rockmeupto125

An outfit in california used to make them. I think they did something with aircraft windshield as well. No longer in business, or at least not in the bike screen business. As i recall, they made them in clear and tinted, 2/4/6 inch rise. I had one once upon a time.

But that's not you in the picture.

I did, I did. That was a long time ago. I think it was red. What's the mileage, add-ons, and let me know what you're asking. I might need more adventure this summer.

Waiting to hear more about this, Cal....

I don't think your XX is under undue stress. Turbo? High speed runs? Commercial towing? Stock aluminum works for most folks just fine. You can get 5 of those for one custom copper and brass masterpiece that will still go to shit once road crap and chemicals get on it. I'm sure it's a fine piece of kit, but you don't need a Rolls Royce to get to Walmart. (I was going to say you don't need to have a fancy wedding and reception just to get a blow job, but this is a publicly viewable forum....)

Aren't they 80-100 bucks on ebay?

Oh hell yes.

919 porsche?

??

Grab one off ebay. They fit a variety of bikes with the same brand braking systems. I know several yamaha models use the same switch. So if you see it listed for lots of different bikes, it's real, not just a universal switch you need to adapt.

Blue was available pretty much everywhere except the US.

I was going to say just buy a different one until i saw that picture... The very first thing i would do is to take a look in the tank.

yep

Things like that are best fastened in place with sheet metal screws into the gas tank.

Got up for work last night, had the truck heater on. Went out in the cold and started right up. Came back in to finish getting ready, I heard the truck shut off. Fuck. Ran the codes quick before I left with the old Chevy (no heat, no defrost, 12 degrees out). P200E cleared. Went out this morning after work (8 degrees) and plugged in the computer. Didn't start it. EGT13 (the one with the resister) reads 600. No, 900. No, 334. No, 517. No, 936. Fuck this. I took an old sensor, safety wired it to the exhaust pipe, and plugged it in. Ran like a champ. We'll see how it goes.

forscan saves the file. I just haven't figured out how to get the file to play back unless I'm connected to the truck.

Are you sure a 2000 won't work?

And expecting 18 inches of snow next week. Can't wait much longer, will have to dig into it no matter what.

Update 2/12/21 Got the truck inspected last month, in and out, 40 minutes and $40, no sweat. Sometime shortly after I had the window open, which is unusual in this weather and heard a moaning sound while turning. No play in the front end, and the loudest place I could here the sound was the left lower ball joint. Of course they're not greasable, so I drilled a hole, tapped it, and put in a grease fitting. Can you imagine that in this entire town, nobody had a taper thread grease fitting? Hell, I know I do, I just can't find them in this disaster of a garage. Once I greased the joint after the grease gun sat inside for the night, I could see where the hole in the boot is, and gave up, it needs a ball joint. Easy job unless it is zero degrees out, so off to the garage it goes. Now I've been graphing the EGT sensors, and the other day we were out testing (after charging the batteries that were at 8 volts, but that's another story) and EGT13 which is the one I have bypassed with a resister was definitely changing reading with any kind of good sized bump in the road, so maybe I need to redo that connection. The reading is flat unless its bounced, so there should be no problem with the truck just sitting. Dropped the truck off at the garage this morning. Heater on all night, started great, no issues. They just called to say the truck shut off and they can't get it started, what's the trick. I told them reset the DTC and wait and hour, it should start. Fuck me.

A towel still flows air. And with a direct drive fan it may not be so dicey but there's still a chance of it getting free and making a royal mess of something. Trucks usually have snap on vinyl covers. Otherwise use cardboard. It doesn't flow air, is bendable enough to get it past supports and braces, but stiff enough not to get wrapped around the wrong things if it gets loose. The block doesn't just shield the radiator, it decreases air flow around the engine as well. Coolant just going through the bypass stays in the radiator long enough to get down to ambient, so even a liter a minute cooled down to -10 puts a big hit on the temperature. Engine exhausts heat from all surfaces as well, so fresh frigid air rushing past the engine with 100 degrees more delta than normal also contributes.

Cold in Pittsburgh, ain't it? They gotta be nice and warm to flex enough to come off.

Yep, key in run. It didn't work, I didn't pursue it. Yes, it's auto. I installed the resistor in place of the sensor so it showed a value, and wouldn't throw a code. You can play with it at racer.

Yeah, I've read the description and explanation of the code. Sensors on the truck are PTC, so signal voltage increases with temperature. My assumption is that the only things that will cause an overtemp signal would be a faulty sensor, a faulty ECM, or an actual overtemp situation. A break in the wire or contact to ground due to harness damage should lose signal, creating a non-working or absent sensor and generating a code for that specific sensor. I have no DPF, but the cat is retained. EGT13 (bank 1, number 3) sensor is crossed with a resistor that allows a low level signal so the ECM doesn't get mad. Not sure if it throws a code or creates a no start, I've never tried to run it without. It's locked down on me several times, only in town never on the highway. Sometimes within a minute or two of startup. And its never given an indication of overheat....oil and coolant temps are good, and I rarely push the exhaust temperature past 1200 even pulling hard (that's the first downstream sensor from the turbo). I have tried the brown wire bypass, didn't work. No other codes. Spreadsheet data for the truck would tell me what the different number codes, like 726-40-01 is TPMS for 2017 and up. There's not much information on bastard child '08-'10 trucks. Cancel culture?

There's a fair amount of discussion about it from forums. Not fixing it, just bitching about it. There are codes for the individual sensors, I don't know why the non-specific P200E code generates, but it may be that there's a signal from all the sensors, but the difference between two of them is significant to throw the code. I can't find any documentation to that effect. When it codes, the info panel reads "stop engine safely" or something like that. Supposedly, the truck should continue running until it slows to 5mph, then the engine will stop. In reality, it just shuts off unless you have your foot in it, and dies as soon as I let off. Or it will just shut off when idling, which has also happened to me. Once it shuts off, its a no-crank for 60 minutes via a timer in the ECM. Really. So if the thing shuts off on the railroad tracks, you're fucked. I've read that the lockout is in the starter circuit, so if you can cross the starter, it will start if the code is cleared. I've read of a couple easy ways to do that, but haven't been able to duplicate it with my truck. There's 4 exhaust temp sensors. One downstream from the turbo (EGT-R), and three of the same sensor before the cat, after the cat, and after the DPF (EGT-11, 12, and 13). I don't have a DPF, so the EGT-13 is the socket with a resistor stuck in it. I wonder about doing the same thing with 1 and 2 to get the damn thing to work.

posting from my computer rather than my phone, so perhaps the read will be more understandable and all. P200E is the code, not P0200. Sorry to send you chasing in the wrong direction, Oscar. P200E is a general code for EGT out of range or sensor issue. I've never gotten a code for a specific sensor. That would be great. I hooked it all up real time yesterday and graphed out, ran like a top so I know no more than I did before. Any real information on this particular year/engine is nearly nonexistent. At this point I'd consider just crossing them all with the same resister if it would run like that, but I don't know enough about the system to be sure, and I don't want to screw anything up. It's not like it can ever go back to stock again. I think if I can ever pinpoint it, I'll have to leave the computer hooked up ad nauseam to catch it when it happens. I really just don't want to be stuck by the side of the road as a brick pulling a trailer. Or better yet in lane 2 of five 10 miles from downtown Atlanta.