superhawk996

How bout a diver's weight belt? I've seen them on CL pretty cheap. Don't know how much weight you can fit on one, but a thought. Or wear a couple. Or a belt + a light bar might be the trick; same form you're used to without so much load on the back. The mixed brass was where I was kinda dumb, it didn't hit me 'till afterwords. Still surprised I didn't see pressure signs, maybe they weren't actually in danger territory or maybe I'm a bad brass reader. The hottest production ammo I've run is M856, the tracers. A 64gr. running 3300FPS, that surprised me. I only put one over the chrono so maybe it was a bad reading. My friend's slower ammo (also 55gr and a little under 3000FPS) seemed to run ok but I only tried a few. Here's where it gets really odd. I put 4 of his on top of about 15 of mine and it shot the whole mag without issue. I reloaded that same mag with my stuff and it was choking as usual so after firing a few I put a few of his on top and again it ate the whole mag without issue. Almost like his were fixing the gun temporarily. I can't find any logic to that and didn't wanna keep blowing his ammo with repeated tests, but it was interesting. Not definitive because once in a while it seems to get in a good mood and run my stuff, but interesting that it 'fixed' it twice in a row. Gun started the day spotlessly clean and cold, about 45 degrees out, and was malfunctioning from the start. The temp got up to 65 with clear skies and a strong warming sun, no obvious changes. The ejection pattern is 'correct' the few times I've checked, I usually run it with a brass catcher on, and I once put almost a full mag of brass in a camp chair. +1.

Best and most common used will be very different. There's the fat wallet guy who will swear by Amsoil but never puts more than a few thousand miles on his bikes before trading to another bike, then there's the cheap guys like me who also don't put enough miles on a bike; neither has suffered any engine lubrication afflicted loss. On the cheap side is 15-40 conventional diesel oils. I mostly used Rotella, but also used Delo because I had free access to it. The diesel oils have changed a lot in the recent years so I'm not sure if they're all that good any more. Further up the ladder is Mobil 1 15-50, altho it seems to be getting harder to find cheaply since Walmart appears to have stopped carrying it. Beyond that any of the motorcycle spec oils. I think the Mobile 1 0-40 oil might be a decent choice since it's available cheaply, but I haven't looked at the tests & specs to know if it would be a good choice for a bike. The carbed birds seem a little bit pickier to oil than most bike for smooth clutch action. I fight with oil choices a lot and have decided to not engage any more so I'd say to go with whichever motorcycle spec 10-40 oil is in your budget. There are a few people with 200,000+ miles on theirs, if you can find out what they use I'd go with that over anything I or anyone else suggests. If Carlos stops in on this: what did the guy use on his ludicrous mile CBR600? That bike's a good testament to lubrication. My Bird is due and I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy some brand name motorcycle spec synthetic. As cheap as I am, life's to short to loose sleep over a few $ worth of protection.

I can pull off a few unweighted squats. Maybe one weighted one if it's life & death. Backpack or other way to strap some weight on? Just a thought so that you're not hovering that weight over yourself and can use your arms to stabilize. Or just be lazy like the rest of us. My other though is to just hit all the muscles individually on your power rack, I'm not sure what that is but assume it's one of the 'all in one' type machines. I have one of those accumulating dust next to the reloader. I occasionally think I should get back to it but when I walk into the room I get distracted....or maybe I only walk into the room for the other purpose. After tearing the Colt almost completely apart I find nothing wrong other than a slight misalignment with the tube at the key. No more than some others I've checked, but it has worn down one side of the little hump on the end of the tube so I'm replacing it just to eliminate that possibility. I ran some loads up to the point they pretty much stopped gaining velocity, well past book max at .3 increments. Tho I didn't see any of the classic pressure signs people talk about, the cases seemed to possibly be bulging/sticking, they were increasingly scuffed about 1/3 of the way above the base. At 25.8gr it was running just shy of 3300FPS, dropped a bit at 26.1, went up to 3450ish at 26.4gr. and stayed about the same to 27.3gr. At 27.6 it was just shy of 3500 but I only fired one, figured it was time to quit. This was all running generic bulk 55gr. FMJs and mixed cases. The powder is 2230C data powder from Accurate. On the bottle it states to use 2230 data, Accurate's website states to use 2460 data. Way back I assumed load data would be black & white. Now I've seen so much contradictory info that I'm tempted to toss the book into a fire. Max .223 load on the bottle says 26gr. Max for 2230 and 2460 are around 24.5-25 depending on bullet type. 2230 and 2460 data for 5.56 is about a grain higher, the bottle doesn't state 5.56 data. What I was seeing with the velocity stalling and the scuffing of the cases made me think I might be pushing it so it seemed like a time to stop going up. The stroking was inconsistent with powder charge increase anyway so it was pointless other than to know whether I could load it to elephant gun power. My 16" DPMS upper worked with all the loads and the cases showed similar scuffing. I didn't get velocities from it because the chrono wasn't working right. I wish I'd been sighting in during the test to see what the accuracy did. I was mostly focused on velocity, function, and trying to make sure I could drive myself home. I doubt there's any way to load a .223 case with enough powder to blow up an AR but.

I"m working it right now. Sitting at the table with my legs up on the chair across from me, typing and lifting a rum & coke. Or I coulda just said bump. I have back issues and back when I cared I did squats in a doorway holding the frame. Feet a little bit back from the frame with my arms stretched forward and hanging from them if that makes sense. It worked for me, but back issues and postures are so different between people. I also have monkey length arms. And I'm reminded that I still have your measuring tools. I'm doing another batch of ammo soon and will check them just to see the differences between FL, SB, and neck sizing and get them back to you, they've been pretty much out of mind after the initial chamber checkings. The Colt continues to short stroke in spite of making some stupid loads so it's not a weak ammo issue. I've ordered a new gas tube and a clevis that fits the carry handle, it'll either run or be the most expensive ineffective boat anchor ever made. JK, I'll keep working with it 'till I figure out what's happening and have a few tests in mind.

Holly shit! I have skinny wrists for a guy, they're only about the diameter of the average cock.....I assume mine's average anyway.

The speedo bouncing could just be a cable problem. A tweaked cable that's spinning out of round because of wear/damage or it's just sticking, but could also be an issue at the speedo. I'd start with checking and maybe lubing the cable, maybe replace it if it's bad. With most vehicles you can pull the cable out of the sheath from the transmission/transfer case end and put it back in without a problem. If the cable is frayed then the sheath is probably also damaged and might need replacing, but a new cable will generally work pretty well for some time. The odometer dying was probably unrelated to the needle bounce that you're now seeing. I assume the gear that runs it took a dump, but have never had a Dodge speedo apart to know what to say to look for.

So 6.

They list one for your XX so no clue what's going on there. This device won't help for that, but if it makes you feel better then go with it.

Bike cops have been hit while running all their lights by people who couldn't see them too. If this thing works properly it could help reduce the chance of being rear ended. I think a flashing brake light would do much more than just a brake light that turns on earlier, they sell both types. I wouldn't bother installing the early on unit even if it were free, the light flasher maybe. Being that the bird has two brake lights I might wire one to the flasher and the other one normal.

Tallest I see are the 12ton at 30 1/8". They don't seem to have a "tall" version, they just get taller as they get bigger load ratings so the 6 ton is a bit shorter, then the 3ton. The specs are on their website. The price takes a huge jump going to the 12ton. My tall stands are a pair that I think are 6ton and a pair of massive fuckers that are 20-30 ton. It's raining so I ain't gonna go look. The lighter duty ones have more fine teeth than normal which is nice sometimes in trying to get something just right, the big boys have understandably coarse teeth and guessing they weight 30+ lb. ea. A cheap way to a tall stand is a block under a short one, I've used hunks of lumber many times. Never use a cinder block as I've seen people do, they can crumble with no warning.

Actually 5, one in stock for the next bike to show up.

I assume ground, tail, and brake wires in & out of the correct wires on the unit and it has 4 wires.

But ground isn't always black.

I got curious so I looked, they do offer one for your '02 XX so apparently Santa isn't good at the internet. Call or email them & ask if it's the same or if you can exchange it. Funny that '04 is the latest year XX they offer one for, either the bikes changed or they just don't know to list it for later years.

Lift the seat & take a look. Since they make it for the 1000 and not the bird I assume they're different unless the company just doesn't know that the plugs are the same. The chance that they'll produce a one-off unit for you without additional costs seems very unlikely, but worth a call. You could cut the plugs off and wire it up yourself, or have it done if you're not knowledgeable on crimping wire connections. I assume the company would provide you a wiring diagram so you know which wire on the unit goes to what.

I had the same reaction so I used my special powers and put gearbrake into my search bar. It detects any time you're slowing down without using the brakes and lights the brake light for you. When coming to a stop in traffic I tap the front brake lever a couple times before I need the brakes to help draw attention. I see this device as gimicky, but whatever floats one's boat.

Do you have a model # on them or a name I can search, curious about them. That's interesting; he was talking about a BMW, then a NOS XX, now a lift.....lotto would make some sense. Or maybe he's been saving up all these years and decided to say fuck it to retirement money.

If nobody can ID it for you you'll have to pull it off and see if it has two inlets and which one flows in what position, blow through them while turning the valve, or add some gas to test which position does what. It appears to have a P on the left which would be the prime position, allows flow with the engine off and no vacuum signal. If it's not a vacuum controlled valve then that's likely an R and should answer your question.

Yea, that's a bitch. The suggested rubber may do it. Or just a flat piece of rubber or maybe carpet under them. If it's really slick you could use a piece of rope, carpet, strap, or something under the ramp that's long enough to reach the back tires, or front tires if you're trying to back a front wheel drive car up them. Beware that anything narrow or flexible you put under the ramps might create a high spot of load on them. Probably a non-issue if you'r'e not loading them heavily, but do consider that. Another option is a piece of wood or pipe or something from the front of each ramp to a wall, or drill a hole in the concrete (if not post tensioned) and drop in a bolt as a stopper. The wood ramps I made work on concrete because they're stepped instead of a ramp so there's a small climb, then another so there's less push on them plus they have more traction surface to hold them in place. You can just use pieces of wood without nailing them together and stack as many as you need for the desired altitude. I nailed mine together because I carry them in my van for mobile service and wanted the convenience of one piece 'ramps'. Other than really low cars I find that two 2x6 is generally enough, but I'm thin & flexible. When I need a little more I put a 4x6 past them as a third bump up. For anything that doesn't require tire removal ramps are way better than a jack. In cases of low cars I sometimes use the wood ramps to gain space for getting a jack under a control arm or other front lift point instead of lifting by the body/frame.

Exactly. I just can't imagine he's working on cars enough, and probably shouldn't be working on cars enough, to justify a lift. A lift for me would be somewhat a waste too because I don't do well in that position of looking upward and working with my hands overhead, neck & shoulders unhappy. It would be great for brake jobs and some other stuff, but I've been doing that stuff on the ground for so long that I don't even think about it. I've been a mechanic all my life and only used a lift for the first few months of it. After that I've been mobile except for one shop that didn't have lifts because we only worked on big trucks, International truck dealership. I owned a drive on Rotary 2 post alignment lift for a while that I got dirt cheap at walmart, they were getting a bunch of new equipment and I bought all the old stuff; lift, tire mounters and balancers, freon recovery machines, etc. Truck loads of stuff and it was under $1000 for all, I made a killing reselling it. It was pretty much an ideal lift, drive on convenience with F&R rolling lifts to do tire stuff. Never installed it, but probably would have if I had a good spot to do it without having to pour a pad. Being a drive-on it would have allowed me to use a creeper for under car stuff if I didn't wanna stand under it. There are super tall jack stands, I own 4. I don't use them to get a car super high, I use them on stuff that's super lifted and need a tall stand to reach the frame. Ramps are great for a lot of stuff and they're what I usually use for oil changes, exhaust work, etc. When I just need a few extra inches I use my home-made ramps, couple pieces of 2X6 that are nailed together; they get used more than my real ramps or jacks.

Even an ounce of well water will completely wreck the whole system! JK. Your description of what you did didn't cover flushing out the cleaner, but if you did all's good. I drain my systems whenever the coolant looks shitty, usually only when I buy something neglected, then never again. So far so good.

I've been using a HF aluminum jack, the smallest one they sell which I think is 1.5 ton rated, for a few years now. Having to lift a floor jack in/out of the van multiple times a day I wanted something light. I've done all the stuff you're not supposed to do; over load it, lift on uneven ground, lift on dirt & rocks, etc. When the load is too heavy I stand on the handle. I bent it a little lifting a loaded 1ton work truck on a gravel driveway, jack sunk a bit on one side which tweaked it, but it still works. I recently replaced it with the newer version of the same jack that has the rapid pump feature, it's a little heavier but much nicer to use. I've put a Chinese automotive jack stand, guessing 3 ton rated, to the test with a semi tractor. After setting it on the jacks and shaking the truck around I lifted it again and dropped it on the stands, nothing happened. But go buy some Snap-on 100 ton rated stuff because you'll need it for that massive prius you might lift a couple times a decade. As for lifts: 2 post require thick concrete and special anchors and the posts often get in the way of opening the car doors, 4 post take up more space. Most are 220v. and require a high ceiling; height of the car body plus whatever height you want underneath. There's the smaller ones that lay flat on the ground, picture a motorcycle lift but wider, no installation and cheaper but don't lift as high as a normal lift. Then there's the old school in-ground lift; no concrete requirement and it can be recessed so it's out of the way, they can be had for nothing used but installation is a bitch. There's another type that'll lift one end or side of a car, basically a jack with a cross bar on it, heavy but portable and available in powered and manual. If you buy a real garage type lift it'll be a stupid waste of money, but if you want it and can afford it enjoy it. Don't bother checking with the law about installing it at your residence, installation requirements like clearance from a living space etc., nor whether your insurance co. will be ok with it so I can get it from you cheap later.

If you didn't open the drain(s) on the block or water flush it a few times you left cleaner in there.

Ford list: Mustangs: '73 notchback(current), 2 '84 SVOs, 95 Cobra, 95 GT convert, 80-something cheapo 4banger. Trucks: '88 E-350(current), 99 F-350(current), 80 F-250, 88 F-250, 89ish Ranger 4.0, '88 & '89 Broncos. Explorers: 91, 96, and 98(current). GF has an '02. And 2 Ford powered boats. Extremely likely that there are others not coming to mind. I've owned many brands: Nissan, Toyota, Datsun, Honda, Porsche, Volvo, Jaguar, Mazda, Jeep, Dodge, and very likely others. Not one Chevy that I can think of even just to flip. Not that I hate Chevy, just never had one appeal and drop into my lap. Vehicles I still think about and wish I still had: '78 or any other year CVCC Civic with manual choke, Datsun B210, Mustang SVO, Porsche 928, Jaguar S-Type R --somewhat in order of wish level.

Safe for all metals, rubber, plastic, gasket materials, sealants, etc. at 200+ degrees and won't froth up by the impeller? If so then have at it if you wish, but that residue isn't an issue. Was the thermostat stuck open? Edit: if you're gonna use that stuff I'd leave the thermostat out and install it after flushing, the flushing will be faster and safer.