bajjer9

My battery was just fine this weekend at the bikeathon... but I ALWAYS promote switching to the R1 regulator... they NEVER fail. :icon_wall: heheh WRONG...i had one fail...of course it wasnt yammies fault...the stator fried it :icon_shifty:

does it do this consistently, randomly or rarely? there are not a whole lot of possiblities...the speedo, the sensor , the wiring between the two or lastly the voltage regulator but there would likely be other symptoms if that were it

This is good info! Thanks for the heads up!!

anyone have a reliable source for the bmw grips? I want to give em a whirl...so far the best ones i have found are spider grips but the colors fade in the sunlight

Yeah, I had those on my XX before upgrading to HID. They are great bulbs. Very noticable, but not near the HID. Just the same, phillips is a fraction of the cost. Or, you can replace the 1350lumen vision+ H7's with Danielsternlighting 2100lumen 65W H9 burner on an H7 base lights... When I went to HID, I couldnt' hardly tell when my bright was on or off, now it's a BIG difference... They're only ~$30 each at your door too... Mike Got a reliable source Mike?

I use rainwater and sunshine...

I agree with will, the stock seat is fine for short trips or clowning with friends but the corbin is better for distance in my opinion. I swapped seats with Mrvivid5 one day and confirmed what how i felt it would be. He likes the stock seat tho so YMMV of course. It does take some getting use to tho

Nah dont need to in my experience either

Damn bud sounds like the ole rectifier regulator went out on ya...they hate heat ya know. The low voltage causes most if not all of your symptoms. If you need your bike I have a new R1 regulator for a spare at the house or you can pick up one from honda. but once you get the R/R replaced check the stator before you start it. Check continuity from one yellow to the other until you have done all 3. If you have infinity on any leg its burned open. If all is well there then check from each yellow to ground. You should have NO continuity there. Let me know if I can help

I have LED signals and want to replace my flasher with an electronic one. Can someone tell me where the flasher is on the bike?

I guess its a case of your mileage may vary cuz I notice better stopping wet or dry with the ebc HH pads over oem AND galfer greens

As I was bored I took the liberty of doing a search for you. I am the guy he needed to PM..I like to consider myself fairly smart but this guy put me to shame and I aint ashamed to admit it!

In a conversation I had with Mac I learned that the factory kit is the way to go..Do a search of "jet" by "MaXX" and it should turn up...with the factory kit there is no drilling required so if you dont like it just put it like it was..Mac had some excellent advice regarding the pilot jets as well..good luck

80k on my 97 with no problems

Jaws told me once that he had a customer that was looking for one corbin G&L and finlly purchased a pyramid...he never called back or returned the cowl. Now John is good people and I take him at his word but at 2 bills roughly I aint gonna take that chance.

umm no idea but i am 230ish...that make a difference?

thats what i figured...thanks matey!

on top of the spring or below the spring?

Sure, it's an old cheapass-KLR-owner trick. Use the biggest OD pipe that will fit, schedule 80 or thicker, and make sure the ends are cut square and the two pretty damn close to the same length. what length should I start with? Half an inch?

Guys I have had hyperpro springs for quite a while and while they seem better than stock I just dont get that fuzzy feeling in regards to them. My brother was telling me about using PVC pipe to pre load the springs. I was thinking of trying this out. Anyone ever do something like this before? What size should I use? Anything to watch out for? Thanks

no the power transistors inside are mounted to the case before the epoxy is added so your theory isnt correct.the fins help disapate the head as th air flows over them. when it comes to heat disapation bigger heatsink will cool better

R1 regulator is much better than oem for early birds. I wouldnt change yours but if you do you can get one for little less than 50 bucks from university motor...do a search, the change over can be done quite easily once you are familiar with the procedure...no wire cutting is required Well from my experience, wouldn't it be best to perform a little preventative surgery on this? I have known R/R's to take other things with em when they go .. I have alot of riding planned this year, 3 1000 mile rallies, 3,000 miles just to get to them and back, plus a number of 1000-2000 mile trips... so do you think I should risk it? Well i suppose you could but again there is no telling when or if your reg is gonna go...the problem with the design is the lack of sufficient cooling. You can always carry one with you...i never had one take out anything but i had the stator take an rr out...i think they usually fail low from what i have read.my first one went for a year and a half (about 20k) when the stator took it out

R1 regulator is much better than oem for early birds. I wouldnt change yours but if you do you can get one for little less than 50 bucks from university motor...do a search, the change over can be done quite easily once you are familiar with the procedure...no wire cutting is required

I'm not sure which year your bird is, but from my experience 87 octane gas on a '97 bird caused a pinging with load. 91 octane, no problems. hm must be kalifornia gas cuz 87 is all i ever run...and even the cheap stuff doesnt ping at all..ever...mine is 97 by the way...oh and mine works in the rain..

I found the best way is to tighten in small increments. If you go to tight you need to loosen both sides then resume tightening...as long as there is some tension it wont move the opposite way...then once your there tighten the axle nut...never had any issues with that procedure using the markings on the adjuster myself