Banshee

How much for shipping to Down Under?

Me too, please!

The price from Terry includes Gold Valves front & rear, new springs & reshimmed for my weight as well as fine tune settings after ride tests.

Just had mine done by Terry Hay at Shock Treatment out at Wallacia. Good service, Gold Valves front & rear. They overhauled & set up the 900RR rear I took along as well. Total cost ended up at ~$1200, including RR shock, spring collars to fit spring to shock etc.

Get suitable sized allen key for nut. Put long bar on end. Turn nut. It worked for me?

I think I used a ring spanner over the end of the allen key the first time. After that I could just do them with the allen key alone. The '98 has allen screws, the latter ones have a hex bolt.

The manual in the latest BBs say no more than 10% ethanol. I have run mine for most of the last 18,000km on E10 95 & consistently got 17.5km/L. Recently (last 4 fills), due to where I was when I had to fill it, I tried BP 98 RON (no ethanol). When I previously used various fuels, my mileage stayed consistent at 17.5km/L, (mostly Shell standard unleaded 91, E10 95 & V-Power 98), but I have now found that my usage has gone from 17.5km/L to 19.3km/L for the same commuting that I always do. Will try on the Shell V-Power again, when they actually have some. Refinery problems mean they have been out of stock here for about the last month!

I have never heard of a 5 speed BB. No mention in the manuals I have seen? Are you certain they exist?

Sounds like it could be a fuel issue. The carbed 'birds have a mesh filter in the tank above the fuel tap, it may be partially blocked by contamination & limiting your fuel flow. Maybe you got a bad batch of fuel at some point?

Goodgridge also do a full 11 line kit in braided steel. I had one fitted to my '98. Works very well. Takes all the squish out of the lever & pedal. I got them locally about 8 or 9 years ago for $600AUD at the time.

I had mine done about 2 weeks ago. 2nd BB I've had done. The forks had the compression valves replaced & the stock rebounds reshimmed. For my weight the stock rebound is ok. Interestingly, it seems the Honda may have played with the design again & they did not need to drill a bled hole in the '07 fork rods. (They did in the '98/'99 ones). I also had the springs replaced with Racetech ones. MUCH nicer to ride. It was set up for my standard commuting etc, not for track & all those small harse bumps are a thing of the past! I also had a '94 RR shock to replace the stock rear. Last time I had the stock overhauled with a Gold Valve with great success, this time I wanted easier adjustability for preload etc so I had the RR one done with the Gold Valves & reshimed & resprung to suit me. All up cost was ~$1200AUD for both ends. Rode the bike in in the morning, watched them strip the bits down & rebuild them & rode home in the afternoon. With a couple of test rides to get it set up properly before I left. Oh yes, they also built a 6mm extra length/travel into the rear, so I don't need a shim on the top.

Bugger! Where did it say online that the bird had H4's? It has ALWAYS had H7's. Every place I have seen says this.

I just had my forks rebuilt with Racetech springs & Gold Valves. When they assembled them, they used 5wt oil. If you are only changing the springs though, 2.5wt might be ok. The difference is in the diameter of the oil flow holes in the valves. The OEM ones have holes about 1.5-2mm diameter, the gold valves would have been 4-6mm diameter, so they let the oil flow better, controlled only by the shims.

I had a set of Goodridge lines on my '98 bird. They take out all the initial squish from the lever & pedal & have much better feel than the OEM rubber lines. Not cheap as there are ALOT (11 or 12), bits of hose, but that is why they make such a difference.

I have 14,500km on my OEM Dunlop atm. Probably get another 4-10,000 out of it...

It will be a roughly 1/4" rubber hose running to the valve on the bottom of the tank from the manifold just below the #2 carb. Remove the line from the carb & suck. You shold not get a flow of air, it sould just open the diaphragm to let fuel flow. Or for that matter, check that the hose itself is ok, is secure, no holes etc. Let us know what you find. It certainly sounds similar to what happened when I rode off after working on the bike & forgot to turn the petcock back on...

The easy fix is... ignore it. This is standard for all BBs of all years.

Bikes, unlike cars, use constant mesh dogboxes. The gears are constantly meshed together, but one of each pair freely rotates on the shaft. The dogs are essentially a disk that is mounted splines on the shaft with cylindrical "dogs" that lock into matching holes in the gear. As one gears' dogs disengage the next engage, thus changing gear. Well, that's the (very) quick and dirty explanation. edit: Oh yes, the gear selector forks are what push the dogs in & out. Which is why gears don't change properly wheh the forks get bent.

I put a set of '99 FI headers on my '98 carbed bird with no problem. That with a few other things got me a torque curve that sat between 120 & 123Nm between 3k & 10k. (At least according to the dyno printout...)

Yeah, I ended up using the saw on my Swiss Army knife and a Dremel to finish it. Then I found that the ends of the bars are an inch different in height? Took them back off, checked them on the bench and found that they are at different angles... I guess one or the other is bent... Now I just need to figure out which one and take it back for a swap...

I just got a pair for my BB, cost me $150AUD from a wrecker. Do any of you who have done this had to move the brake lines a bit from the standard position? I found that the brake line positioned the lever so that it hits the throttle lines where they come out of the bar. I'm going to have to take the brake line off and move it to the other side of the alignment bit so I can rotate the lever down a bit.

I recall a Laser slipon system that you could get either as twin pipes or a single pipe and a cap that went over the left outlet from the mid section.