superhawk996

Dropped often, now there's something you don't see in most ads. Cool bike, I'm glad it's so far away otherwise I'd be tempted.

They seem to be hit & miss, but mostly good from what I know. One option is warranty service if it's still covered. The other, if the rounds are sticking on the way into the chamber, is knocking the small 'lip' off where the ramp meets the chamber, and a ramp polishing for good measure. Polishing alone might cure it. I hate shooting guns I've never gotten to play with, but I guess we can take it shooting and play with it to hopefully figure out the issue.

Holy shit, they have gone crazy! Is Terry writing their gun laws?

Acetone, sand blaster, yellow paint....whatever it takes. And wow, the crazy that brought this thread back to life is impressive.

You should send that to Dave for a cleaning.

Sweet, that means my tube fed .22s just went up in value. I'm assuming a detachable magazine is one of the features defining an AW. Seems like WA is competing with CA to see who can push through the most restrictive gun laws. On the upside, several WA Sheriffs and/or chiefs (probably only in the rural areas) have gone on record saying they won't enforce ridiculous gun laws. They were asked "aren't you sworn to enforce the laws"? Yes, and I swore to uphold the constitution of the US which is a higher law. On the same day this thing becomes a death machine in WA, we start having background checks for ammo. One of the conditions for passing the instant background check is that you own a gun so I'll no longer be qualified.

Of all the guns I've sold this one bugged me the most. They all bug me to some degree because I want at least one of every gun ever made, but $ & space don't allow that. Anyway, I recently realized that I don't have a .22 with the flexibility of this model and very few pretty guns so I needed this back. Luckily the purchaser is a friend so after a few years gone I got it back today. According to the interwebs it's a 1994. From memory, when I got it it appeared to have little or no use and I sold it right after I got it without ever getting to shoot it. My friend said he only put around 25 rounds through it. I opened it up and it didn't show much for wear or grime, but I did a full cleaning including opening the mag, which also looked pretty clean inside. As always, some Hornady spray made everything smoother than it was. The receiver & barrel band appear to have some kind of clear coat type stuff on them with some scratches & chipping, but I'm not gonna mess with them 'till I know what it is and if it can be easily cleaned up. I'll probably take it to Carlos' this week for the test run, and pick up a real magazine for it while I'm in America. A Ruger BX25 unless someone has a better suggestion. Anyone got any specific ammo advice for accuracy with these or is it the typical "every gun likes a different load"?

On my '97 the rear brake master is connected near the center of the caliper so I assume it's only using the center piston. My '01 is de-linked and the master has two hoses to the caliper to use all pistons, no clue how it was originally. I guess I could try to find it in the manual, but I'm feeling lazy.

Makes me wanna do a hard front brake test on my 'new' '97 to see what it does. I haven't had much chance to ride it so I haven't really put it through the paces.

I know you're a fan of the LBS, if that detracts from desire no prob. We're still gonna come out and shoot your gun(s) so you ain't getting out of that. And I'll probably bring a couple.

I've never felt that there was too much travel, but each has their own pickiness level. It's not awesome like my 999s was, but not bad feeling at all. I got curious so I compared it to my stock '97 and there's a bit less travel and more firmness once the pressure starts rising, guessing because it has braided hoses. It was already de-linked when I got it. It's possible that whoever did it didn't drill the calipers so not having those extra pistons to actuate is reducing travel compared to one that is.

My '01 is de-linked, has the stock 1/2" master, and works just fine so it's not a requirement to change it.

...if you're not smart enough to use the rear brake.

Any tire that fits an XX fits an XX, and using that as the decision maker is about as smart as installing any plug that fits it. If my Bird, or any other engine I own, fouled the plugs before they wore out I'd be digging in to find/fix the cause since that shouldn't happen. Iridiums made my bike start & run better and many others report the same.

I looked at a couple photos of used ones on ebay and one appeared to have similar marks, but none of the photos were very clear. Are they wear marks or just clean spots? Hard to tell for sure.

I would be, getting rid of it on my latest BB is on the to-do list.

Possibilities: secondary master pushrod length is wrong or the linkage is binding so that it can't release the pressure. We pretty much know the problem isn't in the caliper since releasing the pressure at the caliper bleeder cures it. Pumping the secondary and loosening the banjo/bleeder at different points should narrow down exactly which component is causing the bind. I've heard of hoses on cars getting fucked up internally to where they'll cause a drag. Throwing that out there because 'nobody' would expect it to be possible, but apparently it does happen. De-linking isn't crazy money, depending on what you think is expensive, but I don't know the price.

HIgh temp synthetic blinker fluid of course.

By top I assume you mean the terminal on the plug where the boot slides on; if it's the right plug it should be threaded, but some plugs have a permanent large top post. If the top is hollow in the center they're screw-on, it the tip is solid they're not screw-on. Which do you you have, and if hollow, did you try pliers? And what brand & number plugs are they?

And make sure you use synthetic fluid, that organic stuff can't handle the power of the BB.

Flushing with ABS isn't a big deal, bleeding air out of an ABS system appears to be hit & miss without the tool/computer needed to actuate the ABS system. If one actuated the ABS while flushing it's probably better than flushing without actuation, some old fluid will stay in the accumulator/valves without actuating and actuating *should* purge that. When I work on any brake system I don't let air into the ABS module if possible. If I have to expose the ABS module to air I warn the customer that they may have to visit a dealer/specialist to get a proper bleed. So far so good, but I've only done a couple.

A thought just hit me on the dragging rear brake; make sure you're not over-filling the reservoir. Probably not the problem in this case, but worth mentioning just in case.

Even tho bike masters are better sealed than most cars, the rubber seal/bellows may be permeable so that some air is exchanging bringing in moisture. It might also come in through caliper seals, maybe even the hoses. The 'dirt' is more likely wear material, mostly the seals plus a little metal. Ever notice that the clutch fluid gets darker quicker? All this talk makes me wanna flush my systems.....but since they don't sell brake fluid in drums I'll just let it go. The only brake systems I've had get really rusty is on boat trailers. The master has no bellows, just an open breather, plus the brakes spend a fair bit of time under water, and in some cases the master gets plunged.

Perhaps it's a double edged sword argument, but I prefer the ability to flush the fluid and it remove all the water that's in suspension rather than hope there aren't drops of water sitting around eating away at stuff.

I think I remember now, the issue is that 5 can foam up when the ABS valves cycle rapidly.