rockmeupto125

"freezing my ass off" Oh, its below 70F? It was 6 degrees here this morning, supposed to be 0 tomorrow morning. Guess what I'm doing? That's right, I'm outside pulling batteries out of motorcycles, trucks, lawnmowers, tractors, etc like they were catalytic converters. I had another request for mirror covers for a Honda CBR1100XX (remember those?) and it occurred to me that they might could be able to be 3d printed.

I'm sure this information is someplace else, but search is not a strong point with this software. I think Swampnut is our premier 3d printer, but I may be wrong as I can't say I've followed threads on the topic as much as I should. So, does anyone have 3d scanning capability?

I've used them on water pumps...on cars. Yes, cars used to have v-belts....back in the day

That's an item that never goes on sale. Now I know what to buy when there's an X% off anything.

It was stopping at the same place from both sides. , at the end of the first (or last) 90. I didn't put a line in when I laid it because 12 or 14 gauge should go through 2 inch pipe like throwing a hotdog down a hallway. There's only three 90's in the line and toe of them are connected. It's 2 inch pipe, so there's no concern about conduit fill, even with romex. But it's underground, which is what is supposed to cause the zombie apocalypse. When I get to actually running the real wiring, it will be 2-2-4-6 Al MHF, so I wanted a big enough conduit so it wouldn't take hydraulics to pull the wire through. Next is running the air tubing through 1 inch conduit. That's getting lubed, and the leading edge chamfered.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA FML 😡 All the conduit is in and I'm just gonna quick run some 14-2 romex out to the garage so I have lights. Yes, I know you can't run romex underground because you'll die and the town will burn and the babies will die and the earth will pivot off axis and we'll die and the the earth will plunge into the sun and create a supernova and cause other alien civilizations in other galaxies to die and I don't care. I previously had a heavy 12 gauge outdoor extension cord running out the door of the front garage and out to the new garage and nobody died. Anyway, figured I would easily be able to push that romex through a 2 inch pipe for 20 feet with three 90 degree sweeps. Hell no. Tried from one side, won't go. The other side, won't go. Got out my fish tape. Won't go. Other side, won't go. Got out my video snake...can't see sh*t. Blockage appears to be between the 90 that's imbedded in concrete, and the 90 the dumps down into the trench. I had bought 2 test caps, little milky plastic plates that fit into the end of the pipes that I used to keep mud and dirt out of the pipes while I was test fitting them. 2 were accounted for. They are thin and fit together, could I possibly have left Lowe's with 3 accidentally and now one is inside? ARRRRRGHH. So I cut the pipe, a couple inches off the concrete, in the first part of the 90 degree. That should put me close enough to smash open the thin test cap. I have a spare 2 inch coupling, so if I cut it there before the bend really starts, I should be able to rejoin the pipe. Now the pipe is cut, I can see what's going on (a little), and pass the fish tape through from the short end without any difficulty whatsoever. ???? I pass the fish tape through from the long side without any difficulty whatsoever. ?!?!?!?!?! Okay, so whatever the hell happened, I apparently wasn't persistent enough with attempting to pass the fish tape. Lets dig out around and glue the coupling in, and call it a day. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA FML 😡 Coupling won't fit. 90 degree pipe has greater OD than straight pipe. Can I sand it down? 20 minutes later says nope. Okay, I'll get a mill bit and round out the coupling with a drill (sold the lathe, don'tcha know). Well, that's not happening either. An hour later and I've now forced a 2" fernco coupling onto a 2 1/8" pipe and my brand new conduit already has a repair in it that is most probably not up to code. I run the fish tape, pull the wire, and today will at least have the start to getting a light in the new garage. <sigh>

No, 😀 edges off the shovel because it was a wee bit wide.

I got this And thought I'd need to take the edges off it with this: To do this: Two inch conduit should be easy enough to pull through. I picked up some one inch conduit as well and ordered hose/fittings to run through it for an air line until I get a compressor on the garage. And now it's snowing.

There's some good information in the Important/Useful Threads section of Mechanical\FAQ. As far as your injected engine, you would have to change the cylinder head to a carbed version. You cannot physically put a set of XX carbs on an injected engine, the intakes do not line up. Internals such as the valves and associated hardware are the same.

Yeah, but it's like horsepower/top speed, an indication of how far away we are from a failure point.

The gun is different because it has moving parts. The pilot arc is started in the gun tip and transfers to the work surface. Why? There's three types of starting methods for a plasma field in our application. Scratch, just like any other type of stick welding, scores the surfaces and requires a superior ground, meaning all the surfaces have to be clean, and there's a lot of technique involved. High Frequency, where a quickly oscillating alternating current starts the arc at around 15k volts like a spark plug, does not need a strong ground, and will start through minimally conductive dirty/painted surfaces. Blowback starts the pilot arc with DC current in the gun tip in a small controlled environment (think "prechamber") and once the field is created it automatically opens the tip and starts that arc flow to the work surface. Because the "prechamber" environment is small and controlled, the arc can be started by a smaller DC current rather than a large AC current, which gives 3 positives. No high frequency signal to mess with local equipment or require shielding (such as CNC use), still will conduct in poor environments as the arc is already formed, and requires less power, meaning lighter equipment and less current needs. And increases the cost/complexity of the gun. I don't know any of this, I just read it. Now it occurs to me that I didn't check the duty cycle of that unit. Wow. 100% at 30A on 220V.

Thanks for everyone's input. Superhawk's of the cheapest box on Amazon was pretty interesting. Even though it was an older box with an analog gauge, I suspect the internals are the same, the case, color, logo, and seller were identical. Created quite an argument to go cheaper. IcePick and Swampie both mentioned the gun differences and similarities, which made me start thinking. Then I did a search this morning essentially looking at the torch differences and found another interesting deal on Amazon for the Yeswelder CUT-55DS PRO for $270 with an $80 coupon. Non-HF and blowback start with an IPT40 gun. Consumables cost more, and the Yes people say No to tossing you a few extra tips and such, but I'm not going to blow through that many of them, I don't think. I'll order more when I know a little bit more about what to order for spares and gouging.

El cheapo uses the same gun? On my phone, can't read then little fontses

Funny, but when I made the Yes machine into a bundle with extra consumables, the coupon was no longer available. So its cheaper as a separate purchase. I'm sure consumables are readily available for the cheapo unit, but I feel that the Yes consumables might be more consistently available.

Yeowch. I wanted a toy, that's getting serious. I started thinking about this speed, $109 https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Display-Accessories/dp/B07GB3T4KG?crid=331YE24QQ69E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NkzNCAqEIv5sDlmT4J-chh4UlbaZmj2IkRReq37aO3FZOmJ1PDMwrlmSnkQ_mPodZ-2rLRuYFGHRLlMY9wAenWuqNxguVGWE2Cn0CtkSTQ5h_jmFgWJXevotguDRSniuGqevPf92rbm4ygoOAEpnO4fgfIi_65hkSB3pz5svuAwF7Itt1ryLCuy4f9fscFHhSn6zUi3yn32mivmUcaxT1uzeJ1TMnffFj3_8eEbvXuD44Okvv_WBgSUZQicM8FOntz1U8mv1ZQ4wvgwDsHB3oFlwXPu9UM9CBQw_47lhLYc.84tQ3dYCUatEpRjTMwM1LHFXgXzpRRijGf39m-lQHlA&dib_tag=se&keywords=plasma+cutter&qid=1731464462&sprefix=plasma+cutter%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-4 Then I saw this Yes brand, as they seem to enjoy a good rep, for only $169 https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-CUT-50DS-Digital-Display-Inverter/dp/B0DBHKBBH3?crid=331YE24QQ69E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NkzNCAqEIv5sDlmT4J-chh4UlbaZmj2IkRReq37aO3FZOmJ1PDMwrlmSnkQ_mPodZ-2rLRuYFGHRLlMY9wAenWuqNxguVGWE2Cn0CtkSTQ5h_jmFgWJXevotguDRSniuGqevPf92rbm4ygoOAEpnO4fgfIi_65hkSB3pz5svuAwF7Itt1ryLCuy4f9fscFHhSn6zUi3yn32mivmUcaxT1uzeJ1TMnffFj3_8eEbvXuD44Okvv_WBgSUZQicM8FOntz1U8mv1ZQ4wvgwDsHB3oFlwXPu9UM9CBQw_47lhLYc.84tQ3dYCUatEpRjTMwM1LHFXgXzpRRijGf39m-lQHlA&dib_tag=se&keywords=plasma+cutter&qid=1731464462&sprefix=plasma+cutter%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-8 AND THEN I saw the bigger Yes brand with non-HF and blowback for errr...$279 https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-CUT-65DS-Frequency-Non-Touch-Inverter/dp/B09L3Y3ZLF?crid=331YE24QQ69E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NkzNCAqEIv5sDlmT4J-chh4UlbaZmj2IkRReq37aO3FZOmJ1PDMwrlmSnkQ_mPodZ-2rLRuYFGHRLlMY9wAenWuqNxguVGWE2Cn0CtkSTQ5h_jmFgWJXevotguDRSniuGqevPf92rbm4ygoOAEpnO4fgfIi_65hkSB3pz5svuAwF7Itt1ryLCuy4f9fscFHhSn6zUi3yn32mivmUcaxT1uzeJ1TMnffFj3_8eEbvXuD44Okvv_WBgSUZQicM8FOntz1U8mv1ZQ4wvgwDsHB3oFlwXPu9UM9CBQw_47lhLYc.84tQ3dYCUatEpRjTMwM1LHFXgXzpRRijGf39m-lQHlA&dib_tag=se&keywords=plasma+cutter&qid=1731464462&sprefix=plasma+cutter%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-6

Icepick, send me a link to a what you got, plz

$110 for the cheapest toy. Is it worth the $80 jump to a non HF, non-touch device? Nope, I'm confusing non-touch with non-HF. Whats the difference? More googling.

Hey all, I'm feeling a bug for a plasma cutter. Christmas is coming. Not as a tool, but a toy. I just want to cut some metal and giggle a little bit. I see new ones as cheap as $100 on ebay but they sound sketchy. Any recommends for something cheap and easy that works for 1/4 inch or less? Just to play with, not start a business. Thanks! Edit: I should add that while a multi-tool is a great idea, I already have two MIG, a stick, and generators.

Perhaps I misspoke, or overly assumed. I thought you had referenced this bike as a fuel injected model. My reference might have more properly been "just about any ECU FROM A FUEL INJECTED CBR1100XX." And although the acronyms are used interchangeably, an ECU (electronic control UNIT) is most commonly a simple switching unit that does not make decisions other than ON/OFF because the inputs are there/not there. An ECM (electronic control MODULE) makes decisions and changes signals incrementally and the inputs are varying as well. So I should have more correctly referenced an ECM. The 16 pin plugs on a carb CBR1100XX and a fuel injected CBR1100XX are quite different and no way interchangeable. The two plugs on the fuel injected ECM are for input and output. My point was that because the essential components of the fuel injection and ignition system are the same for all fuel injected CBR1100XX models, most any CBR1100XX ECM could be made to work as long as the anti-theft was bypassed. Be prepared to do a fair amount of work with an electrical meter to do that. Others have done it, I have not, have never felt the need.

If you're selling, I'm interested.

If it's a track/offroad bike with minimal electronics, you should be able to use just about any ECU as long as the HISS is disconnected.

I put a note in your build thread (Garage).

So your new build is the track/off road frame rescue you spoke of in the for sale section? If it's a track bike (which is crazy, I've tried it), There are plenty of opportunities for you to lose some weight off that bike. And did you pull the balance shafts? As a track bike, you surely don't need a HISS ecu, that can be deleted. There's a few ECU's on ebay for <300 USD, but be careful of buying an ECU from a restricted area. Very hard to tell which areas had restricted ECU's. I know Japan did, and I've heard that South Africa did. Other areas relied on mechanical restriction rather than electrical management.

No reader aids.