easy... I was running a 14 in my bird before I changed some things around... and yes it was very nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-530-REAR-Sprocket-fits-Honda-CBR-1100-XX-1997-2003-44T-/231114879401?vxp=mtr

Did you ever go anywhere with this? I notice I'm late but, I'll add, if there is no issues with raising the elevation... then I would suggest a rubblization and top pour. Bonded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubblization We tested this process a few years ago, on a section of roadway that was originally built on the native soil that honestly is 100% expansive Clay, think pottery clay. The results have been unbelievable.... I never would have thought it would have worked this good. Using this method I would speculate you could pour a top pad at half the depth... say 2" and have a floor that even better than a single slab 4" Rent a Air compressor and Jackhammer.. break it all up into fairly even sizes, and pour over it. Done. And if door Height, etc, is really an issue don't forget, raising a detached garage up just a few inches is easy.

My 2 cents.. Loads of good points above. 1.Don't forget about Fiberglass insulation. It's cheap, it's easy to work with, and it's not flammable like Foam...etc. etc. 2.You don't want an Air Tight storage box, so if you seal that door up good, you had better figure out a way to exchange a small amount of air under your own controlled conditions. Vents (small, very small), One high, one low. Years ago... I made a small greenhouse off of the back porch with 2x4's and plastic, that I used over the winter to keep a small fish pond and plants from freezing. I used a small 750-1500W heater like this... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Patton-Electric-Utility-Heater-PUH680-WM1/17808701 .. because it was all metal and because it utilized a spring coil heater, as I did not want the ceramic. It worked great... and no it did not kill my electric bill, mainly because I only wanted it to maintain 35-40 degrees... and it was a small area.

I received my parts on 12.10.2013 They all look great, no surprise there, as expected, and the shipping delay was.... a little slow but... acceptable. .... Which brings up a question..... if Dealers don't have Massive warehouses to stock all the different parts for old bikes... then who does and where are they? Do the above mentioned Vendors have massive warehouses of parts, or are they themselves just middle men? I'm guessing middle men.... hence the 10 day shipping. Just thoughts....

Cush Drives..... You need to replace those??? Hu.. never have. Check other Online Forum Vendors... ya, not going to happen. Got an email from Ron Ayers, checking to see why I didn't complete my order, so I sent them a reply back. I explianed that I was price checking and looking for their shipping costs, and I told them they were 14% too high on their prices.... They sent me this responce.

Depends on the purpose... in Ounces.... where the Exact level is not extremely important... I use a Ratio Rite. For a more exact measure ... I have a few different Horse Syringes, I got from the local Feed store for a couple bucks. I think the one I use most is a 60cc. 1 fuid ounce US = 29.57 cc's

Your welcome... and good to know... ... price matching... I have not found anywhere cheaper to buy factory replacement air filters.... OE or not. And as for the front sprocket... well... it has the Dampener built in, and I'm tired of listening to the aftermarket one "sing". I want quiet.... from parts I don't need to hear... so that I Can hear the parts that I need too.

Well I'll add that Bike Bandit is Not winning any awards from me on any level.... My latest purchase from them, for my work, was an absolute pain in the ass. First off they sent me a order confirmation email in seconds, which was fine. But then they sent me a supposedly Fraud check email requesting further conformation.... 5 hours later... after I had gone home for the day. needles to say they canceled the order.... When I find out this all happened after the fact... I play a phone tag game with there customer service department... hopeing to get everything straightened out. Again.. I think everything is worked out... and go home for the day... Wrong!!! I get another email.. same shit... so I play the game some more.... Yada yada yada... I finally get there stupid ass security people happy and the order is processed... days after I started. ... then there shipping was by snail truck... well not really... it wasn't the truck that took an extra two days it was there shipping department... Needless to say... Bike Bandit will never be getting my order again. EVER!

Mobil 1 still has high levels of Z & P. 1376 ppm Z and 1223 ppm P

Since winter is fast upon us, I figure it's time for some maintenance. Of the long list that I need to accomplish, there are a few items that I have decided I want to go OEM on, those are the Air cleaner, the FPR, and a Front Sprocket. So... since I hate the semi-local dealership... I'm shopping online. Here is what I found. Maybe it'll help someone else as well. First Up... Bike Bandit. http://www.bikebandit.com/ Air Cleaner... 39.02 each...78.04 for 2 FPR .... 46.50 F. Sprocket... 56.87 Shipping... ? (I didn't even make it to that point, you'll see why as you go on) total.....181.41 + shipping Next Up... Ron Ayers http://www.ronayers.com/ Air Cleaner... 33.84 each...67.68 for 2 FPR .... 46.22 F. Sprocket... 55.20 Shipping... 18.00 total.....187.10 Next Up... Honda Parts Direct http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/ Air Cleaner... 29.83 each...59.66 for 2 FPR .... 42.83 F. Sprocket... 51.15 Shipping... 16.00 total.....169.64 And Last.... Direct Line http://www.hdlparts.com/default.asp Air Cleaner... 30.04 each...60.08 for 2 FPR .... 42.52 F. Sprocket... 50.78 Shipping... 7.50 total.....160.88 Closing thoughts.... I did not try and remember who sells what here, it's to difficult and convoluted most of the time... so fuck it... I did an internet search for OEM parts and the above mentioned popped up. As far as ease of use... The websites go in reverse order... Bike Bandits was the easiest to use and didn't have all the superseded bs. Direct line was almost the most confusing... but still... not hard, I cutting hairs here. And by NOT going to the Local dealership... I saved paying for gasoline.... a huge mark up on price (they are always 30-40% higher that anybody else).... and having to deal with some arrogant asshole behind the counter. (Fuck You Fay Meyers!!!) Like I said... Hopefully this helps someone else. Have a good day.

I have never heard of anyone having problems using Moog Ball joints... here.

As slowride pointed out... no need to get motrcycle specific Mobil 1... I have used the automotive stuff from Walmart... for... more years than I can recal with absolution, and I have not had a single complication from said usage. ps. Keep watch, there will soon be a thread in the garage ... about Mobil One 15w50... when I get the result back.

Although I don't fully understand why... I had this same problem when I switched from using Mobil 1 to Rotella 15/40... I am now back to using M1 15/50 and the clunky sticky feel is gone... Now the only time I miss shift is when I have my tennis shoes on and am being lazy.

+1 Nice!

Your welcome, But I can't take all the credit; I just shortened up the list, to only include the most relevant info. Said list is a copy from here... http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html The guy has done a great service to the entire motorcycling community with that piece right there. As for the Longer filters that are listed on the webpage.... 3.5 instead of 2.75 long... they don't work well with the stock header. They are too long, and will hit the header when you are trying to start the threads.

You are technically correct.... it would have no points on it. .... So, unless you want to prove that your posting was... well... pointless, please, explian.

+1 I too have often wondered how much radiant heat goes back into the Radiator... that's only inches away. Note record day time temps and humidty as well.

How do Kinks indicate wear ? To me, a Kink in the chain, where the chain wants to stay bent after going around the small front sprocket, means a Dirty chain, a Master Link that was tightened too much, or the use of a bad chain lubricant (causing the o-rings to swell too much). But NOT wear.... wear is Loose... wear is Stretched... wear is rust coming from inside the link. Personally... I lost track of when I took off my stock chain, but I'm thinking it was around 20K miles. At which point I changed it with the toughest chain I could find... an EK ZZZ chain. Which is still on there at 39K, and measures out to be only HALF worn.... So... yess the EK ZZZ cost a bit more, but it looks like it's going to last twice as long. PS. my suggestion is... 75-90W Gear Lube only.

Here... These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Motorcycle Filters. None are recommended. AC Delco PF2135 AMSOil SMF103 Carquest 85358 AC Delco PF2135 FRAM PH6017A Honda 15410-MCJ-000 K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. NAPA Gold 1358 Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. STP SMO 17 WIX 51358 Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. About 2.5 inches long. Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6. Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion. Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion. Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607 Made by Champion. Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long. AC Delco PF1237 Baldwin B1400 Firestone TF2876 Hastings LF113 NAPA Gold 1365 Purolator L14612 STP S-02876 WalMart SuperTech ST6607 WIX 51365 .......... I did not post the longer filters... since they do not fit well. The last time I could find the WalMart SuperTechs ST6607 at my Local store, I piad $2.88 each and I bought everything they had. (5 or 6)

Lots of pictures.... lots and lots... ... As for the Bike... Problem solved... Y/N? New voltage?

Wear limit.... 1% > pitch .... really? But, I found another article that said for chains with sprocket sizes smaller than 67 teeth... that 3% was an allowable maximum.

Hence why you should check your chain tension in various parts of the chain, by rolling your bike forwards or backwards. I wonder though... would that eventually just even out? I don't know... to be honest I never really put this much thought into Chain Wear. Chain Lube, Yes, Chain Wear... as for how to TEST for usable service life limits No.

How do you KNOW it's chain time ? That's an open question to all members. I'm curious if there is any difference in the testing and decision making processes.... here. I've always followed the stretch limit practice, myself.