superhawk996

Every Bird header I've paid attention to is tri-Y including the stocker.

You could probably pop a hanger or two off so it'll droop away from the body to paint it.

The little I've read says otherwise, but I guess it depends on where you're having wear.

Has anyone done a 520 conversion on the Bird? It's worth a little bit of performance and supposedly there are more sprocket options, with or without bling.

Paint is easily removed if you don't like it. What I think would be cool would be a black chrome kinda finish. In my theory if you mixed a small amount of black, or other color, into clear you could basically tint the SS instead of fully covering it. Another thought would be to color match it to the wheels. Keep in mind that it'll probably need to be hight heat paint. Another thought would be to chop the pipe and not have the tips sticking out.

Jalapeno infused from Olive Hill Farm to be specific, but they all work for different applications.

My Walmart stopped carrying the 15-50 long ago, sucks. I just realized I might be able to 'ship to store', I should look into that.

I assume you mean a nut with a 12mm head and not actually a 12mm nut? No metric hardware fits properly with sae nor vise-versa. Some will thread on, but will be loose or too tight and the thread pitch would be off. Nothing about that mount makes me think 12mm, 8mm looks about right. If you're looking for a nut with a 12mm head it's probably an 8mm nut which is very close to 5/16" which would generally have a 1/2" hex. Closest sae to 12 would be 1/2", 1/2" being closer to 13mm than 12mm. So you likely need an M8X1.25 nut, 1.25 being the most common thread pitch for M8 hardware and a very common size you can find anywhere.

Likely to be the test connector, but whether it is or not the cause the sooner it's addressed the better. Corrosion will slowly make its way through the wires and make it a much more difficult repair if you wait too long. If you have multiple fault codes that points to a bad test connector. Mine had several codes in memory when the test connector started showing signs of corrosion. Below is copy/pasted from the interwebs. Note: The service check connector that you short out to get the codes on mine isn't white as stated below, pretty sure it's brown. No idea if that's a mistake on the writer's part or if they are different colors on different years and he just didn't know that. The long/short flashes are well described below. If the fuel injection system ( FI ) warning light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the motorcycle is running, a fault has occurred in the fuel injection/ignition system. The engine control module ( ECM ) will store the relevant fault code in its memory and this code can be read as follows using the self-diagnostic mode of the ECM. While the engine is running and the motorcycle is being used, the FI light will come on and stay on. When the motorcycle is on its side stand and the is running below 5000 revs the FI light will flash, the pattern of the flashes indicating the code for the fault the ECM has identified.If the engine can be started, place the motorcycle on its side stand and then start the engine and allow it to idle. Whilst the engine is idling, observe the FI warning light on the instrument cluster.If the engine cannot be started, or to check for any stored fault codes even though the FI light is not illuminated, remove the seat to gain access to the fuel injectionsystem service check wiring connector, which is a white 3-pin ( 2 wire ) single sided connector inside the rubber boot close to the tail light.Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the outer terminals of the service check connector with an auxiliary piece of wire.With the terminals connected make sure the kill switch is in the run position then turn the ignition ON and observe the FI warning light.If there are no stored codes the FI light will come on and stay on.If there are stored fault codes, the FI light will flash.The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat. FAULT CODE SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE 1Engine runs normallyFaulty MAP sensor or wiring2Engine runs normallyFaulty MAP sensor / vacuum hose7Engine difficult to start at low temp.Faulty coolant temp. sensor or wiring8Poor throttle responseFaulty throttle position sensor or wiring9Engine runs normallyFaulty intake air temp. sensor or wiring10 ( see note 1)Engine runs poor at high altitudeFaulty atmospheric pressure sensor11engine operates normallyFaulty speed sensor or wiring12Engine does not startFaulty no. 1 fuel injector13Engine does not startFaulty no. 2 fuel injector14Engine does not startFaulty no. 3 fuel injector15Engine does not startFaulty no. 4 fuel injector18Engine does not startFaulty cam pulse gen.r or wiring19Engine does not startFaulty ignition pulse gen. or wiring20engine operates normallyFaulty EPROM in ECM25engine operates normallyFaulty knock sensor or wiringThe following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter.21engine operates normallyfaulty oxygen sensor23engine operates normallyFaulty oxygen sensor heat elementNote 1.code 10 is only on the 1999 to 2000 X and Y models

The beetle infestation was your perfect opportunity to X the Rid-X. Does the stuff attract beetles in the environment or are they a free bonus?

Total enclosure would turn it into an oven. It also might invite critters to take up residence and could cause humidity problems. I'd definitely cover the long side since it gets direct sun, and maybe some coverage on the ends if they face the sun. The clear coat started peeling on my friend's MH at about 12 years, it went from really nice to ugly as hell. Now that it's pretty much done peeling, which took several years, it just looks old & dull. It took a while to figure out why there were always bits of clear plastic laying around the MH.

And wet it so it shrinks, I think that was one of the issues with the glove fitment. Once I took the liner out of Terry's jacket it became slightly loose fitting; turns out I am less stout than a Granny But it still works very well. I like that it's connected to a really cool person and my first and only .org meat, I believe it's called West Coast Bash 2002. Great memories.

On the flip side, if OJ's attorneys did their magic on that jacket it might fit me.

I have a press, 10 ton should get you in.

I've only made one high speed run on a Bird, a borrowed '99. It wasn't my bike so I had no fucks to give. Actually, he asked me to do it so he could see, hear, & feel what it was like to have his bike fly past him as he stood on the side of the road. He also stated that if I didn't go by doing at least 180 I was a pussy and he wouldn't be happy (pissed might have been the word used). I think he'd maxed around 180-185 after a couple tries and removing his backpack. Now I gotta break from the speed story to say that when he first invited me to do this I thought he was fucking with me. Actually I first thought he was inviting me to take my 1982 100MPH speed machine with the 85MPH speedo for a run, yea no thanks, I've done it. When I realized he was possibly inviting me to take his bike I was like yea right...but maybe he's serious? I wanna take the ride, but there's no way that's what he's saying. This guy (seajay) was super anal about his bike. It lived in the garage under double covers and people walking through were directed away from it. He hit some kinda rodent which left a mark on the lower fairing and he bought a new one, buffing it back to a shine just wouldn't do. His riding ended after a chain cleaning incident removed some finger parts....I mentioned he was anal right? Anyway, I looked at my brother who knew him well, I'd just met the guy and all I knew of him was that touching his bike would lead to one's death, probably a slow one. Even my brother couldn't tell for sure if the offer was serious, but he seemed to think it was. As I threw a leg over I was still somewhat expecting him to say "GOTCHA SUCKER"! I turned the key.......nothing. Pushed the start button.......Still quiet. Clicked into first........holy shit, he ain't stopping me! Oh fuck, now I gotta do this and I don't know what's gonna be more difficult, not staining my leathers or not denting his tank with the massive erection. I'd never ridden a Bird other than an around the block kinda ride. I pushed the power a little on my way up the hill to the "starting line" just to get a feel-WOW, this ain't my 85HP Yamaha, but it was also much more solid feeling and confidence inspiring than that rickety ride with almost no brakes, crap suspension, and a turbo that came on when it felt like it. (I talk that shit but I miss that bike) So back to the speed run; IIRC the needle was on it's way to 175 as I neared the top of 5th gear. I'd lost track of what gear I was in, still getting over how different it was than the Seca. I wasn't sure if there was another gear but figured there should be so while holding full throttle I put some pressure on the shifter and gave the clutch a quick slip. The bike lunged and as excited as I had been to hit 175 that excitement was trumped right there, I also slightly shit myself that there was that much pull in it. Now I know I'm in for a fuckin ride! Somewhere in the mid-high 180's the speedo appeared to be coming to a halt when I decided to stretch my ass back rather than stay in the balled up position I'd been in and the needle started moving again. I don't recall what my speed was when I passed them, but I exceeded my mandated 180 so I knew my man card was safe. It was about that time that I thought I shoulda just taken all my gear off cuz if something bad happened it would hurt less to be naked than to have almost enough gear on. At 193 I realized that I was coming up on a curve, I wanted to stay in it and see if there was more speed to be had, but I let off. As the speed dropped under 175ish, not looking at the speedo any more, I felt like I was going slow enough to sit up; big mistake but I managed to pull myself back down and stay on the bike. I got down to non-ludicrous speed before the turn which lead to a bridge with a bump transition from asphalt to cement. It's been a long time so the details are probably a little off. Speeds were stock speedo indicated. A far as I know the bike was stock other than slip-ons (TwoBros I think) and the front tire size, I think it was a 90 series instead of 80. A couple years ago I realized that my memory of the incident was probably foggy because I'm pretty sure I was on the same road heading home from Prescott in my friend's Jeep and what was a right turn onto the bridge in my head on bike day was a left in the Jeep.

It wasn't selling well so it ended. There are many bikes, and other stuff, that gain appreciation long after they're gone from the showrooms. Past 170 isn't academic and how quickly I get there isn't either, but the combination of stuff the Bird has going for it is special.

I did similar to paul99 with mine. Having the tank off would be nice for the extra space, but not required. Do it when you reach a low fuel level or drain it to reduce the weight and not have any spill from the filler, supposed to be a perfect seal but I wouldn't risk it. There's also a chance the gas could hit the vent tube and cause an issue if it's full.

Yup. It's likely gonna be unbalanced between cylinders, the left will get more air than right, but at least the turbulence will be quenched by the core.

Not an oil expert, but this is what I think I know: Lawnmower oil, and I think the stuff originally used in VW, are non-detergent. Because there's no oil filter a non-detergent oil lets junk fall to the bottom of the case and stay there 'safely' away from recirculating. It's possible that gas might cause this accumulated stuff to go into suspension and be pumped through the engine and do rapid damage. Some lawn care motors have plastic parts that the gas may cause more damage to than metal parts. Then of course there's the simple direct action of thinning the oil resulting in lower viscosity and diluted lubrication ability, and most of these oils aren't all that great to start with. My 4 stroke lawn engines get whatever 15-40 diesel oil I have on hand and they get changed more often than most. My rule on them is to change it when it shows obvious color which always happens before it hits the add mark. The day I decide it's oil change time I do the chore at hand to get it hot then change it. A couple tips to simplify lawnmower oil care: I check the level before moving it that way I don't need to wipe the stick and recheck. The book way to drain the oil is a plug underneath which is a pain in the ass. My dipstick is in the left rear corner of the engine. I remove the stick, put a drain pan to the left of the mower and tilt it over on it's side to drain. The mower needs to be high enough above the pan to allow a far tilt and full drain so I either do it on the edge of the driveway with the pan lower or put a block of wood under the left side of the mower before tilting it. If you have an oil sucker that's even easier. As far as changing the FPR to a higher pressure one that'll richen the air/fuel mixture so consider whether you want that first.

Not in my experience. Gas isn't a good lubricant but I've seen many engines with gas, water, coolant, diesel diluted oil continue on without issues. I wouldn't do it on purpose, but I've never seen catastrophic damage from it without running long term that way.

I can't imagine the FPR would leak then stop leaking so that's unlikely. If an injector were stuck open and dripping you'd probably notice a missfire on startup from the flooded cylinder. Could be coming through the vapor recovery system.

I was ready to jump at it, but the misaligned 6 on the odo was a deal breaker. She is fuckin purdy tho.

Any reason you went with one from each? I assume if you ordered both from the same place you'd get a discount.

I strongly recommend getting rid of that big junction block and using crimp terminals, waterproof ones ideally. If there's any wires that are twisted together, looks like there might be, I'd put them into crimp terminals as well. Soldered wires are a bad idea unless they're well supported, movement/vibration can cause them to break. I assume one could keep the Honda connector salvaged from the old switch, permanently attach the Suzuki wires to it, then add crimp terminals for any extra wires. Since the DRL wire becomes an extra it could be used for the headlight flash so it sounds like the factory connector would have enough wires to do the job. I like those switching LEDs, never heard of them. BTW, there's no need to use clear lenses, all that does is allow the color change. I'm not sure which color would be more likely to add visibility/grab attention to the bike. If the clear is really bright it could cause blinding to others on the road like running with the high beam on. Tho many like to do this to make them be more visible, this makes it harder to judge your speed & distance so it can me more dangerous. Amber lenses should cut the brightness down some, whether good or bad.