porterb123

Got to be a sensor. Maybe off the radiator. Try following the wires off of the fan motor.

Battery Tender or Battery Tender Jr. I've been using a Jr. for 5 years now and yes it will work on car batteries, just takes alot longer. A standard car charger does not condition and maitain the same way as the Battery Tenders does, from my reading

http://www.tsrjp.com/ I don't think they make the front end kit anymore

Have them check the bushings as well. If the bushings are worn, it will allow extra movement in the forks that can wear out the seals earlier and allow fluid past the seals

Isn't that at the crank? No

I normally ride naked in the city

Couldn't have said it better myself. And how sweet are those Pazzo levers anyhow!!! :icon_hump: Suuuuweeeeet

Mine is a 2000 model and it is only the 99 and 2000 models that are affected

Rode to work today and for the first time I noticed my fuel injection light flickering. Got home and pulled the rear cowl off, including my wingrack and got down to the test block on the left side near the rear passenger footpeg bracket to frame connection. Here's that pic...note the corrosion Next pic is of the cap with prongs that I hooked a battery and test light up to to see which wires were connected Next pic is of the block from what I am calling the front...non latch side, for wire color and grouping This is the rear side shown for wire grouping Next pic shows the front side group 1 of wires, 2 heavey gauge white with green stripe and smaller white with grey bar, to be tied together Next is the front side group 2 wires 2 light gauge yellow with red stripe tied together Next is group 3 front side of 2 smaller gauge green with grey bars and 1 larger gauge green tied together for a total of 8 wires on the front side Last pic is of the rear side of the block...all 10 wires tied together I solders these groupings together and taped up individually, the all into one and pointed it upwards and zip tied to the frame. Yes it works and no more flickering light. On the UK site, there was 1 more wires on the front side than mine. Those post are hot on my cap but there are no connecting wires to them. Must be for Euro accessories. Took about 2 hrs for me including drawing a wire diagram and testing connections

I had trouble finding the correct Pazzo levers to fit my master cylinder that I thought came from a CB400SF, 5/8" bore. Mike sent me a total of 3 levers to try, turns out to be the F-18 perch that fits...same as the CBR600Fi. My fault for not doing enough research, I ordered the one for the CBR954, but Mike helped out anyway. This is the kind of person I want to do business with! Porter

While they may use the same levers (and I believe the consensus was that the F4i and 954 do not, anyway) the m/c may still be completely different- no reason to expect the numbers on the m/c to match. Sorry, I'd love to help, but my access to the bike has been a bit limited since I chucked it off a mountain in northern California a couple months ago. Mine did have the threaded mirror mount, if that helps at all. Ahhhhhhh the saga of customizing. I'm in touch with Mike @ CTS and sent pics of the stock and Pazzos side by side, as well as the mc part #. Hopefully it will be just ordering the F18. How many fucking mc can Honda make that require a diff. lever???? I do now remember your bike situation.....a little bit of Vodka clouds the memory. Thanks brother

Thanks, I read that thread and noticed that my mc part # does not match and doing an internet search has yeilded nada. I have emailed TSR to ask what the hell this mc comes from. It does not show up for the CBR600Fi or the 954. I just looked. My mc does have the threaded mirror hole. You think I need the F18 mount. Any way you can measure the thickness of the lever where it inserts into the mc itself? Thanks for your help

Was the Pazzo # F29

Just got the levers in, stock clutch side fits fine. Brake side from Pazzo is F29 for the CBR954 as I have what I believed to be a CB400SF master cylinder from TSR. Honda part # is 45510-MY9-871 I did the research before ordering. Pazzo brake lever is about 1/4" too thick to go into the pivot bolt area. Any quick answers?? I'm gonna do a search on the Honda part #

Damn, I typed the answer and had a glitch...here goes again. I have used mine to charge a car battery that was larger than 2 bike batteries, so size will not be a problem. My only concern would be if 1 battery was bad and 1 good, would the brain of the Jr. freak out. Battery Tender does make a multi bike charger

I did the same. Another of the same

2000 model TiForce full exhaust No PC K&N 18Tfront / 45 R Mid 40's cruising 75 or so Mid to upper 30's in town No I do not ring the snot outta her

If memory serves me correctly, I've heard that you will need a longer clutch and brake lines to use that setup

What about the wiring loom corrosion issue that has been discussed here before. It is a taped up block on the left side near the tank seat junction that was used at the factory to test the wiring, then capped off and taped up. It can corrode and cause the problems like you are describing. Do a search on wiring loom corrosion here

Thats alotta ass. He's gonna need a wide angle lens NBL

Add some Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase and ride it like Joe said.

Post a picture. Need info on the surroundings, substrate, etc. to know how to answer

I used 2 small screwdrivers. 1 to depress the ring and the other to pry the ring forward at the same time. Repeat on the opposite hole. After lubing the rubber, I threaded a bolt into the inner weight, put the bolt in a vise and hit the clipon with a dead blow mallet to get the weights out...mine were stuck

Give a status report when you get there

Hit the starter button with the plugs removed