Banshee

I have often found that after some time, usually several pad sets, there is a lip around the edge of the disc rim. This is the first bit to start rubbing when the pads are getting close to end of life. The longer the disc has been in use, the bigger the lip & sooner it starts rubbing. Just think of it as an early warning system for when you don't look at the pads often enough.

Yeah, D205's were one of the OEM tyres. For my money, the Roadsmarts and Angels are the best I have used recently. I prefer them to the PR2's for my riding.

3mm back on the left is almost exactly what mine is! I use that to set it initially, but check every so often with a piece of string if it feels off when riding. Also after tyre changes or services where they adjust the chain, since even though I tell them it's off, they always set it to the same marks on both sides...

Plugs from the outside, (sticky cord type), are temp fix only! just enough to get you home or back to the shop for a proper fix. I had that rear with 2 mushroom (actually they really look like inlet/exhaust valves), on for a track day or 2 with no issues. They are about 1 1/2" in diameter where they get glued on the inside & ~1/4 - 3/8 thick where they go through the tyre & get cut off. (At least the ones I've had on my tyres were.)

I feel for you, I just found a nail in my new Pirelli Angel this morning. Will be taking it for a patch some time this week. As long as the puncture is in the tread not sidewall there is usually no problem. And the mushroom patches that are applied from the inside are great & last the life of the tyre. The regs down here say max of 2 patches & they must be >120 degrees apart. I've ridden for a long time on a rear with 2 plugs in the past...

I had ~185,000km on my '98 when it was killed by cheesecutter. Currently have 62,000km on my '07. No problems other than the usual on the '98 (CCT, RR, stator). None so far on the '07.

I meant I have it on the BB now. I don't want to lose it! Certainly not to gear change switches...

How long before someone comes out with a set of rearsets with foot shifter built in for it? That change up paddle is where my high beam flash normally is! I want my passing light, keeps the cagers honest(ish)...

Also depends on the model of BB you have. My '98 had a big loose one secured at the top by looping over the frame mount & under the hook mounted on the sump for the lower screw. My '07 only has some glued onto the inside of the panels.

I had a set of the Goodridge lines on my '98. They were fantastic. SS banjos, & came with all the washers you need to replace the used ones. My only grpe was the way the one from the rear master to the rear brake ran, but they may have changed that in the last 10 years.

There hasn't been a change to the 'bird exhaust system since they went from carbs to injectors in '99. Case in point, I put '99 model headers on my '98 'bird, years ago. So you won't have a problem with the Akro. For info, I now have an '07 with Yoshi 4-2-1 installed. The main thing you will need to consider is the added cost of getting a PC3 and O2 sensor eliminator to keep he fueling correct after installation.

:icon_doh: Strange, I read that & then it completely left my mind by the time I got to the bottom. I blame work, it turns my memory into a collander.

He doesn't have the original headers as he bought the bike with the D&D 4-1 already in place... Yoshi do an RS3 4-1 full system for the BB, so if it fits, theirs should do the job. Not sure about any others, though.

Those pillion peg hangers are also prone to bending, (particularly the left one). From heavier pillions, or just from getting on/off the bike. But yes, try the clamps on the outside of the hangers, that's what I did with my Yoshis on my '98.

I have occasionally done this, but it was usually on dodgy surfaces. Oily patch or gravel on road. Mind you, even the original ride reports when the bike was first released mentioned that this can happen, but that was journos on a race track. They also commented on the scuffed fairings some of them came back with... I think the quote for the brakes was that they were great on the road, but not too good for the track, unless you liked backing it in Gobert style.

Delkevic have 4 types of cans, 350mm or 450mm in either stainless or titanium.

I got a sound level meter & measured my 450mm Ti Delkevics at the specified distance & angle. Even without the baffle, they came in at 2dB under the limit, (92 under 94) at 3kRPM. With the baffle I measured 89dB. OEM were around 82dB. Down here, most people are ordering from US & paying the shipping for Yoshis as the budget option, since they are ~$1200+AUD but you can get them shipped from the States for <$900AUD. These cost me $785AUD local. If I had had the cash, I would have preferred the TBR CF, but that was not to be. The really nice thing is, the OEM cans with cat were going this nice light straw colour, so it was hitting 290C - 340C. They came off & '98 non cats went on. Still couldn't toch them after a ride though. On with the Delkevics and with baffle in, I could touch them for ~1/2 sec before "ouch!" With baffle out, after a ride, I can leave my hand on the can. It feels hot, but not enough to burn. With 3 kids under 10 (1 under 3), who often come up to see me as I get home from work, it is good to know they are that much less likely to need to be taken to the Burns Unit... Doesn't matter how many time you say, keep back, it's hot...

Here is a pic of the current position. Adjustments won't change it significantly.

I had an oval RS3 vintage '99. They were not particularly loud, but the tone from them hit a harmonic with my helmet & the sound resonated in it. Helmet off standing by the bike, no problem. ok quick update: Picked up a sound level meter & did some checks. The Authorities specs here say to measure noise at 525mm+/-25mm from ehaust tip at 45degrees to gas flow at same height. SO... idle / 3000rpm / 5250rpm Baffle in: 79dB / 88dB / 98dB No baffle: 82dB / 92dB / 98dB By the time I was at 5250rpm, the main source of noise was the engine, not the exhaust, so I put the meter level with the back of the tank at about 500mm and got ~102dB at 5250rpm... edit: oh yes, I found the spec for the limit & they say 94dB, so even with a potential 2dB tolerance for the meter, they are basically legal down here baffle or no.

Ordered them on Friday, he said they would be packed for shipping friday, sent monday, expect them probably wednesday/thursday. They were waiting when I got home, tuesday! Score 1 for prompt delivery. Put the box on some scales when I got in as it felt suprisingly light, total weight in packaging, 7.9kg, (17.4lb), each (no cat) OEM can is 5.9kg (13lb) so >3.9kg (8.6lb) weight saving straight off the bat. Went on fairly easily, though I had a bit of trouble getting the left pipe off first. After it was off, I realised there were 2 bolts on the clamp, not 1... Still playing around with positioning the pipes to get the angle right as the mids are separate to the cans. Made more difficult as the OEM gaskets are made to be quite slipery & no matter how tight you do them up, it can still move around. Rode to work today with baffles out, ok on the freeway, you can actually hear the exhaust note instead of just the engine and chain. Seems quite loud in slow traffic, but not obnoxiously so, (I think). I'll try it with the baffles in later as they do make a substantial difference. Makes it quieter and takes out some of the low frequency sound. Doesn't resonate in my helmet the way the Yoshis on my '98 did, so don't need to go with earplugs all the time as I did with the Yoshis on. Might pick up a cheap(ish) sound level meter & see how loud they really are.

Usually caused by the cables just being a bit tight. The other thing to try is the cable adjuster on the right bar. Rerouting the lines would be better though.

The ram ducts on the carbed birds run to the oil cooler. When they went to injection, they used the nostrils for ram air to the airbox & moved the oil cooler down to the top of the radiator. edit: I have read posts by a few people who tried ram air on carbed birds and the bikes didn't like it. The carbs are not set up to handle the higher pressure and the metering went to hell until it was extensively recalibrated.

I guess I'll find out what they are like first hand. I've ordered a set of 450mm titaniums. Suspect they will be a little quieter and deeper in tone than the 350s which is what I'm after. Should have them by Wednesday or Thursday. I went for the Ti as the normal costs are $239AUD/can for SS & $450AUD for Ti, but they had a big shipment of Ti come in at a good rate & are selling them at $299AUD/can.

Thanks for those. :icon_clap: A bit hard to tell with the engine noise, (so they can't bee too loud I guess!), but from the clips no baffle sounded a bit like I remember the Yoshis on my '98 did. :icon_thumbsup: I reckon some are now on my very short list!

I see the problem! Hope it works out. I lost the rubber from my '98 and replaced it with a bolted on piece of brass. Then with the '07, I got one of the center stand stops just after the rubber fell out of my '07 (with '98 pipes). I put my spare '98 pipes on (I had Yoshis on the '98 at the time of it's death), as the cat in my '07s was heating the mid pipe to ~340C, judging from the colour the stainless was going...