RU660R

I did a search and didn't find anything. So here we go. I have been in the process of rebuilding my Bird after a unfornate downing nine months ago. Long story short I did a lot of powder coating. After I put her back together she ran great. The bike has been back in running condition for a few months now and I would start it ever few weeks. I have had it on a battery tender since I have been starting it. I finally got my fairings and other mics. parts in this past week. I went to move the Bird and it seemed to be running strange. I get it moved but it was hell to keep her running. At idle its seems to missing and dies sometimes. It sounds like a v-twin. Really strange exhaust note. Once the rpms get up it seems normal besides the black smoke it puff out every once in a while. So my first thoughts where one of poilet jets are clouged, spark plugs, or coils. Spark Plugs are brand new. Just ran on the bike stand in the garage. Maybe two hours of run time. Today I cleaned the carbs and found one poilet jet to be clouged. A brust of air cleaned it out. The rest of the carbs looked clean. So I checked spark. Spark is there but seems weak. It seems my lawnmower has more spark than the bird. Battery died during this process so I have jumped to one of our cars. Not sure if that matters. I'm out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appericated. Weather getting to nice not to be ridding and this is the only thing holding me back. Sorry for the novel.

Yes. They sand blasted it and covered it with tape.

Here's some pics. Edit: As you where posting I was uploading.

powder or paint? Sorry, powder. He might of cut me deal though. I also had lower fork tubes, frame, swing arm, and sub-frame done. .

I had my done a few months ago. Had them done in satin black for 75 a wheel.

Sorry I was out of town. Let me know what a fair price would be plus shipping.

I have one but it needs paint. Pervious owner painted it black with metal flake.

Lower Right Side-100.00 Rear Cowl-100.00 Front Fender-75.00 Half Cowl-Part that goes behind the front wheel-50.00 Alpinestar Air-Flo Jacket XL-100.00 All these are scratched and need paint. No cracks and all the mounting points are there. The front fender has some road rash up front. The rear cowl has four small holes drilled in it for the Motek Undertail kit. They where all paint black with a metal flake. The previous owner did this. I wasn't a fan. Jacket I wore a few times and decided it was to small. Thought I would give ya'll a chance at this stuff before I ebay it. Don't have pics right now. I'll see if I can get some up tonight. All prices are obo plus shipping. Link to Jacket http://www.alpinestars.com/AirFlo_Jacket/p...2/p/330253.html

Pics changed my mine. Going to spend the extra cash and fix the OE mirriors. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Anyone else?

Wondering if anyone has used these. Anyone have pics of them mounted? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I torn down the bike a few months ago and now I having a problem remembering where they go. There is a line that plug up to the block under the left side carb(I guessing carb 1)? Also the vacuum line from the fuel petcock(sp?). I have looked all over the service manual and nothing. Also I have removed the PAIR system and pluged the lines.

I tried that and the welds started to pull away from the frame. I found the lower fairing stay. For $10.00 for a set I'm going to try.

I crashed my 98 bird a couple months back and the process of rebuilding. The frame is fine besides the top mount for the lower fairing is bent and the bolt broke off inside. On the later birds doesn't that part bolt on instead of being welded? If this is true does anyone have one or know where I can get one. I have searched some the OEM parts sites but haven't came across anything. Also has anyone repaired this before and how did you do it? I'm looking for options. I do have access to a TIG and MIG but my welding skills on aluminum are not the best. I plan on powder coating the frame and other parts so not worried about the the finish. Thanks

How much for the upper fairing? You can pm me.

I have a plastic welder but no pieces to weld to it. I'm fabrication savvy but I rather have the correct part for this. Especially when used cluster on Ebay are cheap. There not any on Ebay right now so I figure I would try here.

I ordered the 55W kit. DDM says they should not pull much more current than the regular bulb. So I'm going to replace the switch. If that fails than the relay will be used. Headlights probably should of been wired through a relay in the first place.

I looked on Babbits and they want $250.00 just for the white backing part. The gauges look and function fine just need the mounting part. Hoping i could fine someone with a broken gauge cluster that would sell it cheap or just let me buy the back part.

What was the problem that you found? Which wire is overheating? I'm not quite clear on that... BTW, I have the same kit and it has been flawless since installation. The problem was the wire on the starter button that goes to the headlights. When I first took the housing apart it looked like the solder just broke. So I resodered it. Before I put the housing back together I turned on the lights to make sure it was working and after about 30 seconds the wire popped back off. So I resoldered it again. This time when I turned on the lights I held my finger on the wire and I had to take my finger off because the wire was getting so hot. Then the solder let lose again. Is this clearer? Unfortunately, yes... There were no problems with the original lights right? Problem started when you installed the HID's, right? I'd try changing the low beam lead to the other ballast and see what happens. The solder is melting because of the combination of current flowing through the switch and the switch resistance. One or the other is too high. It is possible that the HID is consuming too much current, try using the original halogen bulb to check this possibility. If it still gets hot with the old light bulb, then the issue is simply a poor contact inside the switch, not at all uncommon. Most bike switches I've seen can be taken apart, and the contacts gently sanded until they are shiny clean copper again. As you where typing the response I was outside cleaning the switch. I figured since the only problem with heat was across the switch it had to be a poor or dirty connection. Still gets a little warm but not nearly as hot as before. I will be a little more confident in the solution since someone else had the same thoughts. Riding home last night without any headlight really sucked. I will have a back up plan if this happens again, at least till my new switch get here. Thanks

What was the problem that you found? Which wire is overheating? I'm not quite clear on that... BTW, I have the same kit and it has been flawless since installation. The problem was the wire on the starter button that goes to the headlights. When I first took the housing apart it looked like the solder just broke. So I resodered it. Before I put the housing back together I turned on the lights to make sure it was working and after about 30 seconds the wire popped back off. So I resoldered it again. This time when I turned on the lights I held my finger on the wire and I had to take my finger off because the wire was getting so hot. Then the solder let lose again. Is this clearer?

Yeaterday I installed the DDM Tuning Hid Kit Hi and Lo on my Bird. Worked great but last night headlight stop working on the way home. So this morning I found the problem with the help of this site. (Thanks by the way.) I resolder the wire back and they worked. But now the problem is that wire gets so hot that it brings the solder back to its melting point which breaks the connection. It gets so hot I can't hold my finger on it. Has anybody had this problem and what is the fix? Oh I wired the power to the hid kits to the stock headlight wires. Is this wrong? Thanks In Advance

Went to install my DDM Tuning Hid Kit and the previous owner had zip tied in the guage cluster due to all the mounting points broken off. Also the fairing stay is bent where it meets the front of the frame. So a I was all happy then I found this. So I was wondering if anybody had a gauge cluster(working or not) for a 98 Bird laying around that they would not mind parting with. I think I'm going to order the stay new unless anyone has one that is not bent(which I doubt anyone would). Just let me know what you want for it shipped to 77354. The address is a business address. Some times shipping is cheaper that way. Thanks.

I was looking at my tires today and they are worn but with good tread. But when I picked up the bike a couple weeks ago I forgot to ask the previous owner how old they where. So I will be replacing them soon. My question is do any of yall put wider tires on the rear, front, or both. If so what is the advantage. Thanks in advance.