Involute

I'll keep looking there. Right now theres nothing. I'm guessing based upon looking at the pretty pictures at Ron Ayers that a frame swap in this bike would only take a few days (if that) in the garage. One og the Stunt Monkeys I work with might have a connection locally that'll sell me a whole bike for $1000. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works out and the frame on that one is not trashed. I should be able to part it out and at least get my money back. I did find a place in TN that specializes in frame repair/straightening but based upon the damage on this one I think it may be beyond a safe repair for my fat ass.

Does it have to be titled? Try here. That's the most likely place I can think of to find a guy with a frame laying around. Oh yeah, and go fuck yourself. I guess it doesn't need to be titled but I'd feel better about it. And thanks, I'll go do some searching. And you can also fuck yourself.

I’m in desperate need of a straight, un-cracked, inexpensive (if there is such a thing) frame for an 00 or 01 929RR. Can you guys PLEASE keep an eye open for me in your travels. I bought a used one with a Rebuilt/Restored title knowing it needed steering bearings but I had no idea the frame was uber fucked up at the steering head. If I can’t find a frame for the right price I’ll need to part the SOB out or try and recover some of the $$ I spent buy selling it to someone that’s willing to spend a shit load of time an money fixing it. Anyway, please keep an eye open for me. Thanks.

Scam

Tomorrow's another day and you wont be able to find your band saw.

Nice digs Buddy! Glad things are working out for you.

After my first night in a room with Rich I had the same stuff growing on my anus.

About 4 beers away.

Scot you can borrow my tool anytime. Thanks man but for $16 I need one of my own. I ordered one yesterday along with a few other tools that'll come in handy.

What my Cabbage eating Hispanic friend said............................but....................put the old seal between the new one and the PVC pipe while driving it home. The old seal is softer than the pvc.

Leave it to Rich to come up with ways to pack more stuff in an ass.

Sonic Springs has an online calculator and great prices and customer service. Clik

As soon as I have a total cost and know how/where to send it I'll do so.

Dibs my ass. I'll take them. If they are not straight I'll owe you $150 worth of verbal abuse. Be warned, they'll be inspected to within .0001" accuracy. Anything over .0060" and the shit starts to fly. Paypal? Box'em up and give me a total with shipping to 84084 and I'll get you the money. Edit: Fuck! I just commited to buy and I don't know how many miles are on them.

I'd put the RR from a R1 on and be done with it. Never heard of anyone having issues with it. I would put the new R/R in. You've got it ordered already and everything is apart so why dick around. Even if the old one is good for now, how much damage has been done that will bite you in the ass 837 miles from home in the middle of nowhere? NEVER disagree with me!

Where did you hook your Datel into the system? Direct tap off of the battery, or somewhere else? The volt meter on my radar detector is linked off of a relay directly connected to the battery. However, there's about 3-5 items wired parallel off of that relay, so the voltage available will bounce around a bit, based on what else I have going on. I had a similar deal happen with the 97 XX. This is a bit of a story: I um... "came across" a 01 stator and a 01 Rec Rect. (Sorry bout that, Joshypoo) and decided I wanted to add the extra capacity stator to the 97, as it was going to be my winter bike, and I wanted to be able to run the heated grips and vest without having to worry about available power. There's a big difference in the 2 Reg/Rects, however. The 97/98 reg rect has basically one red and one green wire, and connects to ground. Best as I can tell, it works by converting the AC to DC, then bleeding off any extra voltage to ground. The later model ones have 2 red and 2 green wires, and a (as I remember, White/Blue) wire that's the "voltage sense" wire. It's connected, if you follow the wiring diagram, to basically main system voltage. The later RRs work by sensing the system voltage, and adjusting the amount of power put back into the system based on the voltage it receives. Since the 97 didn't have a wire in the harness linking to main system voltage, I found it quite the challenge to find a reliable wire that I could use that wouldn't cause over charging. For example, if I put it BEFORE the tail light bulb, it would run up to about 14.4 volts. If I put it AFTER the tail light bulb, it would put out 15.5 volts, because the tail light bulb consumed some of the voltage before the tap to the RR sensor. Thank God your girlfriend's hot. You're forgiven. I'd leave the old one in and pack the new one for long trips just in case. Where did you order your Stator from? Haven't yet. Most likely will just order a stock one from my local dealer. They give me a BIT of a discount.. but also usually get shit next day. Got a better idea? I can call Mike Barth at UMotors in the morning, I suppose. Nope, no ideas. I'm just curious. I'm sure mine will shit the bed sometime so I'm just asking.

My guess is that the shock was bought form them during the group buy. I believe the warranty is 5 years on materials and workmanship. And if you click on the fucking "Wilbers" logo on the left side of the main page you'll see that they rebuild them as well as other shocks. I'll say this..............when it's time for mine to be rebuilt this is the only place it'll go. "Gee thanks"? Your fucking welcome.

I'd leave the old one in and pack the new one for long trips just in case. Where did you order your Stator from?

Click this It may still be under warranty

Tail light $20 Center Stand $20 Clutch Cover $30 Stator cover $Make offer Undertail/Turnsignals,tray $75 14k stock shock $30 97-98 Rotors $65 2000XX Tank with pump SOLD Silver heli-bars SOLD Black Heli-Bars $125 Still valid? If so I''ll take the Rotors IF they are straight w/in .006" FIM.

When I'm selling the car for 50 bucks I don't. Butt for you, asscrack, I promise to wash my dick before you buy some of it nexxt time, OK? Holy shit! You're a crude little fucker when you want to be. I like that in a man. You once told me I never had to pay for it again though. WTF?

Can you please post some better pictures? You should be ashamed of yourself trying to sell something with those. When you trade in a car do you wash it first? :icon_nana:

Please! A full report with pics for the brain dead (like me) would be awesome. My Superhawk is in dire need of a sync also so that will be one of my main priorities over the next few weeks. Spring is almost here! :icon_clap:

I'm making one like this: Clicky The word is they are the most accurate as well as the least expensive.

What aftermarket bars do you have? I smell a trade