superhawk996

I don't get it.

Why else would an old man put hot rod mufflers on it?

I didn't measure the rotors, but they looked fine. And there was no sign of warpage. I kinda recall the pads being on the low side, but that might be my other Bird.

And miles per naps, you're probably doing pretty well.

I've found my bikes napping a few times and got the "must lift it now!!!!" feeling for no good reason, especially the one that fell sometime during the night. The only real concern would be if it were laying at an angle where oil could start seeping past the rings, then hydrolock on startup. I don't know what the angle would have to be, guessing the top of the bike would have to be on the low side.

Put a LifeAlert on it so it can call for help.

I wonder what he uses for lube.

Yup, thinner oil will get around the screen blockage more easily. The thinned oil could have caused the damage to the guides leading to the blockage. It would seem reasonable that a lube problem would effect metal on metal parts more, but neglected oil has caused lots of chain guide damage in cars so overly thin oil might also. One of my customers found out the hard way to not put Amsoil's 25k mile oil to the test willy nilly. Fortunately it only needed the timing parts replaced. In the oil's defense, he probably went over the miles and never checked the level. And I think his engine was on their short list of "don't do 25k with this engine."

Every vehicle manual I've read that gives a separate oil recommendation for heavy duty use, consistent high speed use, or track use says to run a heavier weight oil. One example is the C7 Vette; 0-40 for the street, 15-50 track. Ford 6.7 powerstroke: 5-40 or 15-40 for normal use, 15-40 only for heavy use. It's in the manual and even stated on the fill cap. Drag racers often run lighter oils in the engine, trans, and diff. They never get the oil hot so it's fine, and probably better than a heavier oil. Lighter oil will probably be a power advantage all the way 'till it stops being able to prevent metal contact. It's amazing how much power it takes to pump thick oil. I think you were there when I let the smoke out of a 1/2" gear reduction drill motor priming the pumps on the new motors in the Wellcraft.

5-30 I think. I don't remember if he had a reason that thinner oil is better for hard use or just no reason against it. I didn't think that piggy-backing on Slapp's comment was going to become a shitting or I wouldn't have. I figured that after the peaceful exchanges and appeals to his knowledge he'd be over being so sensitive about me and be able to laugh it off. If it was my build thread I wouldn't have stopped, especially for a moron. Logic would dictate.....fuck, my moron is showing. Never mind.

Pretty much. No threats of violence this time around (yet), but all the other usual stuff. Cuban moron is too stupid try to educate...but only when I've challenged him. When I ask/comment about something he had no part in creating he'll answer, like he did earlier in this thread. When I question something he's done then I'm "too moron to bother trying." He likes using light weight oil for track duty because he knows more than everyone else and got pissy when I implied a connection between that and his fried track motor.

Yup, and there's at least one missing where it decided to nap at gas station....I think, maybe it was someone else's. And I think a front yard lawn nap.

Funny how the first person that shit on it garnered no attention, but when it's me you just can't resist. Your CMDS is showing.

I love that you go the distance for us to show the rarely captured scenes of Birds in hibernation. It's so pleasing to see them taking a well deserved proper nap.

Do you happen to have the Whitebird that went to me, then Carlos, then back to you? I seem to recall that the pads were getting on the thin side, but the rotors looked fine. I didn't measure them, but they didn't look to need replacing.

You always say that and it's never happened, you're wrong as usual, it's no surprise. "Never" being in reference to anything here, we call on each other for help with other stuff. Logically, an expert such as yourself would not let a Cuban moron get in the way of showing how much better you are by continuing on with showing your build process. Clearly you're just a weak little cunt that's afraid of being challenged and shown up by a moron. Fighting words in 3,2,1

Sorry man. I was looking forward to an update and just assumed he was busy with other stuff. Considering what a moron I am and that I've may times appealed to his knowledge I really didn't expect him to get butthurt so easily. My guess is that something went wrong on the build or he just lost interest otherwise he'd show how knowledgeable and great he is by continuing.

Super drunk Dave, funny. Ashely and I have several Daves so nicknames have been added on. Chino Dave, Retard Dave, Dave and Karen Dave, Drunk Dave, ....

Or the one he killed by 'racing' it on 5-30 oil. Or was it 0-20? Either way it doesn't matter, every professional knows that you're supposed to run lighter weight oil in road racing situations.

Lots of people successfully experiment. For example, I made some 30-30 loads using a 9mm Luger powder charge and the velocity matched the expectation. It's of no particular use for me, but it is for some people. It was just fun to do. I didn't have any .308 Norma Magnum brass so when the gun showed up so I made some from my .338WinMag brass that I have lots of. It's likely impossible to find a book load for that, but it seems to shoot just like the book loads I use while ignoring the brass portion of the recipes. I've substituted bullet types many times with no noticeable changes in velocity or pressure. A 30-30 hollow point bullet at .308NM velocity vaporizes watermelons. Some bullet types can make a big difference and could be a problem. I've interchanged rifle and pistol primers as well as magnum and standard primers just to test with no noticeable issues. There's potential for light strikes and primer blowouts, I didn't have any issues, but I'd only make batches of stuff like that if I were in dire need.

That's the opposite of my feeling as well as many others', but I've only done a little bit of shotgun loading. There's plenty of fuck around room in metallic reloading and lots of us do it. Mixing some powders seems like it should be safe with hulls and metallic reloading but 'everyone' says not to. I can't imagine a situation where I ever would. Red and Greed Dot have very different characteristics, I like Green more. Substituting primer brands does nearly nothing in pistol and rifle but can be a problem with shotgun, not an instant kaboom, but they can fall out. Mixing shot size should be safe within limits. With a few exceptions, mixing brass has no impact on safety. The capacity of some hulls is quite different than others and the pressures can vary wildly if they're used willy-nilly with the same other components, but probably not dangerous if your your loads are mid range.

I recently got rid of a bunch of cheapo 12ga. hulls after getting a bunch of AA's. If you don't care about them being 'premium' hulls any trap & skeet range is covered in them, some people also leave the premium stuff. The cheapos are generally referred to as 'non-reloadable', but they all reload. I believe 20ga. are more valuable than 12 so you should be able to trade or sell them pretty easily.

Yo, we aint workin cow cunts with a handful of bull jizz. Carlos is working with Yak jizz and I'm working with car jizz, normal coverage is usually enough.

So, you're saying that they fit like a glove? Non-OJ glove of course.

Make sure you only use Honda branded oil too, not some generic crap. 🙂 I used Motul 300V 10-40 last time. It's stupid $, but the shift feel is so great I might keep doing it. The oil looks and smells like no other, it's green and has a sweet fruity smell. Tastes different after use, but still ok. It does't mix with rum so I tossed it.