mickcbr1100

I'm not into electronics so I don't know if this is any good or what but its a crash helmet with integrated bluetooth. Quoted the blurb from one of the UK's magazines Haven't got a clue what colour schemes it comes in the one pictured looks shit.

The rear spindle is hollow, if you get a length of 8mm steel threaded studding you can put in through the spindle and bolt up the spools to it either side. Wouldn't take a minute to put on then take off when you've finished.

Getting some bad clunking up and down the gears, sometimes it was OK sometimes it wasnt, odd occassions had to try 2-3 times to get a gear . The rod was really crudded up when I took it out must have been catching somehow, not had trouble since- 15 months or so. Told someone else on here who had the same problem recently and not seen another post since he said his rod was a mess and he had cleaned it up so it would seem it does have some effect. Its a quick easy job and worth checking out.

That was me, if you want to check the rod just take the clutch slave cylinder off, its right behind it , can be pulled straight out and cleaned up. BTW it has two different lengths of hardening on the ends just make sure you remember which end is which when you replace it.

You're welcome, ever thought about the stuff you can get to put a dark tint on turn signals that might work on a stock screen. Seen a few posts on here in the past few months about tinting the signals if you want to try a search.

Its a darkish smoke but you can see through it if you're down that low but depends where you are as it can get distorted by the bubble, it don't really matter to me as I'm to old and stiff to bother getting down there :cry: .Have you thought about the later 01 onwards standard screen thats a bit higher than the older ones?. The MRA just looks like its higher than others but isnt really as the bubble starts higher up from the front than others and seems to blend in and suit the flow of the bike better than most of them.

Pics added above :cool:

I wouldnt be that cruel, I misread your post Joe :???: Not seen anyone disatisfied with an MRA over here every time someone asks about screens it gets the most votes, just got one myself after trying a couple of others over the past year (Powerbronze and an unknown one). Its looks and fits better and does the job. Not mine but its the same one.

Correct Joe, its about the only thing IXXRA and BIRD agree on that the MRA double bubble is the best aftermarket screen for looks, fit and ergos.

Wouldn't have thought the CB750 chain was anywhere near the XX's and would fit the sprocket properly :???: .

If you hold the clutch in for a couple of seconds before going into first it just snicks in, no good if you're in a hurry but it works for every other time.

I've done the clutch in 15 minutes, just drain the reservoir with a syringe, top up with new then pump it through until clean comes out the bleed nipple. You're leaving some of the old stuff in the system by draining it as you never get it all out and then are just mixing it with the new, when you feed new in from the reservoir it pushes all the old out in front of it.

http://www.motorbike-seats.co.uk/header.html "Melboy"

I dropped one and heard it rattle a fair way down so knew it wasnt in the top fairing, spent an hour taking the lowers off both sides and searching everywhere round the engine.....then found it resting on top of the front fender in the rigid brakelines :oops:

Might well want to look at this http://www.ixxra.com/exhaust/exhaust.htm Series of pictures and info of a bird can autopsy, shows what you're up against if you want to try to modify it. Dont think I'd bother.

Thanks :cheers:

Remember a lot of the old Brit bike owners swearing by filling the bars with molten lead but there was so much vibration in them to start with it didnt do a lot. If absorbtion works better would expanding builders type foam be any good at all or needs a bit of mass behind it as well? :???:

They're famous for it, at least over here they are, apparently the caliper thread is not too good, a bit sloppy. Sometimes its just a bit of fluid that seeps up the hole on the nipple and eventually dries out other times it means new nipples to seal it properly but that isnt guaranteed.

Try this http://www.bike-parts.fr/pieces2.php?num_m...merciale=SUPER#

Question- Answer- Yes it is, useful in the colder weather but a bitch in summer :???:

:shock: shit Dave, that means I got MI5 and the FBI on me, I sent J..sorry this man some frame plugs, probably use them for plugging gun barrels in Iraq :roll:

Hairbear dont know what year your bike is but it was a 1999-2000 problem. Where the harness goes down and round the starter solenoid on the left side (above the footpeg)there is a connector inside the harness at its lowest point, any water getting in gathers there and can rot the terminals. Several UK bikes had it and had to have the harness changed, its too tight how it wraps round to move it to another position. Symptoms were similar to yours cutting out and FI light coming on for no reason. May not be your problem but you never know.

should be nothing on the brakes and clutch change, the only thing on the forks maybe the O rings on the fork top nut, not worth bothering yourself unless its not a Honda dealer you are using and you want to make sure you have the right ones-just 2 one for each.(they do recommend you renew them each time you take the nuts off)

Theres enough slack in the fuel lines to just up end the tank and put it on the frame rails without disconnecting them, or is it different on carbed 'birds?

Lot less room to manouevre if you do it from the front much easier to follow Warchilds method. The air ducts slip back into the airbox easy if you give them a smear of silicone oil or grease. Plus you're above it looking down at what you're doing not wrenching your neck trying to do it from underneath mainly by feel. Had a friend who did his the hard way but only the one time once he saw how much easier the warchild method is.