Banshee

I had one! A '98 Candy Apple red. After I had made several mods, I did, anyway... The relevant ones were the: K&N airfilter, '99 headers, Yoshi slip ons, Factory Pro ignition advance (6 degrees, I would have decreased the advance to 4 degrees but couldn't get the crank bolt out again... ), Run on 98RON fuel (or it would ping due to the 6 degree extra advance). I never bothered rejetting as it wasn't too lean. Just a little, so that it popped on overrun when changing down to stop. With that done, the dyno gave a (corrected, I believe) reading of 122kW & 123Nm. The torque curve was 120Nm - 123Nm from 3kRPM to 10kRPM and a really nice smooth curve. Power was a straight line up to max. No dips anywhere. I believe that the '99 headers & Yoshis did most of the work in getting rid of the dip. As engine noise, (down here at least), is measured at 1/2 of the RPM at which max power is developed, it makes sense for Honda to tune the exhaust to suppress excess noise at that point. For the BB, that falls right where the dip is...

On my '98. I had a Factory Pro advancer set to 6 degrees, K&N air filter & Yoshi slip ons. Completely got rid of the big dip in the torque & gave a really flat curve from 3-10kRPM (between 120 & 123Nm right through the range). At that advance, I did have to run premium all the time or it would ping badly, however.

The pedal operates the center pistons on the calipers. It operates the rear and the front right directly. The front left is operated via a 'delay' valve. As the front left comes on, it applies pressure to the rear outer pistons via the secondary master on the fork leg. All the outer pistons are supplied by the front reservoir, the rear only supplies the center pistons. If you were pressing hard enough on all the brakes to compress the pad material, when you release the front brakes, the pads would push back & the pedal would get harder or push up, not get softer. Other than air, I have no idea what might cause what you describe. Has a pad worn unevenly due to a stuck piston on a calliper, perhaps? Or a sticky floating pin, maybe?

I adore my Pro-Oiler! 81,000km on the original OEM chain/sprockets, still not at the adjust limit and no tight spots either!

Touching the bulb can leave fingerprints that will etch & cause the glas to fail in time, but if it just the filament burning out, fingers aren't the cause. I had several expensive bulbs go & went back to fairly plain ones that lasted ok. They just couldn't take the bike vibration. Now with HID, all is good in the world.

I have noticed this. I examined the tyres & found that I have worn a flat spot in the center of both the rear & the front, as most of my riding is straight along the motorway to/from work. Once I get off the flat onto the relatively unworn parts, it turns & feels as good as it did when new. But it was a bit unsettling the first time, I thought the front had slid out by a couple of inches. Of course it was on a particularly cold day, on the 2nd corner from home on the way to work... Initially I thought it had slid, but caught once it got to the softer side, closer look made it clear about the flat spots, so now I just try to ignore it. Now it is just like the Michelin & Bridgestones I have had in the past.

You are welcome. Remember, free advice is worth every cent!

On my '98 carbed bird, a K&N + Yoshi slip ons (& later, '99 headers), cured the flat spot. And they weren't too loud. With the injecteds, the K&N is in a flexible surround that replaces the O-ring in the airbox lower. The K&N for the carbed birds, is in a hard surround that uses the airbox as is.

I tend to rotate the pads around to even out the wear, then replace them all at once. They wear unevenly due to the DCBS, particularly if you use the rear a lot.

There are 2 vent hoses on the back of the carbs, normally that are clipped together, but open to atmosphere. (I think for supplying ambient pressure to the back of the diaphragms.) There is another vacuum hose from #2 or 3, that should go to the back of the petcock on the underside of the tank. There are fittings on the other 3 carbs that match that one, they are all on the engine side of the carb & are used for balancing them.

It just runs down to a "T" piece which connects to open air at the rear and... open air at the front somewhere. I think it is mainly so that when the tank is full, if a bit of fuel splashes into the breather tube, it runs down & clear of the hot engine, instead of onto it...

I have often found that after some time, usually several pad sets, there is a lip around the edge of the disc rim. This is the first bit to start rubbing when the pads are getting close to end of life. The longer the disc has been in use, the bigger the lip & sooner it starts rubbing. Just think of it as an early warning system for when you don't look at the pads often enough.

Yeah, D205's were one of the OEM tyres. For my money, the Roadsmarts and Angels are the best I have used recently. I prefer them to the PR2's for my riding.

3mm back on the left is almost exactly what mine is! I use that to set it initially, but check every so often with a piece of string if it feels off when riding. Also after tyre changes or services where they adjust the chain, since even though I tell them it's off, they always set it to the same marks on both sides...

Plugs from the outside, (sticky cord type), are temp fix only! just enough to get you home or back to the shop for a proper fix. I had that rear with 2 mushroom (actually they really look like inlet/exhaust valves), on for a track day or 2 with no issues. They are about 1 1/2" in diameter where they get glued on the inside & ~1/4 - 3/8 thick where they go through the tyre & get cut off. (At least the ones I've had on my tyres were.)

I feel for you, I just found a nail in my new Pirelli Angel this morning. Will be taking it for a patch some time this week. As long as the puncture is in the tread not sidewall there is usually no problem. And the mushroom patches that are applied from the inside are great & last the life of the tyre. The regs down here say max of 2 patches & they must be >120 degrees apart. I've ridden for a long time on a rear with 2 plugs in the past...

I had ~185,000km on my '98 when it was killed by cheesecutter. Currently have 62,000km on my '07. No problems other than the usual on the '98 (CCT, RR, stator). None so far on the '07.

I meant I have it on the BB now. I don't want to lose it! Certainly not to gear change switches...

How long before someone comes out with a set of rearsets with foot shifter built in for it? That change up paddle is where my high beam flash normally is! I want my passing light, keeps the cagers honest(ish)...

Also depends on the model of BB you have. My '98 had a big loose one secured at the top by looping over the frame mount & under the hook mounted on the sump for the lower screw. My '07 only has some glued onto the inside of the panels.

I had a set of the Goodridge lines on my '98. They were fantastic. SS banjos, & came with all the washers you need to replace the used ones. My only grpe was the way the one from the rear master to the rear brake ran, but they may have changed that in the last 10 years.

There hasn't been a change to the 'bird exhaust system since they went from carbs to injectors in '99. Case in point, I put '99 model headers on my '98 'bird, years ago. So you won't have a problem with the Akro. For info, I now have an '07 with Yoshi 4-2-1 installed. The main thing you will need to consider is the added cost of getting a PC3 and O2 sensor eliminator to keep he fueling correct after installation.

:icon_doh: Strange, I read that & then it completely left my mind by the time I got to the bottom. I blame work, it turns my memory into a collander.

He doesn't have the original headers as he bought the bike with the D&D 4-1 already in place... Yoshi do an RS3 4-1 full system for the BB, so if it fits, theirs should do the job. Not sure about any others, though.

Those pillion peg hangers are also prone to bending, (particularly the left one). From heavier pillions, or just from getting on/off the bike. But yes, try the clamps on the outside of the hangers, that's what I did with my Yoshis on my '98.