porterb123

Anyone know offhand what the correct weight oil is with gold valves and 1.0 kg spring 190lb rider?

I have a set on the way right now. Thanks for the reminder to check and grease before the install

I finally did it... I searched the site and got the pics posted by Porterb123's post. I compared his to the UK guy who posted his stuff. I tried to follow directions to the letter. :icon_think: The only other thing I did is add heat shrink tape to the whole works before I zip-tied it to the frame. I hope this works! My battery was replaced just a few months ago, so that took care of that possibility. I also took apart as many other connectors as I could find while my bike was apart, inspected and cleaned them, and wire brushed all the grounds I saw and bolted them back. So far the bike is still disassembled yet runs fine. The FI light is off (for now), but it has gone off before with other attempts and come back to haunt me as much as two months later. I'll pray that blasted light stays off! I am glad to see I am not alone, I have only just begun to see the F1 light issue on my 99XX , were did you find the step by step, and pics, this sounds like not a small job, and any help would be appreciated. Yig Here you go http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...+american+style

I have ordered new seals/ bushings/ copper washers and O rings . The oil has not been changed since I joined this forum, so I am going to change out the internal wear items while doing this. I have rebuilt other front ends, but not an XX with RaceTech internals. Is the anything to look out for with the Gold valve setup. I also ordered the All Balls tapered bearings for the steering stem and will polish the fork tubes while everything is apart.

Yes, you can assume that. You do need to remove the top nut from the threaded rod portion and cut the rod shorter. On the kickstand side, I cut off the arm that you use to snag the stand with your foot. That was the piece that interfered with my foot and shifting. I also did the 6mm shim to the rear shock, so while the stand was off I heated it up and straightened it to make the bike sit more upright. Lower the shift lever 1 groove down....works perfectly. You can still easily put the side stand down using your foot on the bottom foot portion of the stand. Hope that helps

The bearings are sealed, no grease. PersonallyI clean the axle with wd40 and a rag than smear a little gease on the axle ...wipe the grease seals clean and slide'er back in.

K S Cycle, Works Address: 5903 Highway Blvd, Katy, TX 77494 Phones: (281) 391-4131 Kevin Stasney is the owner. He added a big bore kit and valve job to my CB1100F. He is a very good mechanic...builds race motor for people. CycleGear for tires.

I disagree. If you've kept everything clean, and the seals are in perfect condition, there is nothing wrong with re-installing them. Especially at such low mileage. Lubricate the seals & pistons liberally with clean brake fluid when re-assembling & you should be fine. Check for leaks when you're finished bleeding. Also, piston seals will not "blow out" on hard braking. They may leak, but won't fail catastrophically due to their design. Please don't ask me to ride your bike, I value my life! You don't want to ride mine either!! When I delinked a few years back and had to disassemble the calipers for drilling, I reused my perfect looking seals and have been fine since then. They are really nothing more than a flat O ring. If there are no nicks or abrasions or cracking when bent, at that low mileage they should be fine

What's not normal is to ride at 9K plus in second gear for 2 plus minutes. I've never done that so can't comment on the jerking. Why would you do that

I have had a RainSoft system installed for about 8 years now. It makes a noticeable difference in the amount of mineral buildup as well as the slick feeling while lathering up . Bad part is the damn thing cost 3K, but it works and has a lifetime warranty. It has had to be repaired 3 times. Once for the filter medium and twice for the auto flush valve. Labor is not free. I'm glad to have this setup. Sears has a similar unit....maybe Culligan, as mentioned above YMMV

DID ZVM2 530 EK ZZZ 530

Stan, This is bad! The added resistance across the digital gauges( my guess is 2k ohms) is heating up the sending unit which could overtax the aquaeous fluids ability to absorb the additional BTU's which in turn could reduce the piston rings end gap clearance or heaven forbid rod end tolerances to a point that the whole reciprocating assembly could cease to reciprocate and man...that could be bad Send the gauges to me my friend and I'll experiment with a way to circumnvent this dilemna. Remember George Dickel is your friend

I've been riding my 2000 model for 2 years with a TiForce system and K&N air filter and no PC or any other fuel correction device. The tip of my exhaust is a dark caramel color and I get about 40 plus mpg average. So to me this setup leans out Honda's stock setup, runs like a purple raped ape and has no drawbacks so far.

Stan, What equipment are you welding with? TIG or MIG. Can you add a backer plate of Alum. and fill in the entire area? I've filed in some big ass holes in steel and alum. and then grind down . I know its not worth it, time or money wise. But I'm anal that way Man, I must have ass on the brain.

You do not have to drill the center caliper bores to delink. You can use a small jumper line with 2 banjo fitting to connect the bores. There is or was a kit Jaws?? that had this setup.

Thanks John, I just pulled my rear bulb, it is a dual filament type in a stock rear housing. The previous owner had shortened the stems so maybe he did a socket swap while there.

I was envious of Northman, so a couple years back, I went the Gaybow TiForce setup. I think the price was 1k shipped from Hard Racing .com Sounds good without being obnoxious and the bike pulls harder than with my old Yoshi full system. I am not running a Power Commander. You will like it

I have a 2000 model with a Givi setup and a TiForce system that I installed. It fits perfectly. I would remove the plastic and loosen everything. Remove the springs and then start aligning. The shop should have used the antiseeze compound, that came with the exhaust, on all the slip joints so you should be able to tweek it . Use a strap wrench to move the pipes till it fits right.

I was there and remember but the pic helps alot. First free weekend I'm gonna do the sync. Thanks for the replies.

Without me reading the manual...HOW. What do you do with the tank and airbox. I have a motion Pro mercury setup as well as the old carb wrench/ screwdriver that I used on other bikes. For carbs I used to just hang an aux. fuel tank. The FI bird has a short ass hose from the tank to the rail as well as the airbox.

I know on my older carb bikes a carb sync worked wonders for smoothness and helped with clutch rattle on startup. I have not heard much here about throttle body sync. Has anyone done it...seems like a pain to do on an injected bike. If you did the sync, did it help.

So what would be the effect of using a bigger MC ( like a 5/8" ) on the stock system :icon_think: , would that give more pressure or less, I am aware of the soft lever on my bike ( I can't imagine just using 2 fingers to brake ) and will look at stainless lines to see if that helps :icon_think: The effect would be less lever travel and a harder feel. You will have to exert more lever pressure to get the same braking effect. It would equate to changing to higher gearing with your sprockets.

Radio Shack used to sell a filter to wire into the power supply. I had engine electrical whine coming thru my radio in my Buick Skylark. The filter worked